Yes, thanks forgot bout that one you posted.
When you have these issues do watch the ohms closely to see if it related... It only takes a fraction of a second to change the power..
Or it could be a bug I guess.
Eleaf istick 50w Owners Group
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Yes, thanks forgot bout that one you posted.
When you have these issues do watch the ohms closely to see if it related... It only takes a fraction of a second to change the power..
Or it could be a bug I guess.
Took apart the 50w (again). I removed the gold hex screws and was twisting the chrome top cap and it sparked a little at the 510 connection. Magically the fire button works again. I'm no electonics repair wiz, but maybe by shorting it came back to life? Put it back together and it has been working ever since. [emoji47]
I seen crazier things. 
/
You sparked life back into it I guess.
Shorting it seems to reset it when it shuts down.
So maybe it just needed a hard reboot.
/You sparked life back into it I guess.
Shorting it seems to reset it when it shuts down.
So maybe it just needed a hard reboot.
BTW Jeremy your theory was correct, the istick was thinking the adapter was a PC and cutting the charge in half to 500 mah, switched to another adapter and it charged at the correct rate. My theory is that it was the extra circuitry involved with the LED light in that specific adapter that tripped up the istick, have no idea where it came from or what it was originally used for. 14 hours and 10 ml's later and I'm only down 1 bar of battery life, pretty cool.
It's called Jizmoglobin. It's from Mt Baker Vapors Gwar line. It's a nice sweet blueberry custard kinda taste.
What kinda juice you got in that thing?
Cool!
Yeah this baby is a dream.. The last few days I've forgot to charge overnight with one bar left... Man a half hour charge gets me nearly through the whole day.
Once you said it had light, I knew it was. Its got a communication link, similar to PC.
One of Shek's Repairs
Fire Button Fix
There's a silicone grommet that surrounds the fire switch, which has tiny extension arms coming off of it's corners. These 'arms' are what holds the fire button cap in place and keeps it from rattling. This is why the 20W fire button rattles, cuz it doesn't have a grommet like the 50W. What happens during assembly is that factory workers are so rushed to get them together that they mash these silicone arms so they're resting on top of the actual fire switch...and not holding up the fire button cap. So when you try to push the fire button cap, it feels like there's something in the way and why it feels "mushy". It's also why you've gotta press it hard to get it to fire, cuz those 'arms' are sitting on top of the actual firing switch causing a blockage. To fix this issue, you'll need a T6 Torx bit to remove the self-tapping screws on the top and bottom end caps of the iStick. You only need to remove the two top screws.... Be sure to turn off the device FIRST before you start taking it apart! Then hold the black plastic screen with your thumb and gently pull out the internals. You don't have to pull everything out completely, just enough so you can see the fire switch and the grommet around it....like this here:
Ya see that silicone grommet with the 4-legs surrounding the fire switch? That's what's causing the problem. So what ya do is when you push everything back into the enclosure, you wanna slide it in at a slight angle....so that the opposite side of the internals goes into the enclosure before the fire button side. This will keep those legs from getting mashed and they'll hold up the fire button cap properly. You wanna aim the fire button cap downward towards your work space when you reinsert the internals. Gravity will hold the fire button cap in place while you maneuver the internals back into the enclosure. Once everything's back in the enclosure, test the fire button to see if it's clicky and no longer 'mushy'. If it feels right and there's no longer any blockage and you can easily press the button, reinsert the screws and seal it back up.
Fire Button Fix
There's a silicone grommet that surrounds the fire switch, which has tiny extension arms coming off of it's corners. These 'arms' are what holds the fire button cap in place and keeps it from rattling. This is why the 20W fire button rattles, cuz it doesn't have a grommet like the 50W. What happens during assembly is that factory workers are so rushed to get them together that they mash these silicone arms so they're resting on top of the actual fire switch...and not holding up the fire button cap. So when you try to push the fire button cap, it feels like there's something in the way and why it feels "mushy". It's also why you've gotta press it hard to get it to fire, cuz those 'arms' are sitting on top of the actual firing switch causing a blockage. To fix this issue, you'll need a T6 Torx bit to remove the self-tapping screws on the top and bottom end caps of the iStick. You only need to remove the two top screws.... Be sure to turn off the device FIRST before you start taking it apart! Then hold the black plastic screen with your thumb and gently pull out the internals. You don't have to pull everything out completely, just enough so you can see the fire switch and the grommet around it....like this here:
Ya see that silicone grommet with the 4-legs surrounding the fire switch? That's what's causing the problem. So what ya do is when you push everything back into the enclosure, you wanna slide it in at a slight angle....so that the opposite side of the internals goes into the enclosure before the fire button side. This will keep those legs from getting mashed and they'll hold up the fire button cap properly. You wanna aim the fire button cap downward towards your work space when you reinsert the internals. Gravity will hold the fire button cap in place while you maneuver the internals back into the enclosure. Once everything's back in the enclosure, test the fire button to see if it's clicky and no longer 'mushy'. If it feels right and there's no longer any blockage and you can easily press the button, reinsert the screws and seal it back up.
I proudly stand behind my defective iStick 50 watt! I know how to take care of my equipment, and I have no grudge against Eleaf, but my 50 is junk. I have four 20 waters that are great. That's little consolation for the wasted $60 on the 50.
It seems sometimes a low resistance or short can shut the iStick 50 Watt down to where it appears to be completely dead. Plugging it into a USB Wall charger will (usually) bring it back to life.
Yes this is part of its design. To completely shut down it a short is detected, even for just a second. It is a little different.
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