Thanks guys you just talked the Holmes right off my list, it is going to be too airy. 
DNA 40, NR, Nickel Builds
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Well the Holmes V2 has 2 airflow holes instead of 4 like the V1. So maybe the V2 has tighter airflow better suitable for mouth to lung. But it got criticized for reducing the number airholes.
From what I've seen yes the airflow ring is the same but the body itself has only 2 holes for the V2. Maybe it was only the first batch though. I don't think this really reduces the airflow though.
Why don't you want to increase temperature to increase the temperature?
I figure the taste changes. The other way to increase the perceived temperature is to increase the amount of vapor. The more vapor the coil produces the warmer the vape because it doesn't get diluted as quickly.
The resistance isn't really important except that it still has to be withing the amp limit specifications to fire.
Generally you want to focus on the surface area of your coil (thicker wire or more wraps = larger surface area). Theoretically it would be ideal if we would share "I build a 92mm² coil" etc. Of course that's impractical. But resistance alone doesn't really tell you anything so you need to specify wire gauge, number of wraps, inner diameter.
You can check out steam engine in advanced mode and check the "heat flux". That is basically watts per surface area of your coil. The more surface area, the more vapor, the more power/watts your coil can handle before hitting the temperature, and the more "warmth" also.
Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
My best nickel build so far was out of triple twisted AWG 32 nickel wire:
Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
Dropping by to just let you guys know that I've had far greater success with vertical coils on dna40 devices than horizontal coils. Thus far, I've tried them on a squape r, a lemo drop, and a delta II with rba head, and on average then are able to stay cooler at higher wattage than similarly sized horizontal coils all of which were spaced. The vertical coils I've been building have been closely spaced, and in one case actually touching, and and every case, they have been less prone to reach temperature control for me than their horizontal counterparts. They are being wrapped around the exterior with rayon in the normal fashion, by the way. The biggest improvement I've seen was on the lemo where I've had difficulty avoiding hitting temperature limits at 450 degrees and 25 watts with well spaced relatively large diameter coils. If you haven't tried vertical coils yet with these nickle builds (and I'm not a vertical coil guy in general) I'd recommend trying it.
Cheers!
Cheers!
I've been curious about trying vertical nickel builds, but haven't seen many examples. Would you mind posting some pictures? I'm particularly interested in the squape R build as I just got mine yesterday and have been testing out new builds on it.
I suppose in a manner of speaking, yes.So they are less efficient?
I'll do so when I get the chance. The Squape-R was a bit trickier than the other more Kayfun style decks, but still performed better for me with the vertical coil.
My SqR is my favorite atty with nickel. In fact it's always sitting on top my Flask it works so well. A little bit of a learning curve with it at first, like knowing to keep the coil off the base and keeping the 510 PIN cleaned and at the same position with the Flask. Some have found if you wedge a piece of Teflon wire or even some nickel wire in between the 510 PIN, it stabilizes the atty's resistance. I haven't had to do that yet as mine has been very stable so far. But if my base resistance starts to give me fits, I know what I'm going to do.
But back to my build. And maybe I'm a simple man but this works perfectly for me and it works every single time. And it's super easy to build for the SqR. I do a spaced coil, 6/7 wraps of 30ga tempered nickel, or 8/9 wraps of 29ga comes out to .13ohm's. I throw 17watts at it and keep my temp set to 450 degrees.
I'm a MTL guy and this gives me a thick warm vape. I'm sure if you like lung hits you could throw a lot more power at it.
I just wanted to share what works for me and why the Squape is my favorite atty with nickel. I know some struggle with the SqR and it's base resistance. But having a stable 510 PIN and keeping the coil from touching the deck are the best tricks I learned. That's why I like to go small with my Squape build. Keeps the coil away from the deck.
Others may have a completely different experience. But this is what works for me.... Had to share cuz I love my Flask and my Squape.
^^^^ Thanx, Rikk!!
I have been considering the Squape + Nano you picture above. This post sold me completely...wallet, credit card, VA Website, click them out of my "Wishlist".
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I have been considering the Squape + Nano you picture above. This post sold me completely...wallet, credit card, VA Website, click them out of my "Wishlist".
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I've had limited success with standard nickel builds on it so far. I probably need to work on my wicking or something though as I constantly hit TP. I've been trying the same 30ga build you described (not tempered, but the build looks good). At 460 degrees I can't get past 10w with MTL and 15w with lung hits. Flavor is ok, but I get the feeling it could be much better. Need to keep building I guess
Wicking makes a huge difference, especially with the Squape. With the Squape I've found that more is definitely better. Full fluffy cotton.I've had limited success with standard nickel builds on it so far. I probably need to work on my wicking or something though as I constantly hit TP. I've been trying the same 30ga build you described (not tempered, but the build looks good). At 460 degrees I can't get past 10w with MTL and 15w with lung hits. Flavor is ok, but I get the feeling it could be much better. Need to keep building I guess
I only have one TP device currently. I really want to have a 2nd. In fact I've had my eye on the squonker Flask but it's been hard to pull the trigger because of the added expense of all new atty's on top of the new flask. It's a little scary to make that type of commitment after spending so much on the atty's I already have. But I guess all it takes is one good atty.
That's where I'm at with my Squape and flask. The squape is all I use on my Flask anymore because it works so damn well.
In the end that's all I'm after right. A safe, (as can be) enjoyable satisfying vape. That's what I get with the squape flask combination. I don't don't even mess with nickel on my other atty's anymore.
I do love to tinker and build and try new things. But that's what I use Kanthal for. And I always have have my eyes out for something new or unique when it comes to nickel. We're just not seeing that yet. I hope we start seeing atty's that are specifically made with nickel in mind.
Sometimes my posts get soooo long.... Sorry
Lol it's all good Rikk. I finally read through the squape r thread after a few days. I just rebuilt and wicked and it's running beautifully now! Warm thick vapor and tons of flavor at 15w and not hitting TP (set to 420). This time I kept the coil on my 3mm mandrel and fiddled with the wraps after installing it. I also "fluffed" the ends of my wick before priming.
I'm also using the squape on my flask and it's a beautiful combination right now. My only complaint is that the resistance is reading .21 when I was building for around .18. As well as its working I'm not going to mess with it!
I'm also using the squape on my flask and it's a beautiful combination right now. My only complaint is that the resistance is reading .21 when I was building for around .18. As well as its working I'm not going to mess with it!
It might refine to where it should be after it sits for awhile. Which I think is fine and what it should do. Sometimes if my resistance seems higher than what I wrapped it to be, probably just from messing with it. It will usually refine to where I know it should be once I leave it be for a while. But I don't rush for refinement if it's close, I just enjoy it
What happened to me a few builds ago, I built at .14 and attached my Squape and it registered at .21. I knew that was too high and something was off. If I'm off by a few points I don't worry about it and know it will refine to where it should be. This was too much so I took off the atty and looked at my 510 PIN. It was completely flush and I usually have it out a couple mm's. Not to put a lot of pressure on my Flasks PIN, but to make a good solid contact. After I unscrewed my 510 PIN a bit and reattached it to my Flask, resistance read perfectly at .14ohm's. And it's stayed there. No refinement at all.
If your resistance seems off by more than just a couple points, play with your 510 PIN a bit before firing and see if you can't get it to read where you think it should be. It usually only takes me a couple turns one way or the other before my resistance reads correctly.
My nickel builds always seem to match Steam Engine perfectly. So if my initial reading is off, I know something is not quite right with my build or my atty. But it's usually an easy fix with my Squape.
Well, it refined down to .19 which is about right and unfortunately it killed the great vape I was getting :-/ I'm going to try and intentionally build up to .21 and see if I can get it back. The fun never ends
Simply increase the temperature and the vape should be the exact same again.
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