iPV4 Exploded
- Thread starter Kevin O'Brien
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
-
- Tags
- explode ipv4 pioneer 4 you
- Status
Kevin.......... While I wasn't there and don't have all the facts, I have enough facts that indicate what the problem is.......... I didn't read this entire thread yet, so others may have already mentioned something similar, but what you have here is a situation where you are using batteries that are rated too low. You say you were using a low ohm build and at a high wattage. This means that there is a very large current flow and this large amount of current flow cannot be supplied by those small batteries. The coils will "try" to draw that amount of current out of your batteries but it can't because those particular batteries are not designed to have that much current flow through them. As a consequence the battery will keep getting hotter and hotter until it vents and malfunctions. You need to get batteries that have a larger continuous current rating (in amperes).
Sorry this happened to you and for the destruction of your mod. But, I am relieved that you did not get injured.
Sorry this happened to you and for the destruction of your mod. But, I am relieved that you did not get injured.
The IPV 4's batteries are in series so yes you should be using 30 amp batteries especially with the new update to 120 watts. Do you have any pics of the damage it did or do you still have anything that was exposed to the fire? It might help in determining what happened... You said you had a hole in your comforter but when a battery vents it shoots out gas & molten material at around 1000° C. So if the battery did indeed vent I would be inclined to think there would be more than just a hole in the comforter. When a battery vents it looks more like an illegal firework than just a flame or campfire.
I shipped the MOD back so I dont have that to take a pic. I have the battery still at home, or whatever is left of it. When it vented it was still half in the MOD, half out. Which is why i wrapped the whole thing up incase of fire / explosion.
I just have to say that I'm glad you're ok and that I would've needed to change my pants if that happened to me!!
This is my standard policy regarding batteries and sub-ohm vaping:
These are re-wrapped cells. MXJO doesn't manufacture their own cells. What original cell CXJO uses is anyone's guess. I choose to use only original manufacturers' batteries: Sony, Samsung, LG, Panasonic, AW imr ... to be certain I'm getting what I paid for and getting a known high quality cell with reputable specifications.
Everyone is free to set their own parameters, and I can only say what mine are. I try to never exceed 50% of the CDR (continuous discharge rating) of a fully charged battery (4.2v). So with a 10 amp battery, that 50% would be 5 amps continuous -- a 5.2 amp draw from a 0.8 ohm coil).
You may be placing a lot of faith in a cheap ohm reader's ability to making a precise and accurate reading to a tenth or hundredth of an ohm. The most accurate and recently calibrated digital multimeters can cost over $1000.
A loose post screw holding your coil on your RBA can drastically lower your coil resistance by as much as 0.5 ohms (from personal experience).
At the time of this writing (July 2015), there are no mod batteries that can deliver more than 30 amp CDR. Any advertisement of over 30 amps is either marketing hype or a pulse discharge rating (a spec we choose not to use).
The batteries we have available can be quite safe if you use the right batteries for the right application and do not abuse them beyond their recommended amp limit. Most bad battery incidents result from user error, wrong calculations, ignoring safe battery practices, or using a mod without adequate vent holes for a battery which goes into thermal runaway.
A battery venting in thermal runaway will release extremely hot gas, toxic chemicals, and rarely flames. Once this chemical reaction begins, there is no stopping it. The gas can build up very quickly inside a mod, and if there is inadequate venting the mod becomes a little pipe bomb.
Coil amp draw from Ohm's Law calculations:
1.0 ohm = 4.2 amp draw
0.9 ohm = 4.6 amp draw
0.8 ohm = 5.2 amp draw
0.7 ohms = 6 amp draw
0.6 ohms = 7 amp draw
0.5 ohms = 8.4 amp draw
0.4 ohms = 10.5 amp draw
0.3 ohms = 14.0 amp draw
0.2 ohms = 21.0 amp draw
0.1 ohms = 42.0 amp draw
0.0 ohms = dead short = battery goes into thermal runaway
The reason that I place a 50% limit is because as a battery ages the mAh of the battery degrades, as the mAh degrades so does the batteries C rating (amp limit). So down the road, your 20A battery may only be a 10A battery, a 30A battery only a 15A battery, and so on.1.0 ohm = 4.2 amp draw
0.9 ohm = 4.6 amp draw
0.8 ohm = 5.2 amp draw
0.7 ohms = 6 amp draw
0.6 ohms = 7 amp draw
0.5 ohms = 8.4 amp draw
0.4 ohms = 10.5 amp draw
0.3 ohms = 14.0 amp draw
0.2 ohms = 21.0 amp draw
0.1 ohms = 42.0 amp draw
0.0 ohms = dead short = battery goes into thermal runaway
You may be placing a lot of faith in a cheap ohm reader's ability to making a precise and accurate reading to a tenth or hundredth of an ohm. The most accurate and recently calibrated digital multimeters can cost over $1000.
A loose post screw holding your coil on your RBA can drastically lower your coil resistance by as much as 0.5 ohms (from personal experience).
At the time of this writing (July 2015), there are no mod batteries that can deliver more than 30 amp CDR. Any advertisement of over 30 amps is either marketing hype or a pulse discharge rating (a spec we choose not to use).
The batteries we have available can be quite safe if you use the right batteries for the right application and do not abuse them beyond their recommended amp limit. Most bad battery incidents result from user error, wrong calculations, ignoring safe battery practices, or using a mod without adequate vent holes for a battery which goes into thermal runaway.
A battery venting in thermal runaway will release extremely hot gas, toxic chemicals, and rarely flames. Once this chemical reaction begins, there is no stopping it. The gas can build up very quickly inside a mod, and if there is inadequate venting the mod becomes a little pipe bomb.
Any build below 0.2 ohms is above spec for ANY battery currently on the market.
These are re-wrapped cells. MXJO doesn't manufacture their own cells. What original cell CXJO uses is anyone's guess. I choose to use only original manufacturers' batteries: Sony, Samsung, LG, Panasonic, AW imr ... to be certain I'm getting what I paid for and getting a known high quality cell with reputable specifications.
Last edited:
A lot of this depends on which Li-Ion chemistry the battery was made from. Each has a different temperature at which thermal runaway will start and each has a different temperature of reaction, i.e., how hot it gets. This temperature of reaction determines whether the battery ignites or not as otherwise it's just hot expanding gas and, possibly, battery bits if it "disassembles" (yup, that's actually a technical term for one of the severity levels for something like this).
IMR = highest thermal runaway threshold, lower temperature of reaction, rarely flames/sparks.
INR/NCR/NMC = lower thermal runaway threshold, higher temperature of reaction, chance of flames/sparks.
ICR = lowest thermal runaway threshold, highest temperature of reaction, usually flames/sparks.
Last edited:
Any idea where LiPo batteries fall into this scheme? You know, the internal batteries used in iSticks, MVP's, eGo batteries and remote control cars?
My guess would be they have the same volatile characteristics as an ICR.
Last edited:
Yup, same basic chemistry for ICR and LiPo...lithium-cobalt. Different battery construction, different additives and/or separator material, but same LiCoO2 cathode material. I've always thought of ICR and LiPo as hard shell and soft shell versions of the same basic battery.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
- Locked
