All Bully/scuba/gen Style v1,v2,v3,v3.5,v4 Rebuildables in this thread- Pictures Inside...Arriving next week Updated 9/8/12

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dannoman

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Phoenix Bully Rebuildable Atomizer w/ Extra Coil and Wick
$14.95

Well thought out rebuildable atomizer design constructed of stainless steel and plated copper. This product is billed as one of the simplest and best quality rebuildable atomizers on the market. This atomizer allows 10-15 drops and has great leakage protection with a fully sleeved post made of silicone.

Suggested technique: Make a U-bend over one of the smaller screwdrivers in a precision screwdriver kit, then use that bend to 'hook' your wick approximately in the middle of your wick and make a couple of wraps to the right and left, leaving about a half of an inch on either end (pointing in different directions as the wire holes are in a diagonal alignment on the posts). Then insert one of ends into hole in post, tighten down screw, then do the same with other end. Then tuck in extra wick inside the well for juice absorption. One inch extra wick and coil provided with the Bully besides that which is already installed.

More how-to:
1.Cut about an inch each of coil and wick.
2.Wrap your coil around wick making sure it is wrapped not too tight or not too loose, coil needs to make contact with the wick.
3.Insert ends of wire into post holes and secure with screws.
4.Tuck remaining wick into Bully well.
5.Connect to your PV and do a dry burn to see if your coil glows and you have a working atty.
6.It is recommended you season the coil first by dripping on to the coil and wick then doing another dry burn.
7.Finally drip enough directly on coil and wicking to about a 15 drop maximum, screw sleeve back on, insert mouthpiece and vape.


Tips & Info:
• With the Bully you can experiment with all sorts of different wicking materials and resistance wire, various wrapping methods, etc. It is recommended you wrap your wicks with similar spacing as you see in a new Bully - do not wrap too close together.
• Do not entirely unscrew post screws when removing old wick/wire as these are very small and easy to lose, harder to reinsert.
• The Bully can be fully disassembled for cleaning. Using a needle-nose pliers you can remove the posts also.
• The connector pin is engineered in such a way as to allow flexibility so as not to push your battery connector post/pin down and damage your PV. Instead the connector post on your Bully will move up to accomodate the battery post.
• Not ALL 510 drip tips will work on the Bully as there are manufacturer variances.
THIS PRODUCT IS FOR EXPERIENCED USERS ONLY - THERE ARE NO WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND EXCEPT IN CASE OF A MANUFACTURING DEFECT. ADVICE CANNOT BE PROVIDED IN OUR TICKET SYSTEM FOR THIS PRODUCT. PLEASE VISIT OUR FORUM ON ECF.


For more information, please refer to the videos below from the inventor of the Phoenix Bully Atmoizer:
You can view the links on the product page


 
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kwalka

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The Bully has been built successfully with steel mesh:

Reinventing the Phoenix Rebuildable Atomizer « pinoyvaper

One thing I would recommend doing differently is to snip the bottom of the wick at about a 45 deg angle. All Genesis experts do this to maximize wicking off the bottom of the well. In a situation such as this where we do not have a 5ml tank for the wick to sit in, the effect of the angle snip will be amplified. We are going to want to access as much juice between refills as possible. :2c:
 

WallyO

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kwalka and / or others...I am very new to recoiling and would like to further my know how on the subject.
I have a coil question and you seem pretty knowledgeable on the subject. Why do the Hyper SRT coils use the non resistant wire to the posts and this Phoenix rebuildable atty just uses resistance wire all the way. Are the non resistant stubs on the SRT really necessary. What is their intent? Can I coil an SRT with all resistance wire?

Maybe the time has come for a seperate thread or sticky devoted to wicks, coils and such questions. So questions like this don't bury the new product announcements.
 
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kwalka

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kwalka and / or others...I am very new to recoiling and would like to further my know how on the subject.
I have a coil question and you seem pretty knowledgeable on the subject. Why do the Hyper SRT coils use the non resistant wire to the posts and this Phoenix rebuildable atty just uses resistance wire all the way. Are the non resistant stubs on the SRT really necessary. What is their intent? Can I coil an SRT with all resistance wire?

Maybe the time has come for a seperate thread or sticky devoted to wicks, coils and such questions. So questions like this don't bury the new product announcements.

I would need to see the SRT to properly answer that specific question. However I do have all different kinds of RBAs and heres the deal. On RBAs that do not have a + & - post/screw right where the resistance wire is located, you must use a combination of R and NR wire as the NR wire does not heat up. So it is used when you need to transfer current without the wire getting hot.

EDIT: there are many threads and subforums dedicated to RBAs wick and wire, etc...
 

Dieseler

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kwalka and / or others...I am very new to recoiling and would like to further my know how on the subject.
I have a coil question and you seem pretty knowledgeable on the subject. Why do the Hyper SRT coils use the non resistant wire to the posts and this Phoenix rebuild able atty just uses resistance wire all the way. Are the non resistant stubs on the SRT really necessary. What is their intent? Can I coil an SRT with all resistance wire?

Maybe the time has come for a separate thread or sticky devoted to wicks, coils and such questions. So questions like this don't bury the new product announcements.

Useing non res wire coming of the posts to the res wire that wrap on coil prevents hot legs and the nasty burnt taste. You only want the wrap around the coil itself to heat the e-liquid.

Some modders make there coils just using res wire as long as the post leads are very short there is no hot legs.
also
In mod section of forum there is a video from the fella over sea's that shows how to easily twist the non res wire to the res wire then wrapping the silica . No soldering or crimping clamps.

I imagine mass produced its easier to crimp them together as opposed to line workers twisting them in assembly.
 

kwalka

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Useing non res wire coming of the posts to the res wire that wrap on coil prevents hot legs and the nasty burnt taste. You only want the wrap around the coil itself to heat the e-liquid.

Some modders make there coils just using res wire as long as the post leads are very short there is no hot legs.
also
In mod section of forum there is a video from the fella over sea's that shows how to easily twist the non res wire to the res wire then wrapping the silica . No soldering or crimping clamps.

I imagine mass produced its easier to crimp them together as opposed to line workers twisting them in assembly.

The fellows name on youtube is igetcha69 and the video that shows how to properly wrap is the Odysseus review.
 
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