18350 batteries (protected/unprotected)

[pocariboy73]

Incidently, I bought the Panasonic NCR18650PF 2900mAh 10A on G-market. On a site note, that battery is a few mm longer than other 1850's and does NOT fit in my VTR and just barely makes it into the others. Even when I adjust the top cap battery. Though it fits in the simple tube mod just fine. Should I chuck that out for safety reasons?

Most of my others were from G-market too, and they are the green colored "atatafire XSL18650 2600mAh 3.7V Lithium-ion Unprotected" batteries.

The other is a "Samsung SDI 18650 3.7V 3000mAh Protected Lithium-Ion" battery which I was advised to use on my simple tube mod. Chuck that out too?

Holy cow...Is it that comon for them to explode? Or just when abused, cracked, and thrown around? I wish I didn't have to do this....aaaaaiiiigo!

The charger I use is excellent. It's the Intellicharger i2 made by Nitecore. And not a copy of one either!

ㅠㅠㅠ

I made a mistake with some information on this post, which I just noticed now.

I meant to say that the Samsung SDI 18650 3.7V 3000mAh Protected Lithium-Ion" battery is about 3mm longer than the other unprotected batteries. This, I've recently learned today, is because of the thin layered circuit board placed on top of the protective battery. Thus it fits in all my mods, aside from my VTR.

I suppose if you're battery charger is of high quality, then a protective battery is not necessary. And if your mechanical Mod has a circutry board, it's not necessary either.

Though, in a straight tube Mod with no screening anything, protective batteries are the way to go.

In any event, the L-ion batteries I'm speaking about are not recommended anymore, as the the newer INR batteries seem to be the safest batteries available.

Just wanted to clear that up. For it wasn't the Panasonic unprotected battery which is longer, it was the Samsung.

Cheers....

 

[Waddle]

The problem is that most ICR batteries are not high drain batteries. In other words they have low -c ratings. So in fact they are neither safe in regulated mods nor in mechanical mods. I'd rather go with a safe chemistry high drain battery because even with (cheap and unreliable) protection ICR batteries could easily fail. Protected batteries are redundant in regulated mods.

Be safe...only use high drain IMR/Hybrid/INR batteries from the list.

 

[pocariboy73]

The problem is that most ICR batteries are not high drain batteries. In other words they have low -c ratings. So in fact they are neither safe in regulated mods nor in mechanical mods. I'd rather go with a safe chemistry high drain battery because even with (cheap and unreliable) protection ICR batteries could easily fail. Protected batteries are redundant in regulated mods.

Be safe...only use high drain IMR/Hybrid/INR batteries from the list.

That's the plan. Got two INR's today and within the next few weeks should have enough of them to replace all my ICRs, which I'll relable and sell on Ebay as INR's (kidding).

 

[alljokingaside]

So all's been quiet on the front recently, so I thought to break radio silence with another inane question o' mine.

Read through this thread and didn't really find a satisfying answer (cigwell?), so.

Any conclusive sources for 18350/18500 batteries in Korea? I've been eyeing the Astro telescopic clone (along with the Atom clone and PaPs clone [FT]. I'm becoming partial to the Astro SS+brass) and thought to do due diligence w/r/t batteries sources. 18650's seem to be relatively easy to come by here (ie Gmarket's Sammy INR...25-R), but haven't found the same for the smaller batteries. I did see Efest batteries on Gmarket, but am a bit wary w/r/t battery clones (http://item2.gmarket.co.kr/English/detailview/item.aspx?goodscode=644752421 ; aside from Gmarket/Cigwell, where do you find these batts [efest, etc]? Neither FT nor Orbtronics sells 18350/18500s. Cigwell seems unreasonably expensive. Ergh)

Also, assuming semi-regular periods of chain vaping with... for an 18500, let's say a simple 1.3-ish ohm build, what could I expect from an 18500 battery in terms of battery life? Same Q for an 18350. I could probably do the math and figure some rough guesstimate, but why not outsource the Q? ; )

Thanks!

 

[Waddle]

So all's been quiet on the front recently, so I thought to break radio silence with another inane question o' mine.

Read through this thread and didn't really find a satisfying answer (cigwell?), so.

Any conclusive sources for 18350/18500 batteries in Korea? I've been eyeing the Astro telescopic clone (along with the Atom clone and PaPs clone [FT]. I'm becoming partial to the Astro SS+brass) and thought to do due diligence w/r/t batteries sources. 18650's seem to be relatively easy to come by here (ie Gmarket's Sammy INR...25-R), but haven't found the same for the smaller batteries. I did see Efest batteries on Gmarket, but am a bit wary w/r/t battery clones (http://item2.gmarket.co.kr/English/detailview/item.aspx?goodscode=644752421 ; aside from Gmarket/Cigwell, where do you find these batts [efest, etc]? Neither FT nor Orbtronics sells 18350/18500s. Cigwell seems unreasonably expensive. Ergh)

Also, assuming semi-regular periods of chain vaping with... for an 18500, let's say a simple 1.3-ish ohm build, what could I expect from an 18500 battery in terms of battery life? Same Q for an 18350. I could probably do the math and figure some rough guesstimate, but why not outsource the Q? ; )

Thanks!

Personally I don't like IMR18350 batteries. I find I get about an hour vape time out of them (sub-ohm). IMR!8500 batteries would be the smallest form factor I would go....and I don't use them either.

To answer your question, aside from what was already stated in this thread I personally don't know...sorry. You might find you can get them cheaper and faster out of the USA. Not all air carriers have restrictions on Li-Ion batteries.

FT does sell VAPPOWER IMR18350 and IMR18500. But expect 45-60 days delivery as they can only be shipped via HKG post surface mail.

 

[alljokingaside]

Saw the FT Vappower batteries. Not sure if I trust 'em yet. If I remember the numbers, amp draw grows exponentially once "sub-ohm" levels are reached generally-speaking (...right?), so with moderate draw, I'm guessing I can get at least a few hours per battery on the anticipated build. Not bad since that's more for "stealth" mode. I'm not really sure if that's what I'd even want to do, but with a telescopic and a first (mech), why not figure out what I like and dislike. I'd like to avoid blowing up my nose like a mr potato head though...

From yr exp., are there any real benefits of sub-ohming (and by sub-ohming, I mean a moderate-severe subohm or like under .7 ohms) or strictly sticking with 18650s (which seems to me from what I'v read, the only battery that you'd want to sub-ohm with w/ less hassle (ie swapping batteries out every few hours)? [I mean, w/r/t performance (ie flavor). I'm pretty happy vaping at 17/19W (Lemo Drop/Veritas, respectively. Actually, w/r/t the Lemo, the high I've pushed it on my MVP, the quicker the wick charred.)]

atm, I'm looking at the FT Astro clone and the PaPs clone (the Atom, too, but it appears to be effectively the same as an Astro). While the PaPs clone seems to be the better buy, it's only applicable if I'm planning on sticking to one battery type. Unsure if that will or will not be the case. Thanks again

 

[Waddle]

Well with regulated mods sub-ohm coils aren’t necessary. But when it comes to mechanical mods this where you gain watts. Watts = Vapor. Personally I wouldn’t go any lower than 0.8 Ohms with any 18350 battery but some may argue. I won't sub-ohm on anything but 18650 batteries. For the Lemo you probably wouldn’t want to go higher than 20 - 25 watts anyway. If that's the case why are you even looking at mechanical mods? 1.3 Ohms on a fully charged battery will only give you about 13 watts. Not to mention voltage drop. Mechanical mods also require a lot of attention (especially copper or brass). Stealth mode with the Astro is small, (I own one myself) actually too small for me. I don't find it very comfortable. But that's just me.

I strictly use dual coil RTA devices so sub-ohm coils are kind of necessary(0.5 - 0.9 Ohms). Build decks aren’t that big and I use lower gauge kanthal (26ga). If I didn't build low my coils would be monsters.

If you're not comfortable with the Vappower batteries then you don't have much choice. You either buy your batteries in the USA, HKG, or Europe and have them shipped or pay for the overpriced 18350s in Korea. If you're going to stick to one size of batteries then the choice is simple - 18650s. I have two sets of 18350 batteries and they rarely, if ever, get used.

 

[alljokingaside]

P=IV, P=I^2R, V=IR, V=RQt^-1, yeah. Was just a bit...well, lazy with the numbers since I'm kinda past the "find-suitable-mod" phase and proceeding to the tedious "cover-yr-corners/supplies" phase (given vaping gear availability/FT shipment time). I won't get to the coil-building, number-crunching phase until the thing's in front of me.

Once I get it, I'm planning on doing single coils for the time being (though I WAS only planning on buying juice and sticking wth the MVP for a long while, initially...ugh).

Mech mod isn't primarily for performance, though it'll probably a very nice benefit. I like the idea that not only will I have an APV, but I'll have a personal security device while passing through the rough streets of Korea and its secret underwater chambers full of gold. You know, with no circuitry and all. Appreciate your input. =) I guess I'll have to put off trying all of the battery modes until prices go down.
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Also, missed the Astro comment intailly. How is the Astro btw? Trying to decide between it and the Atom (and the PaPs clone, though this one vs the other two are like apples and oranges, apparently)

 

[Waddle]

Don't get me wrong. Although I mostly use regulated devices my Nemesis mechanical mod is still in rotation. But I find that the kick off a new battery dies reasonably fast. Having said that I do like the look of a stainless steel mod and atomizer.

Mechanical clone mods can be a pain though. They require constant cleaning and usually require some type of modification. If I were to go back in time I'd buy a decent stainless steel authentic mod for about $100. The clones are always a hit or miss. The brass or copper mods will give you a lower voltage drop, but the patina that accumulates drives me nuts. I just don't like it when my hands always smell like old pennies.

But of course no vaper's kit is complete without a couple of mechanical mods.

Edit: The Astro is okay for the money. It's got a bit of a sharp edge where it telescopes. The Nemesis and Chi You mech mods are probably the biggest sellers on FT. I got lucky with my Nemesis.