JoyeTech eGo 18650 Battery Mod

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Nic-holio

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Just a quick update - while looking for the direct product link at Liberty Flights to give someone, I noticed they say this mod is regulated for a constant 3.5V output like other Joye ego's. Just wanted to mention it since my review suggests it is probably 3.3V.

Maybe if I report my first post the mods could make it where I can edit my OP and fix that.

Nic-holio

EDIT: Nevermind, another reviewer (with a lot more experience than me) says it holds a constant 3.3V output. I'm just going to leave this as-is.
 
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Nic-holio

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So, my SmokTech 1.25 Ohm Dual Coil 510 XL Cartomizers arrived from Clouds of Vapor today. Darn post office sat on them for 2 days after they left Raleigh...

Anyway, I don't have my ACTv4's yet, but I thought, "Hey, I could go ahead and fill up one of these cartomizers and try it out. Might as well try it and make sure it's going to work out with this JoyeTech 18650 Mod before I go the trouble to punch a hole in the carto, put it in a tank, and fill the tank up."

This is the first time I've ever filled up a 510-sized cartomizer. Wow. It is a lot easier to fill up an EMDCC. :)

Anyway, the good news is it works GREAT. The regulator doesn't kick in and cut off the power, and I'm not feeling any unexpected "warmth" on the battery. No weird blink patterns on the button or anything. Just a happy wet carto crackling noise and significantly warmer vape!! (than on my EMDCC's that we've been using since we started vaping).

Reminder: I'm using AW IMR high-drain batteries.

The Super T Widemouth 510 T-tip fits a bit loosely on the SmokTech 510 DCC's, compared to how they fit on the Boge 510 SR cartos I stocked up on for the ProVari. But that's just a side note, I can probably fix this with a little bigger O-ring.

The only significant drawback I've seen is, it's a little trickier to fill up the carto. Being 510 size, you have to fill it more often - well of course unless you have it in a tank. But it's easy to overfill, I guess because of the smaller diameter. Even at a leisurely dripping pace, by the time you see that the filler is truly saturated, it starts dribbling out the bottom. :)

But overall, the 1.25 DCC's are a success for me on this mod. Glad to know these cartos will work - I'll be able to enjoy better vape with this while I wait to order a ProVari. I will probably wait until I get my ACTv4's before I use these 1.25 DCC's much more. Refilling these little cartos would be sort of a frequent hassle. Although it would be easier with these particular drip tips.

Cheers,
Nic-holio
 
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Andy Thatcher

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I have cut down to one a day from 20+.

Did that pretty much as soon as I got the Ego C. Upping the nic this week, well once the deliveries come in, and that should cut that one out.

Good luck with the Provari. Been looking at the Buzz very hard but I am good at the moment. My issue is finding the right juice at the moment rather than hardware once that is done then the nagging will come along lol
 

Nic-holio

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I hear ya. When I started off, I spent a lot of time reading here on ECF where folks recommended trying several different liquids when starting off to find some you like. Seems to be pretty good advice. Then I spent some time reading the reviews people had posted on Mad Vapes' e-liquids to try to find several to try that most people liked. (One of the guys at work recommended Mad Vapes as a really good vendor here in NC). So I ordered 6 different flavors in smaller quantities (10ml bottles), plus the kit came with one also. Ended up liking most of them and have re-ordered 3-4 of those flavors since.
 

ITPython

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Great review! I have had one of these units for a few weeks but still liked reading what you had to say about it!

So far I am pleased with my Joye 18560 mod, it's big, yes, but that is petty much unavoidable if you want the battery capacity. I have a spare eGo-T 650 mAh battery laying around in case I need to have a smaller, or more conveniently carried, unit for whatever reason. But so far this has been what I have been using exclusively.

I carry mine around (unloaded, with my carto/tank in a separate pocket/case) using a 4sevens flashlight holster on my belt that I got with one of my flashlights a while back, the holster itself is a bit too small (since it was designed for a 4sevens Quark 123, which is a very small flashlight) but I have added some adhesive hook-and-loop to extend the reach of the top Velcro flap.

It worked great for a little while, but now the adhesive for the hook-and-loop came off and makes the holster much less convenient to use. I am thinking about getting a spare 4sevens Quark 123x2 holster, as those are longer but have the same diameter dimensions as the Quark 123 holster (which I know fits the diameter eGo 18650 mod). In case you are interested, here is the holster that shoudl fit perfectly Quark 123² Holster 4Sevens.Com I'm sure there is much better holsters out there (like ones that can be removed from the belt without having to completely remove the belt) but it would get the job done, and for $8 with free shipping, it's a decent deal. It's a slightly tight fit, but it does fit thanks to the elastic band that is in the 4sevens holster.

Either way, if you search for a flashlight holster, you will be much more likely to find something that fits this 18650 mod, as the size is pretty much identical to the size of most flashlights.


As for the issue of not having a vent, I have to admit this had got me worried, then I remembered that every flashlight out there that uses Li-ion cells (such as 18650's) are all completely water-tight sealed with no vents, and they draw a lot of current as well.

Now of course you aren't holding the flashlight in your mouth (at least not all the time ;)) but based on that I am now much more confident that there is no reason to worry too much about having no vents (as long as you are using good batteries that is!). But even then, you just never know if a battery, even a good high quality one, will go haywire. But I guess that's just life, you take risks and you accept or deny them based on how risky the situation is. In this case, and because flashlights have been doing this for who knows how long with limited 'pipe bomb' occurrences in regards to li-ion batteries (I'm sure it has happened, but probably very rare), I feel a little better that there is no vent on this thing. And even safer because I am using AW protected batteries.


As for current draw, well just use ohms law to figure that one out. If this device is known to be regulated 3.3v, than all you have to do is measure the carto's resistance and do a bit of math. For example, my carto measures at 2.4ohms, so because of the DMM's variances, its likely about 2.3ohms. I = V/R, so 3.3v/2.3ohm = 1.43A :2cool: Using a DMM to measure a cartos resistance is easy too.

Now with that said, I did some of my own measuring. The atty in my carto is sucking down 1.43A when in use, now how does this compare to other high-drain devices such as a flashlight? Well I just grabbed my Zebralight SC600w, set it on it's highest mode and did a tail-cap current draw test with my DMM. My flashlight in its highest mode is drawing a whopping 2.89A @ 4.0V! :blink: So that's 11.56 watts.

Compared to the 1.43A the atty in my carto is drawing @ 3.3V (4.72W), I feel much safer using it now, as my flashlight consumes 2.89A @ 11.56W on a AW 18650 protected 2900mAh battery without issue, so my eGo drawing 1.43A @ 4.72W on the same would be almost nill in comparison in terms of over-driving amperage from the battery (safety wise).

I believe protected batteries are generally rated at a 2C max discharge rate (at least AW's are), so my AW 2900mAh is rated to safely discharge at a maximum of 5.8A, which is well within the safe range of what attys are drawing (at least with my LR Boge cartos @ 3.3v). Heck, I have actually been using two 17670's in my eGo 18650 mod exclusively, and those are rated at 1600mAh. So with my carto drawing 1.43A it's still below a 1C discharge (which is actually a nice decent and safe discharge rate).

Really the only other thing I worry about with this device is the circuitry, I have no idea what is going on in there and can only hope it is doing things in a safe manner. But this is also the other benefit of using protected high quality batteries, as the protection circuit will trip if a short occurs (among other things), so this adds an additional layer of safety in case something goes horribly wrong or malfunctions. Using an IMR, while it does use 'safer' chemistry, doesn't have the advantage of a separate protection circuit (although they do have thermal protection). So you have to rely 100% on the device for that.

I personally wouldn't want to use a unprotected IMR in this eGo 18650 mod, just in case. However due to all the insane safety that's in the Provari, I would have no issues at all using a unprotected IMR AW on that kind of setup, because the device itself is designed to be very smart and something you can trust and rely on.

But still, at a 2C discharge rate with protected batteries, you would be hard pressed to exceed 6.2A using AW's 3100mAh 18650 in a Provari. Even ramping the Provari voltage to 6V and using a LR carto (lets say are at 2ohm) that is still just 3A. AW's IMR's can handle an 8C discharge rate, which is absolutely insane. If you are trying to push 12.8A (1600mAh x 8) through a carto/atty, then you have other things to worry about! :shock:


But I suppose I have gotten a tad off topic in regards to the eGo 18650 mod. :oops:

Aside from all that, the unit works very well for me, and once I get a better holster it should be very easy to lug around with me when I am away from the home. I have been using it for a few weeks now, and the switch seems to have actually gotten better! Battery life is amazing, even using 1600mAh 17670's I can get two days use out of it with pretty much solid vapign when I am home. Although I like to charge at the days end because li-ions like small top-off charges rather than draining them completely then charging.


Anywho, here is a pic of my eGo 18650 mod with a Smoktech shorty cone, and a J-tank (got some Halo Malibu in there, not too bad!). And also my Zebralight SC600w (645 lumen LED 18650 flashlight in neutral white = awesome!)

91503831.jpg




Hope somebody enjoys reading all that, cause it took a while to write it! :2cool:

Stay safe and keep vaping!
 

Nic-holio

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I carry mine around (unloaded, with my carto/tank in a separate pocket/case) using a 4sevens flashlight holster on my belt that I got with one of my flashlights a while back, the holster itself is a bit too small (since it was designed for a 4sevens Quark 123, which is a very small flashlight) but I have added some adhesive hook-and-loop to extend the reach of the top Velcro flap.

Hi ITPython,

I've been thinking about some kind of holster setup as well, although I will probably wait until I have my Provari to look for best fitting one. It's getting warmer now and without a jacket with big field jacket-type pockets to put my vaporware in, I'll need something. I saw some other folks talking about using flashlight holsters too, this seems like it may be a good idea to investigate. Like you, I'd probably want something that can be detached from the belt completely also.

As for current draw, well just use ohms law to figure that one out. If this device is known to be regulated 3.3v, than all you have to do is measure the carto's resistance and do a bit of math. For example, my carto measures at 2.4ohms, so because of the DMM's variances, its likely about 2.3ohms. I = V/R, so 3.3v/2.3ohm = 1.43A :2cool: Using a DMM to measure a cartos resistance is easy too.

Yeah, unfortunately what the regulator actually DOES regulate the output at is a mystery to me as of yet. JoyeTech has not replied to my inquiry (posted earlier in the thread) so I'm having to go by what the vendors who are saying anything at all are saying.

I believe protected batteries are generally rated at a 2C max discharge rate (at least AW's are), so my AW 2900mAh is rated to safely discharge at a maximum of 5.8A, which is well within the safe range of what attys are drawing (at least with my LR Boge cartos @ 3.3v). Heck, I have actually been using two 17670's in my eGo 18650 mod exclusively, and those are rated at 1600mAh. So with my carto drawing 1.43A it's still below a 1C discharge (which is actually a nice decent and safe discharge rate).

Well the max discharge rate may even differ between models of the same brand. But there's also the issue of the protection circuit on protected cells - the cells may be able to _handle_ a discharge rate of 2C or more but if the protection kicks in before that happens.... eh, well, I don't know what the AW protected ones limit the discharge at. You may be right. I saw some specs somewhere here on ECF (or at least linked from a post here) when I was researching 18650 performance etc.

Really the only other thing I worry about with this device is the circuitry, I have no idea what is going on in there and can only hope it is doing things in a safe manner.

Well I can personally vouch that they have short circuit protection after my adventures this past weekend with a 510 shorty connector (already documented elsewhere on forums). If you "crush" the center pin into the 510 thread base it shorts the switch, and when you press the button it quickly flashes once for about a 1/4 of second and then goes out, and until you clear the short it will not function.

But this is also the other benefit of using protected high quality batteries, as the protection circuit will trip if a short occurs (among other things), so this adds an additional layer of safety in case something goes horribly wrong or malfunctions. Using an IMR, while it does use 'safer' chemistry, doesn't have the advantage of a separate protection circuit (although they do have thermal protection). So you have to rely 100% on the device for that.

I wasn't aware that AW IMR have ANY protection, even thermal protection. Where did you read this?




I have made a few interesting little discoveries about this Joyetech 18650 mod in the past week, which I will go into some detail about in a further post and will have some pictures to share as well. Describing it is one thing, but pictures will really help tell "the story".

I already described one of these discoveries above - that it definitely has short circuit protection. That is a plus.

The short version of the rest of it is, the design/implementation of a center pin on these is not particularly impressive. It will not take being moved around or "crushed" (pushed down to the bottom) and "gently prying it back up" very well and there is basically nothing underneath it to really resist the center pin being pushed down either. This is especially bad when the center pin is so "high up" in the connector. You need to be VERY careful with any 510 devices you screw into this eGo connector, when replacement switches are going for $12 and up at anywhere us regular folks are likely to go for a replacement in a hurry.

More on this soon.
 
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Nic-holio

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also, it the tube just a tube that could be replaced with a piece of pipe and a spring?

well, if you feel like messing with threading that pipe with whatever (metric, no doubt) threads the tubes on these have and all that. The tubes are cheap. Especially if you order one from a distributor (though you might be waiting a while if you order from one of the distributors that has these at a really good price).

And you won't have that special genuine JoyeTech logo on a soft-grip on the outside of the tube either. :)

OK I'm being a little facetious here. I am amused a bit after my experience last weekend at how much effort JoyeTech goes to, even with authorized JoyeTech dealers, to push the whole GENUINE JoyeTech spiel, even to the point that they have a wall of shame where they list people selling "knockoffs" - and in at least one case I know of a vendor who *IS* an authorized JoyeTech dealer was listed on their wall of shame page simply because they sell other brands too (not just JoyeTech) and had to have some words with them about getting his website un-blackballed. They are really pushy about brand apparently and would also (apparently) really prefer that you don't sell anybody else's stuff. Unless maybe you have a big flashing banner on the page saying "hey just so you know, this is not a genuine Joyetech product".

And then I find out how the center pin "works" on this 18650 mod control switch of theirs. It really puts it into perspective.

You might be one of those guys that likes to tinker with stuff just for the experience or the fun of it. I can identify with that. I'm probably going to have a go at "modding" (pronounced FIXING) my JoyeTech control switch so that it has a reliable center pin - if I can get the "cover plate" off of the bottom of the switch to get to the inside without destroying it - because I can't see tossing what seems to be an otherwise decent $13 switch because the center pin is only held by a flimsy, expendable rubber boot and popped out.

But I digress. :)

I'll tell the whole story with some pics sometime in the next few days.

Nic-holio
 

Penru

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Boy do you have my number... I was the kid in school who was always tearing apart pens (still do when I am board...) so if you want to sell me the broken switch for a couple bucks...

well, if you feel like messing with threading that pipe with whatever (metric, no doubt) threads the tubes on these have and all that. The tubes are cheap. Especially if you order one from a distributor (though you might be waiting a while if you order from one of the distributors that has these at a really good price).

And you won't have that special genuine JoyeTech logo on a soft-grip on the outside of the tube either. :)

OK I'm being a little facetious here. I am amused a bit after my experience last weekend at how much effort JoyeTech goes to, even with authorized JoyeTech dealers, to push the whole GENUINE JoyeTech spiel, even to the point that they have a wall of shame where they list people selling "knockoffs" - and in at least one case I know of a vendor who *IS* an authorized JoyeTech dealer was listed on their wall of shame page simply because they sell other brands too (not just JoyeTech) and had to have some words with them about getting his website un-blackballed. They are really pushy about brand apparently and would also (apparently) really prefer that you don't sell anybody else's stuff. Unless maybe you have a big flashing banner on the page saying "hey just so you know, this is not a genuine Joyetech product".

And then I find out how the center pin "works" on this 18650 mod control switch of theirs. It really puts it into perspective.

You might be one of those guys that likes to tinker with stuff just for the experience or the fun of it. I can identify with that. I'm probably going to have a go at "modding" (pronounced FIXING) my JoyeTech control switch so that it has a reliable center pin - if I can get the "cover plate" off of the bottom of the switch to get to the inside without destroying it - because I can't see tossing what seems to be an otherwise decent $13 switch because the center pin is only held by a flimsy, expendable rubber boot and popped out.

But I digress. :)

I'll tell the whole story with some pics sometime in the next few days.

Nic-holio
 

Semiretired

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There are two potential methods to fix the cross threading. One is to take it to a shop and they can fix it - might charge you more than what a new one will cost. The other is to find a hardened steel bolt and nut that have the same thread patterns as the tube - since the bolt is hardened steel and the tube is aluminum it will either recut / fix the threads or ruin them forever. If you are real careful it is fixable, but it depends upon how handy you are and if you have the necessary tools available...
 

Nic-holio

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Well, something else I have run into....

You know, I used to have a much better opinion of these......

Does anybody else have a problem with the button "cutting out" on them? By "cutting out" on me, I mean, I push the button in and the light flickers and sometimes goes completely off. And so does the cartomizer, ie when the light goes out it stops vaporizing. But then in a second or so (this varies) it comes back on and you start hearing the sizzle etc. again.

Both of my replacement switches do it, one more than the other. It doesn't do it every time with either of them. I really suspect poor solder connections but I don't know what kind of connections there are on the inside. I haven't tried opening up the first one I bought yet (the one that the center pin popped out on).

I guess I need to get up with Liberty Flights and ask them how I can go about getting ones that DON'T have this problem. I am willing to BUY two more as long as they aren't DUDS like these two, and as long as they will refund/credit me back for the first two. But considering I've had probs with 2 out of 3 of these I am not willing to risk just blindly ordering 2 more.

EDIT: I've asked Liberty Flights to work with me to get me two that have been TESTED and work properly every time you push the button. Still waiting for a response.......

Can we say "Quality Control", boys and girls? :(
 
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