Cutting into my subtank mini

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xDarkRelic

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Feb 2, 2015
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Alright guys, so I'm fairly new to building. Actually, I've never done it!

After reviewing a subtank mini about two weeks ago, I am loving everything about it. The flavor, the vapor, the compacity! Everything.

So after watching rip trippers video of building on the rba I noticed he had to move the wick away from the channels so the juice can properly be wicked into the chamber.

On one of the comments, a guy said he actually drilled a hole into the side of the cap that goes over the coil to insure that he gets no dry hits.

What's everyone's take on this? Is it really necessary to do? I'm really worried about getting dry hits.

What's a safe way to do this? If it's needed at all!
 

m00shie

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Feb 4, 2015
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I've been using the Subtank RBA for quite awhile and have been vaping from 50/50 all the way to max VG without needing any modifications or drilling. What I find most crucial to the success is how you wick the RBA as the Subtank RBA is very sensitive to wicking. During the initial building on the RBA, it was somewhat frustrating to balance the air flow and juice flow that I switch back to OCC (good thing about Subtank :p) and back to experimenting with the RBA after I cool off. After many experiments, I manage to get it working and I no longer have any issues with it. Very happy with the RBA.

The best video I can recommend to watch is the one from .... Kickers. I personally find his method works really well and I made some personal changes to the method to fit my personal requirements. So, you can try start from there and work your way.
 
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Wolfenstark

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Sep 1, 2014
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I'd rather not have to fiddle with a tank.
Juice holes are small but Ive been ok using up to a 67%vg juice.
Thread cotton through coil, I do it snug put on chamber and cut the ends about half an inch above the chamber then fold each end down so the bottom of the wick is touching the deck. Juice it up then using a small tool gently move the wicks away from the side of the chamber.

Mine has been fine since doing it like that.
 

xDarkRelic

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Feb 2, 2015
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Texas
Well I just tried it! No modifications of any kind, just one of the coils it came with, and some of the cotton it came with too. I set my coil on the top, clipped the ends, and made sure it was firing properly. I cut the cotton, slipped on the cover, and clipped the cotton again to be even with the top of the cover. I padded it down and tried my best to uncover the channels after saturating. I'm on 22 watts on my I stick and currently no dry hits of any kind! I didn't think I'd have a problem with 50/50, but I'm glad I'm about hour into vaping it and no problems.

Now let's say I do start to get dry hits. What's a good remedy? Just covering the air holes and doing some dry toots until I get it saturated again? And theoretically if I get them bad, I can always pop my tank off and saturate the actual cotton, right?
 

dhood

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Sep 30, 2014
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I've had my original since January. I did file the bottom trough for the juice the channels so they would be opened up a bit more. Got a second one a few weeks ago and the channel was already cut out. I've only been using the supplied twisted coils on the RBA deck and simply re-wicking it. I find that as long as I make sure the wick (snug but not too tight) is pulled away from the juice channels, it wicks perfectly. I use Rip's method for wicking. I've been using 70VG juice at about 22 watts and chain vape regularly. I haven't got a dry or burned hit yet.
 
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