Yes, With a plastic or wooden body you have to add the ground wire to the 510. I usually do anyway,,, just because.
Mike n Tibs DNA Mods!
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Yes, With a plastic or wooden body you have to add the ground wire to the 510. I usually do anyway,,, just because.
@BlueridgeDog have I mentioned how awesome I think your screen bezels look?
Not just square, but beveled and curved.... That's one of those little things that really makes a huge difference...imho.
Tomorrow, it looks like the 1590G/200 will finally get assembled. I've been really busy with a big headache working on my Jeep. Finally got that out of the way yesterday. Today I had chores to get done before I could head down to the basement. I did get the battery retainer cut out, filed down, drilled and holes tapped. It fits like a glove but could be more "beautiful". My basic criteria for it is that it works and it does that very nicely so I'm satisfied with it.
Tomorrow will be soldering and installing the 510. I'm using an FD V4 for the first time and can't say I'm in love with it. I think I came up with a method to get 12 gauge wire on it without drilling anything out. I'll see how that goes tomorrow.
Tomorrow will be soldering and installing the 510. I'm using an FD V4 for the first time and can't say I'm in love with it. I think I came up with a method to get 12 gauge wire on it without drilling anything out. I'll see how that goes tomorrow.
Besides polyurethane, can anyone suggest a sealant for a 3D printed mod? I dyed my latest print from sculpteo using boiling water and Rit dye, the results are good, however the colors don't "take" accurately to the prints (ymmv)... More when I post pictures.
Anyways, I used krylon clear matte sealant last time to avoid that shiny plastic (candy apple) kind of look.... Not impressed with that either
it'll be my fail safe, but can anyone suggest another clear matte sealer?
Anyways, I used krylon clear matte sealant last time to avoid that shiny plastic (candy apple) kind of look.... Not impressed with that either
it'll be my fail safe, but can anyone suggest another clear matte sealer?
Mike n Tibs DNA Mods! | Page 87 | E-Cigarette ForumBesides polyurethane, can anyone suggest a sealant for a 3D printed mod? I dyed my latest print from sculpteo using boiling water and Rit dye, the results are good, however the colors don't "take" accurately to the prints (ymmv)... More when I post pictures.
Anyways, I used krylon clear matte sealant last time to avoid that shiny plastic (candy apple) kind of look.... Not impressed with that either
Not clear but................
And not matte either..............fail!
I'm assuming this is the post you meant. I'm a little worried about the "shrunk 1% to 2%" part and "throwing off registration".... But I had actually read super glue and acetone mixture for sealing... I wonder if it makes a ejuice protective layer? Not to mention our oily hands and whatnot.As to how I goofed it up (sort of...but got it sorted).
Since I had a good case that I had printed in white just to test, I thought I would test a way to seal it and color it:
Equal parts nail polish, cyanoacrylate glue and acetone:
Dipped the mod:
One dip was nice, two was perfect but three was too thick and impacted the close tolerances. Also the process seems to have shrunk the print by about 1% to 2%...so it blew my screen registration and sliding door. I was able to get it back together and sand out some build up...the end result is nice (sanded down to 800 grit is has a slick feel). All back together but I needed a mallet to slide the door on!
Someone suggested Tamiya clear coat (hobby store) or fixative (craft/art supply store) but again not sure about durability.
I did a "dip" and it saturated the part and did cause some shrinkage. I have found that it has expanded back about half. Next time I would do a paint on application and yes, it seals from juice etc. It makes a shockingly good finish that can be sanded and buffed.
I used a couple coats of clear satin polyurethane over the acrylic paint on my brd. Probably better off with a few more coats but I am not having issues.Not very shiny, just clear, must be the satin.
A little off topic (ok very off topic) the atty lock seems to have stopped working on my dna40 in my flask? It worked, then today I tried it and it didn't do anything. (holding + - same time)
I'm in TC mode, but it won't lock. And it used to...?
I'm in TC mode, but it won't lock. And it used to...?
I've been doing Rit Dye and about 10 coats of acrylic sealant. I get great colors and the acrylic does a fine job. I'm not sure what I'm gonna do with the aluminum yet; barring I don't win the finish contest
From the last round (7?) of buys thru Mike. It's a gold series, with atty lock, I've used it before, then it suddenly stopped? Everything else seems to work
I've been concerned about that feature on one of mine, because it has failed once or twice. I tend to use it on one particular mod rather frequently, and I've been wondering if the feature could fail. Puts me in mind of a DNA 30 I have, which is about a year old, but was not installed into a mod until a couple of weeks ago; it won't power up above around 3 volts. I ramp it up to 30 watts, and it weak, reading 3.1 volts. My other 30 is more like 6 volts at 30 watts. I don't know, I guess it could be in my build somehow, but I wonder if it's the board.
I'm thinking of doing a YIHI mod. sx350j kit on VT. reports 150 watts and temp limiting...hmmm. It will be my first; kinda tempting.
I had 2 SX350j mods. I think the chip is overhyped POS thats very inaccurate (typical chinese crap chip).
Oh well, maybe not then. I could build a 200 for about the same $$.
Things got in the way and I didn't get around to the 1590G until after lunch, today. Would have been better if I hadn't.
I soldered all the leads in place and installed the 510 to the leads. Did a test install and it all fit although that 12 gauge is a bear to work with. Powered it up and everything worked fine. I also checked on the PC with Escribe and set the profile for Ti, preheat level and display items I wanted. Then, I went back to the basement to assemble everything.
I did screw up and made the display window offset 2mm closer to the fire button rather than 2mm further from the fire button. I installed the display to a DNA40 board, set it up with tape to hold it in place, powered up the DNA40 and installed the display. The window size is perfect. Unfortunately, that 2mm offset in the wrong direction is just too much. There's no way to install, or operate, the fire button because the stiff portion of the ziff cable is over the hole for the fire button.
Lesson learned, new CNC 1590G ordered. And I had even given this one a nice brushed finish. Oh well.
I soldered all the leads in place and installed the 510 to the leads. Did a test install and it all fit although that 12 gauge is a bear to work with. Powered it up and everything worked fine. I also checked on the PC with Escribe and set the profile for Ti, preheat level and display items I wanted. Then, I went back to the basement to assemble everything.
I did screw up and made the display window offset 2mm closer to the fire button rather than 2mm further from the fire button. I installed the display to a DNA40 board, set it up with tape to hold it in place, powered up the DNA40 and installed the display. The window size is perfect. Unfortunately, that 2mm offset in the wrong direction is just too much. There's no way to install, or operate, the fire button because the stiff portion of the ziff cable is over the hole for the fire button.
Lesson learned, new CNC 1590G ordered. And I had even given this one a nice brushed finish. Oh well.
Many thanks to @Cotay for his design, this box is very nice. This wouldn't have been possible without his countless pms with me and his talented efforts in designing an incredibly well thought out box. Thank you @Cotay!
This came to me from sculpteo in white raw finish. Following some advice I decided to use rit dye to color it. The results came out good imo, and if I were to do it again in the future I would order some extra cheap pieces in the same material and finish to test the dye on... The dye colored very differently than the box says and even dark (black) colors have a tint of this or that (ymmv)
I personally had a catastrophic failure after dying both front and rear in the same batch, and had to sand off all the clear coat on the front and redo it. The result of sanding caused what looks like wear spots, but those are where I over sanded to get the clear off to re dye.
FYI : these prints are easy to dye in a pot of boiling water on your stove top without any risk of damage from the heat. These pieces were dyed at medium heat (about 225f according to a meat thermometer) for up to 30 mins. No warping, melting, etc. Again ymmv.
The buttons were supposed to be dark blood red (super dark red) but ended up bright red (why you need test pieces) and the body was intended to be dark grey, but the greys I tried were all tinted purple or blue... So this was as black as I could get it. This was a whole bottle of liquid rit dye in boiling water for at least 30 mins (stirring constantly)
Roughly the same size as my flask. I wish the buttons were darker. Anyone contemplating @Cotay design or this style box (mion I think?) I will say it was the easiest dna200 build I've done (of 3), I think the box is incredibly well thought out, even has a bracket to keep the screen pushed up against the frame so it didn't wiggle or move backwards if touched. Well done.
Edit: it houses a 1400mah battery too! (forgot the c rating)
Many thanks to @Cotay
This came to me from sculpteo in white raw finish. Following some advice I decided to use rit dye to color it. The results came out good imo, and if I were to do it again in the future I would order some extra cheap pieces in the same material and finish to test the dye on... The dye colored very differently than the box says and even dark (black) colors have a tint of this or that (ymmv)
I personally had a catastrophic failure after dying both front and rear in the same batch, and had to sand off all the clear coat on the front and redo it. The result of sanding caused what looks like wear spots, but those are where I over sanded to get the clear off to re dye.
FYI : these prints are easy to dye in a pot of boiling water on your stove top without any risk of damage from the heat. These pieces were dyed at medium heat (about 225f according to a meat thermometer) for up to 30 mins. No warping, melting, etc. Again ymmv.
The buttons were supposed to be dark blood red (super dark red) but ended up bright red (why you need test pieces) and the body was intended to be dark grey, but the greys I tried were all tinted purple or blue... So this was as black as I could get it. This was a whole bottle of liquid rit dye in boiling water for at least 30 mins (stirring constantly)
Roughly the same size as my flask. I wish the buttons were darker. Anyone contemplating @Cotay design or this style box (mion I think?) I will say it was the easiest dna200 build I've done (of 3), I think the box is incredibly well thought out, even has a bracket to keep the screen pushed up against the frame so it didn't wiggle or move backwards if touched. Well done.
Edit: it houses a 1400mah battery too! (forgot the c rating)
Many thanks to @Cotay
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