Mike n Tibs DNA Mods!

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awsum140

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I made some major progress today despite too many other things to do. Got the buttons milled down, added clamps to the top rail to make sure the board sled doesn't move in any direction, found out I don't have enough room for the balance connector, converted the balance connector into a wired connector.

I still need to file flats on the buttons and add cleats to keep them from rotating. I also need to add two cleats to at as a battery retainer, I'm using magnets on the case and want to be absolutely sure it can't fall out accidentally.

Completed rail supports for the board sled -


Another view of the rail system -


A test assembly to make sure it all fits -
 

bilboda

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Hotcig stole my idea that I stole from innokin. I was thinking 3D printed boxes, smaller for the chip and 510 and various sizes for different batteries
Hot-New-Products-for-2015-hotcig-200w.jpg
 

Phone Guy

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Hotcig stole my idea that I stole from Innokin. I was thinking 3D printed boxes, smaller for the chip and 510 and various sizes for different batteries
Hot-New-Products-for-2015-hotcig-200w.jpg
I seriously wish I could draw in cad and design 3d files. I think that would be so cool. :(
 
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bilboda

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BlueridgeDog

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laurie9300

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Nice. I too have a strain relief loop for the 510. Yours seems really long. I was curious if mine was making an impact on performance.
Thanks BRD! I tried to make the connections shorter originally, but my 510 is basically sitting right on top of the atty out pads, so i needed more length. I'm sure the v drop through this massive 12 gauge is minimal.
 
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vapealone

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I have decided to build a Triple Li-Ion DNA. Or at least, try to build:)
Unfortunately, it has become obvious that I couldn't use any stock battery connector due to space limitation (that I have set:lol: )
So, I need to make or get made the connectors myself.
The only question is the material and I could use some expert advise here.
ATM I have 3 (2.5 options) and some thoughts:
  • Pure copper rod for the connectors and 5 x 0.75mm flat wire for the bars).
+ low resistivity
+the quantity of materials I need to buy would leave room for some trial and error
- material cost
-corrosion???
-aesthetic of the end result (well, I got limitations both skills and tool wise)​
  • 3D printed Brass (15% zinc, 5% tin, and 80% copper)
+aesthetic
+easy to make :lol:
~ probably cheaper than copper but still pricey
-relatively higher resistance (though, I can design quite thick bars and connectors if needed)
-???? I no nothing about brass​

  • Economy connectors made of stainless steel Li-Ion Battery replacement caps and wire
+ price
-resistance
-expected aesthetic
-space (an up/down moving 14ga wire +insulation needs more room than a 1 mm bar that I would leave uninsulated for the mod will be 3D printed.​

So, what do you think?
 

awsum140

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Could you clarify what you mean by the connector? I haven't finished my first up of coffee, yet. Do you mean a connector to allow battery removal with the batteries as a unit, or assembly, or separate connectors for the batteries themselves? Maybe a sketch of the mod design would help.
 

vapealone

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Could you clarify what you mean by the connector? I haven't finished my first up of coffee, yet. Do you mean a connector to allow battery removal with the batteries as a unit, or assembly, or separate connectors for the batteries themselves? Maybe a sketch of the mod design would help.
Sorry, my bad.
I need custom battery contacts for Li-Ion, not connectors. I want to remove the batteries individually.
The geometry is pretty simple:
Layout.jpg

At least on paper:)
Single contact w/ solder bar on the left, dual - to + on the right
 

awsum140

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I'd make the contacts from brass or copper rods or bolts, machined with a file in a drill press to get the right size and shape. Get the diameter correct, then shape the contact end and the cut them to approximate length. File to get the length exact.

For the bars, again, either brass or copper bar stock. Any machining for the rods can be done with a Dremel and a file, assuming you have a vice or other clamping method.

Solder them together and install.

Brass or copper will have better conductivity that stainless, plus both are a lot easier to work than stainless.

My experience with a stainless printed part from Shapeways was not very good. Tolerances go way out when it goes from the plastic model to the mold for casting.
 

jonniemac

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Made a second set of covers for my DNA200 mod. First set is on the right, latest set is on the left. Had to make a few changes to the inside of the front cover to give a little more cable relief for the screen. Now onto the main body and buttons! I'm really, really hoping to get at least one complete device done with this long holiday weekend.

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