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what does it mean if my rebuildable atomizer won't fire on any of my devices other than my provari? lol... I cant get it to work on anything other than the provari?
alright I'll have to fiddle with that next. is it generally fiddled with without problem?
wait, the center pin IN the cap of my birkshire or do u mean in the 510 connection?
because it looks like the 1 in the 510 connection is surrounded by an O ring..
I can't pull it out and its already flush with the sides of the 510 connection anyway?
wait, the center pin IN the cap of my birkshire or do u mean in the 510 connection?
because it looks like the 1 in the 510 connection is surrounded by an O ring..
I can't pull it out and its already flush with the sides of the 510 connection anyway?
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I would try it on the atomizer first. It is possible to push the center pin down on some batteries though. Thankfully I've never had to pull any pins so far. I would do a search on here for pulling center pins. If it works on your provari and not on others it has to be that.
I don't know if anyone had mentioned this, but I think you need to oxidize your wick more. The shorts might be from your wick.Thanks for asking.
I'm getting shorts and can't get rid of them. fiddling with the coil doesn't seem to help.
I'll try the cotton method next.
I use a butane torch and am not in a hurry. Burning the wick til it gets a red glow. Then douce in water and lay on a paper towel. I do this about 3 to 4 times then I do it another 3 to 4 times with vg/pg mix. VG by itself is fine too. Hope this helps...Good luck.... Just
i have pulled plenty a PV pin and atomizer/carto pin in my day but the pin in my rba is encased in an O ring. i doubt that the RBA's center pin isn't making contact with 3 other PVs, they cant all be too low, and my RBA's pin isnt high, and its un-pullable. Idk :/
The only thing I can think of honestly is that the positive pins aren't making contact. If it isn't that then I have no idea.
I don't know if anyone had mentioned this, but I think you need to oxidize your wick more. The shorts might be from your wick.
I use a butane torch and am not in a hurry. Burning the wick til it gets a red glow. Then douce in water and lay on a paper towel. I do this about 3 to 4 times then I do it another 3 to 4 times with vg/pg mix. VG by itself is fine too. Hope this helps...Good luck.... Just
Thanks a lot. I also believe the wick might be the issue.
I've tried what you suggest (several times). I've tried with and without water, jack frost method, varying oxydation time and/or VG burns. Also tried cig paper method. I've tried thin/thick wicks, wicks with/without center hole etc. Yesterday I tried brushing a q-tip on the wick ('cotton method'), but didn't have any luck w that - strands didn't seem to want to attach themselves to the wick.
When rolling the wick I take special care making the edge snug so I can't feel it when sliding a fingertip along the wick.
I could write several tutorials on genny setup with mesh and coil from all the info I've read/watched - apart rfom the fact that I haven't yet made it work in practice
.
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what do tiny shorts look like? no pictures of daisy dukes pls LOL.
im trying to get an idea of how i can recognize whats going wrong with my coil and/or wick. is there a way to tell if its your coil or your wick thats shorting?
When you fire it you will see a small spark. Make sure to also look at the whole coil/wick all around because it could be be on the positive post side. Just keep pulsing it and looking for anything out of the norm.
I (as an improviser/maker of many things/professional level electronics solderer and jeweller) too am good with handling small objects as well. I also have lots of patience and a never say die persistence, but I was at it for weeks with my CHID with no luck at all. I actually went clinically insane('r') several times.
In the end when I got my 2nd CHID, I just got it to work - seems I just was not heating the wick near enough to get a good resistance layer on the surface, nor for it to wrap tight easily
- I cut a long strip of 500 mesh the right width plus a bit, then I heated the whole sheet on the stove until it glowed, and allowed it to cool fairly slowly.
I used a pin to get the first edge to curl back on itself, then removed the pin and rolled the wick up quite tight - checked thickness for good fit into the wick hole (ended up cutting a strip or three off the end) - nice tight fit - just able to push it in.
Next I unwrapped the wick with the aim of next wrapping it starting at the outer edge/other way in - the edge that was to be at the surface (the one that some folks fold), well I heated the hell ot of that and knocked off any glowing strands that wouldn't burn away - found this better for me than folding - the double-thickness ridge the fold produces was giving me coil-to-wick shorts.
Once that was done I heated the whole mesh again and let it cool slowly to re-anneal it, then rolled it again but starting from the outer edge of the mesh (used a pin to get that first curve again), but this time I rolled it *solid* tight, so it would almost just drop into the wick hole only just touching the sides.
I then heated the entire length of the wick until it glowed orange, and plunged under a running tap. Rolled it between my fingers again, chose the coil end, and heated that orange, then under cold tap, 3 more times (speed up drying out time between 'burns' by sucking or blowing the water from the wick).
The wick is now rigid but not brittle at all. I put it into the wick hole, removed atty centre nuts and post, and cut a section of (29 guage but it doesn't matter) kanthal, and gave it a gentle curve by pulling it between my thumb and a smooth drill bit.
I heated the kanthal gently over my stove until it glowed, then *slowly* raised it from the heat to cool (to anneal it needs to cool *slowly* - sudden cooling causes the molecules to crystalise in a hard form).
With the wick in the atty, but centre post etc. removed, I put one end of the kanthal under the ground/-ve screw, then wrapped the wire in the drection of the curve I'd given it, around the wick, *by turning the atty*, and not by moving the wire around the wick.
At the top of the wick I gave the kanthal one extra wrap, then used my thumb to hold the end against the wick to stop the coils loosening.
I put the centre pin and bottom 2 nuts back in place, pulled the end of the kanthal tight, undid last/extra wrap, then wrapped it round the cenrte post (I do it in the reverse direction/counter clockwise), put on the top nut and tightened against the wire - you can tighten it from the 2nd nut down 'upwards' as well as top nut downwards to avoid pulling the wire too much.
Gave the bottom and top of the wire a slight 'kink' as as been suggested in this thread, then dry-fired - all coils eventually glowed with *no* shorts from the outset, and I wrapped that coil *tight* - in fact it left tiny but visible indents in the mesh surface but no short issues at all, even on 5 volts with a 1.7-ish ohm coil.
Since this I've rebuilt my first CHID the same way and a new AGA-T with the same success, first time, and it only took me about 1/2 hour max each time.
If ya can make sense of what I wrote, I hope it helps - don't need any more insane people do we ',;~}~
DV!
In the end when I got my 2nd CHID, I just got it to work - seems I just was not heating the wick near enough to get a good resistance layer on the surface, nor for it to wrap tight easily
- I cut a long strip of 500 mesh the right width plus a bit, then I heated the whole sheet on the stove until it glowed, and allowed it to cool fairly slowly.
I used a pin to get the first edge to curl back on itself, then removed the pin and rolled the wick up quite tight - checked thickness for good fit into the wick hole (ended up cutting a strip or three off the end) - nice tight fit - just able to push it in.
Next I unwrapped the wick with the aim of next wrapping it starting at the outer edge/other way in - the edge that was to be at the surface (the one that some folks fold), well I heated the hell ot of that and knocked off any glowing strands that wouldn't burn away - found this better for me than folding - the double-thickness ridge the fold produces was giving me coil-to-wick shorts.
Once that was done I heated the whole mesh again and let it cool slowly to re-anneal it, then rolled it again but starting from the outer edge of the mesh (used a pin to get that first curve again), but this time I rolled it *solid* tight, so it would almost just drop into the wick hole only just touching the sides.
I then heated the entire length of the wick until it glowed orange, and plunged under a running tap. Rolled it between my fingers again, chose the coil end, and heated that orange, then under cold tap, 3 more times (speed up drying out time between 'burns' by sucking or blowing the water from the wick).
The wick is now rigid but not brittle at all. I put it into the wick hole, removed atty centre nuts and post, and cut a section of (29 guage but it doesn't matter) kanthal, and gave it a gentle curve by pulling it between my thumb and a smooth drill bit.
I heated the kanthal gently over my stove until it glowed, then *slowly* raised it from the heat to cool (to anneal it needs to cool *slowly* - sudden cooling causes the molecules to crystalise in a hard form).
With the wick in the atty, but centre post etc. removed, I put one end of the kanthal under the ground/-ve screw, then wrapped the wire in the drection of the curve I'd given it, around the wick, *by turning the atty*, and not by moving the wire around the wick.
At the top of the wick I gave the kanthal one extra wrap, then used my thumb to hold the end against the wick to stop the coils loosening.
I put the centre pin and bottom 2 nuts back in place, pulled the end of the kanthal tight, undid last/extra wrap, then wrapped it round the cenrte post (I do it in the reverse direction/counter clockwise), put on the top nut and tightened against the wire - you can tighten it from the 2nd nut down 'upwards' as well as top nut downwards to avoid pulling the wire too much.
Gave the bottom and top of the wire a slight 'kink' as as been suggested in this thread, then dry-fired - all coils eventually glowed with *no* shorts from the outset, and I wrapped that coil *tight* - in fact it left tiny but visible indents in the mesh surface but no short issues at all, even on 5 volts with a 1.7-ish ohm coil.
Since this I've rebuilt my first CHID the same way and a new AGA-T with the same success, first time, and it only took me about 1/2 hour max each time.
If ya can make sense of what I wrote, I hope it helps - don't need any more insane people do we ',;~}~
DV!
quick question, is the rolled ss mesh not supposed to be touching the bottom of the tank?
I'd only heard this suggested recently, but personally I'm not sure how much it matters - if your coils are making some electrical contact with your wick BUT your wick is somehow not shorting through the sides of the wick hole, then I suppose if your wick is bottomed out on the lower tank plate it will make it easier for current to flow from the coil turns to ground, and in that case lifting the wick from the base of the tank will help.
However, if you figure out making a proper sized wick that is well enough isolated from the coil, I can't see contact with the tank base making any difference at all - if the wick is not shorting through the wick hole but is the right size for the wick hole, then you're doing something right and just need to apply that to the wick area under the coil.
'IM(NS)HO' at any rate ',;~}~
DV
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