DNA 40, NR, Nickel Builds
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A Joule is 1 Watt second. It is a measurement of energy so it makes no sense to use that unit of measurement as they do. Expending 100 Watts for 1/100th of a second is 1 Joule just the same as expending 1 Watt for 1 second or 1/100th of a Watt for 100 seconds is 1 Joule. A Watt is a measurement of the rate of power expended which is independent of the time it is expended. So if I vape at 150 Watts for 1 second I have used 150 Joules and if I vape 30 Watts for 5 seconds I have used 150 Joules. How the blazes does Joules mean anything to us in practically? It doesn't, so just pretend it is Watts (which I think it probably is) (Edit: just to be clear I mean by that is pretend that what is displayed by the J chip as J is Watts since it can't know how long I am going to hold the button down to apply the correct amount voltage to supply a certain amount of Joules so I think it's actually a Watt display) and as the Sargent penguin said; "Just smile and wave boys....smile and wave."
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Semantics, the Watt was defined before the Joule but the Metric system redefined it. Same thing either way.
Alex,
That is not exactly true. Watts have no time component associated with it. One Joule = One Watt per second. The term Joule has time built into it. One Joule - 1 volt at 1 Amp thru a resistance of 1 ohm for a period of 1 second.
If you say you applied 1 joule you know exactly how much work was done or heat generated. If you say you applied 1 watt you do not know how much work has been done or how much heat was generated. You might have applied 1 watt for a millisecond or a 1000 hours no one will ever know if you just say you applied one watt to a load.
For Reference:
Joule
The joule, symbol J, is a derived unit of energy, work, or amount of heat in the International System of Units. It is equal to the energy transferred when applying a force of one newton through a distance of one meter, or in passing an electric current of one ampere through a resistance of one ohm for one second. It is named after the English physicist James Prescott Joule. {1)
(1) en.wikipedia.org
Here in Europe we usually say Watts/h so when a device states 30w 12V, one knows that it will consume 2.5A each hour or 60A per day.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
It's really strange, I reset the resistance and it went from 0.21 to 0.15 and appears to be working correctly now. I'm really not sure why it changed so drastically. I set the resistance with just the chimney on vs fully built atomizer, could that make a difference? Perhaps I did accidentally fire without setting the resistance first? Really not sure...but appears to be working now. I guess I need more time playing with this. Any advice from m class users?
Re-read my first post about it. We are saying the same thing. What i meant by the last post is it doesn't matter if I say 1 Joule = 1 Watt for 1 Second or if you say 1 Watt = 1 Joule / second, it's reciprical so it's just a matter of semantics.
I'm not an m class user but have the same thing on a dna.
I build the atty fully, fill it up and rest both mod and atty separate for 10 minutes, since the dna 40 doesn't have manual set base line.
I then screw both together and it should give a correct reading.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
I build the atty fully, fill it up and rest both mod and atty separate for 10 minutes, since the dna 40 doesn't have manual set base line.
I then screw both together and it should give a correct reading.
Regards
Tony
Sent from my keyboard through my phone or something like that.
According to steam engine .15 is far closer to the correct resistance of that coil than .21
I hope so too. But I wonder why "jihies" only goes up to 50 and not to 60 like watts. Maybe they'll update it. Should be easy to actually calculate if you write down the volts used for heatup and the resistance (with normal and not powerful or soft mode).
I really wish they would show the current watts used to keep temperature or maybe an average watts used AFTER you stop the draw. That would be a useful measure for the quality of your build /wick. I really hope yihi listens and improves the firmware through updates.
Supposed to get my J board tomorrow and that is on my to do list. If I get time in the future I will hook up to some ADC interfaces I have and will be able to log what is going on, but main goal will be CAD'ing and printing a bottom feeder. My scope is old school analog but at least I can check out the waveform in real time with it.
Just built a twisted 28g nickel build on the Veritas. What do you think? It's reading .09 on the ohm reader.
28 gauge Ni200 twisted with 30 Gauge Kanthal. 6/7 wraps on a 3mm rod installed on a troll rda. Works awesome. Tried the cotton burn test at 420 and didn't char a bit. Installed on a VS RDNA and a HanaModz V4D. Flavor is Awesome and so is Vapor. best taste Ive ever gotten out of my 90g Cereal Killa from 9 south vapes. Tired my ruthless grape at 40 watts and it kicked my ... with flavor, vapor and heat. 
Anyone got ideas on how could i get the derringer clone with philips head screws to work with temp control? Neg posts are fine but center one stays a bit loose how ever tight i try to screw it. Would it work to feed the ni200 around the screws kayfun style or not?
Wrapping the wire around the screw kayfun style is even recommended by evolv. But that won't work for dual coil of course.
I have this derringer clone from fasttech with maggot screws that works fine. I was lucky I had the fitting allen key though. I did file off the sharp edges from the bottom of the screws so I can tighten them a little bit harder. But still have to be careful not to clip the wires.
Are the philips screws just too short? Maybe get another, slightly longer screw or a maggot screw instead?
EDIT: They are called grub screws instead of maggot screws of course
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Evolve recommends going under the screw heads. I've also found that folding over the legs and doubling the lead under the screw helps prevent clipping the wires when you put it through the post holes.
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The center post screw wont make a sufficient connecton as it is a tad too small.. i hvave the 5 cap version of the derringer. I can make a connection but its wobbely. I ordered the hex screw version deck as a spare but ttying to get this work until it arrives id s bit of a challenge. Kanthal has no issues, just nickel as it is softer. Will give kayfun style a go tomorrow and see if it makes a difference
it didn't come with extra screws? Maybe you can find a longer screw in Home depot or something
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