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Fogger v2 performance upgrades

Discussion in 'Rebuildable Atomizer Systems' started by Arvidx, Oct 15, 2013.

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  1. Arvidx

    Arvidx Senior Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2009
    Location:
    Tucson, Arizona, United States
    So the Fogger v2 has turned into a superb and currently favorite setup for me, and I wanted to share a few of the things I did along the way to make it perform the best it can, as well as a few tips/warnings and a bunch of pics.

    IMG_20131014_213844.jpg IMG_20130925_012211.jpg
    This setup is running 3mm Ekowool, a .9 ohm 28g coil and is sitting on an 18350 8 diagrams mod.
    Other than the learning curve on the builds, the biggest limiting point on the Fogger v2 is the air flow. Here's the innards of the air flow control as they come:

    966995_639519752735895_1498204570_o.jpg
    The red circle shows the air flow tube limitation as it comes. This is the part that really causes the Fogger v2 to have a tight draw.

    IMG_20131013_160731.jpg
    Number 1 shows the air flow tube cut off. This tube is thin enough to be broken off with a sturdy set of pliers. It provides no conductivity, only air restriction. There is also an insulator which the air tube normally fits into when pressing up into the center hole seen in number 2 this also should be removed. Number 3 shows the insulator around the positive screw post, more on that later.

    Clearing out the air path, immediately makes this mod a contender, and can be done with a simple wire cutter or even broken off with a pliers.

    IMG_20131013_155238.jpg
    For those that just need that extra air, it can be pushed a bit further with a 1/16th drill bit opening the 3 external holes a bit more and giving more range for the air control. I don't feel this is necessary, but if you have the tools you can feel the air increase. The compromise is less vacuum in the atomizer chamber so your wick building has to be even better. You may find slower wicks are helped by dialing the air back down with the air flow, if you decide to open up these holes.

    More details in the next post.
     
  2. Arvidx

    Arvidx Senior Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2009
    Location:
    Tucson, Arizona, United States
    One danger on the Fogger v2 is the way the positive power connects up from the Positive Screw through the bottom of the Air Control Disk onto the + post contact in the bottom of the Deck and through to the + post in the Atomizer Chamber.

    This leaves 3 areas that can short out. The main cause of shorting is the positive post being adjusted too long for the mod it is connected to. So long as it is adjusted precisely, no shorting, but there are a few preventative measures that can be taken, I'll illustrate.

    2-a.jpg
    If the + post screw is adjusted too long, it can cause the AFC Disk to tilt upwards and contact the Negative Deck.

    2-c.jpg
    Too long of a + Post Screw pressing up on the +Post in the Deck can also cause that post to lean out towards the negatively charged wall after extended use. Here are two preventative measures you can add to buffer over lenghthy positive posts, but first and foremost CAREFULLY ADJUST THE POSITIVE FOR EACH MOD!

    2-d.jpg 2-b.jpg
    Use the insulator for the inside air post on the + Post Screw. You can also use the insulator from an AGA or AGI series atomizer or probably many other atomizers. You do have to cut the height down to fit the negative screw area.
    This insulator also prevents the + Post Screw from contacting the negative 510 threads for the 3rd area that can short. Again all caused by too long of a + Post Screw.

    2-e.jpg
    Finally from the cuttings from the insulator, or if you have a spare high temp o-ring (think silicone), you can add it to the + Post in the Atomizer Chamber. If you do this, keep in mind how large you make it. You need clearance between this ring and the coil built. A longer Half cylinder might be better.
     
  3. Arvidx

    Arvidx Senior Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2009
    Location:
    Tucson, Arizona, United States
    I think the pictures tell the tale pretty well...



    3a.jpg 3b.jpg 3c.jpg 3e.jpg 3f.jpg
     
  4. camaro73

    camaro73 Senior Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

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    May 30, 2013
    Location:
    Dallas, Tx
    Thanks for the info. I will try this out tomorrow after work.
     
  5. Smokke

    Smokke Senior Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

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    Aug 9, 2013
    Location:
    Atlanta, GA, USA
    Very nice work! How do I get the bottom to open up to do this? Mine is working well now that I got the coil right. Any help would greatly be appreciated.
     
  6. FACE MEAT

    FACE MEAT Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

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    Mar 1, 2013
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    Awesome thread! Mine came in the mail yesterday. The first few builds I attempted resulted in either flooding or dry hits. The air flow also seemed tight, even when adjusted fully open.

    I'll try some of your tricks tonight.
     
  7. jac1766

    jac1766 Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

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    Jul 7, 2013
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    The 6th circle
    The AFC section is threaded together, not press fit. Unscrew the very bottom section of the Atty and the air flow tube can be pulled out. When you reassemble the unit, make sure the silicone air-flow diverter is not blocking the holes. Many people have this issue alone, and complain about an impossibly tight draw.
     
  8. shagathlete

    shagathlete Full Member

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2011
    Location:
    Morgantown, WV
    Is it a real PITA to get the two parts separated?
     
  9. Arvidx

    Arvidx Senior Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2009
    Location:
    Tucson, Arizona, United States
    It sure can be. I had to wrap the bottom AFC deck in a piece of leather and get a pair of vice grips around it. The leather or thick cloth can stop you from damaging the metal. Then the slots in the Atty chamber can be used to unscrew it. I laid the back side of my good sized pocket knife into the slots and turned it like a screwdriver basically. Once the pieces Pop and come loose, it has nice threads, they are just tightened on some way more than others.

    Another guy here in town, who got one from the same shipment, actually had the bottom come off before the top cap did when he opened it the first time.
     
  10. jac1766

    jac1766 Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

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    I donned a pair of nitrile gloves and it came off with little issue...
     
  11. Porter1220

    Porter1220 Full Member

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    Jul 10, 2013
    Location:
    Kingsport, TN
    I can't get mine apart. It's like they used thread lock on it or something!
     
  12. BJ43

    BJ43 Vaping Master Verified Member ECF Veteran

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    Nov 27, 2008
    Did all your fixes on mine, plus added little dental floss to the threads of the air control and now it holds its place.
    Very happy with this setup. 1.3ohm vertical 28g nano coil, hemp fiber wick.:) clic pic for video.

    [​IMG]
     
  13. Ninjay16

    Ninjay16 Full Member Verified Member

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    Aug 10, 2013
    Location:
    BAY AREA, CA
    How wide is your coil? I cant get mine over 1.2 without it touching the top of the center post. Also can you show a pic from the top so we can see how you wicked it? mines just cotton wrapped around the coil atm tryna get a better wick for this vertical coil. Also how low is your coil to the insulator around the center post under the wick? im afraid of burning mine.

     
  14. BJ43

    BJ43 Vaping Master Verified Member ECF Veteran

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    I wrap all my vertical coils on a 1.5mm drill bit. I can't measure how close it is at the bottom but it is pretty close. This stays so wet I don't think it will be a problem. I have put 40 ml thru it with one cleaning and dry burn at 30ml.

    Next time I clean it and dry burn I will take a pic from the top without the filler. I am now using hemp fiber for filler.

    [​IMG]
     
  15. Wmmeese

    Wmmeese Dedicated Lurker Verified Member ECF Veteran

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    St Louis
    I installed the vertical coil set up in my Fogger also. Be aware that the diameter of the coil is going to be the air flow limitation of the devise. I prefer some restriction so a coil built on a 1/16 drill bit or an 18 gauge blunt needle works for me. I did open the lower chamber and drilled out their holes in the air tube with a 3/64 bit. It is still. Little tight so I may try a 1/16 drill in the air tube next. If it is still a tight draw, I will wrap a coil an an 18 gauge needle and still have the option to cut off the air tube entirely and open up the air holes under the air control ring. The is as staged approach rather than a full on attack.
     
  16. Ninjay16

    Ninjay16 Full Member Verified Member

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    @BJ43 thats not the hemp twine from hempuniverse right? where did you get hemp fiber from?
     
  17. Arvidx

    Arvidx Senior Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

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    Nov 25, 2009
    Location:
    Tucson, Arizona, United States
    Here are a few pics of my current coil. It is parallel 28g and running around .8 ohms. There are before and after dryburn pics and a good glow pic.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
  18. piruned

    piruned Senior Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

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    Nov 30, 2012
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    huntsville, al
    arv that is a nice build. right now i got a figure 8 in mine. 30guage kanthal 3 wrap at 2Ω on 2mm ekowool. i also have 2mm juice wick on top. so far rocking out unmodified. i may play with your recommendations this weekend though if i feel up to it.
     
  19. BJ43

    BJ43 Vaping Master Verified Member ECF Veteran

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    Nov 27, 2008
    100% Degummed Hemp Fiber

    1kg Hemp fiber

    [​IMG]
     
  20. Ninjay16

    Ninjay16 Full Member Verified Member

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    Aug 10, 2013
    Location:
    BAY AREA, CA
    God dam man, thats crazy. Thanks. Do you find after cutting/opening the airflow pin it leaks sometimes with a vertical wick? i havent been having much luck after opening the airflow.

     
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