istick 50 watt exploded
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I have a question for the istick folks... if you buy the full kit, with the cable and wallwart and 510/ego adapter... is that a 1A cable/wallwart? I bought my iStick just by itself, no kit, and Im using my .5A charging cables and wallwart; if the one that comes with the iStick is for 1A, then it would be worth it for me to buy the full kit for my next one. If it's not a 1A cable, then I'll just get another mod-only.
Andria
Andria
Hi, Andria! I only own iSticks 20 and 30--never needed 50 watts so I never got one. But I bought mine without chargers; I use the USB chargers that came with my two MVP 2 and I have an Apple (made in Japan) wall wart; Output 5v-1A. Never had a problem with this setup. I never leave my charging batteries unattended, I never charge overnight, and I always try to take them off the charge as soon as they are done. Those things can be dangerous, so I'm extra vigilant.
Having said that, I'm beginning to think that iSmoka should recall iStick 50--too many problems. And someone may eventually get hurt.
Not to be argumentative, but replaceable batteries are not much safer, really. I could post a few pictures of thermal runaways (in a ProVari), but that's off topic. Bottom line--batteries store energy>this energy is always trying to escape>sometimes it finds a way.
Heck, even Boeing had problems with lithium batteries. Big problems, as I recall.
You are 100% right when you say this. Actually non replaceable batteries should be safer if the electronics can do proper readings and have good cut off stages. The reason I said what I did is because I invested in a charger with features like slow initial charging to revive fully drained batteries, and also have a .25 amp charge rate and .5 and 1, and good cut off when reaching the capacity of full charge. Basically I've spoiled myself with safegaurds that created illusions, while also using reliable Sony Vtc 4 batteries with good track record.Not to be argumentative, but replaceable batteries are not much safer, really. I could post a few pictures of thermal runaways (in a ProVari), but that's off topic. Bottom line--batteries store energy>this energy is always trying to escape>sometimes it finds a way.
Heck, even Boeing had problems with lithium batteries. Big problems, as I recall.
I'm nervous about using mine now! when I charge with the usb and either aspire or motorala wall receptacle, the istick doesn't get hot but the wall charger does. I just mailed another one back to the vendor yesterday as the button would stick in on the bottom and keep firing.
And for those thinking removable batteries are superior- someone posted yesterday that Nitecore has a recall out on a charger of theirs.
At most, these recalls are usually only 5-10% effective.
At most, these recalls are usually only 5-10% effective.
Nitecore doesn't have a recall from what I've read. The problem is counterfeit nitecore chargers.
Counterfeit Nitecore D4 Digi Charger - UPDATED 28/04/2015 Recall | Electrical Safety First
Also by having removable batteries you decide what cell you use in your device. You can choose to use reputable companies like AW, Panasonic, Sony, Samsung off the top of my head or roll the dice with something else. Buying enclosed battery devices you have zero control over what cell the company chooses to use.
Also having a good charger and removable batteries will alert you to when a cell is going bad and let you take it out of rotation.
Andria, the charger that comes with the iStick is a 1 amp rated charger. I have been using that to charge my iStick 50 (and the iStick 30 before I PIF'ed it) and have had no problems with it at all. Neither the charger nor the iStick got warm when recharging. IMO, the failure has to do with the circuitry inside it which controls the charging. Instead of stepping down the charger into trickle charge mode as it nears capacity and shutting off the charging when full, it continued charging. We don't know if the circuitry was faulty from the factory or if it was damaged some how.
FWIW, just in yesterday's news, a student's cell phone burst into flames in their locker at some school.
Hey Dave...always good to see your posts.
My few weeks old 50w may be newer as well as I waited for restock. The only irregularity I have noticed is the occasional " the VV/VW dance." Does yours ever exhibit this?
I've got one of the first that dances, but not as much as it used to. It has also quit turning off by itself. I guess I have to say it's improving 
Right, I never charge unattended either, after viewing some of the pics and vids posted here at ECF. *shudder*
The only USB-to-micro-USB's and wallwarts that I have came with a) my eRoll, and b) my iTaste vv3, and those being such low-power devices, I'm thinking the cables only accommodate .5A -- that's why I was wondering if the one that comes with the iStick30 might be a 1A cable and/or wallwart -- I don't actually know which part selects the proper charging amperage, but I'm pretty sure that whatever I have, being for lower-power devices, probably only goes up to .5A.
Andria
Ok, that's good to know; I had told my husband about all this, with the 1A charging, and that the next one I buy, I would most likely get the full kit. Already got a 510/ego adapter, but never hurts to have a couple, and that higher amperage charging would sure get it charged faster.
Andria
I just ordered the eleaf Istick 50W. Is this a common problem, should I be afraid here to use this?
Next question, same order eleaf Istick 50W kit, does it come with the wall charger or will it come with charger that plugs into my computer? Ordered from vaperoyalty.
The problems can be serious. Thus, somewhat high profile. It's not clear what the frequency of serious problems are though it seems quite a few have the minor quirk of changing between Voltage and Wattage on the display. It may be a small percentage that have serious failure problems, but percentages are not known.
Whether or not you get the wall charger or a cable depends on what you bought. Often those sold with a charger, cable and Ego adaptor are referred to as a 'full kit.' The full kits cost a bit more than the mod only. There are variants that include a cable only, I believe. Check your sales receipt (email?) and the listings on the site if you bought online.
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