IPV D2 announced.
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Sorry there goes my ADDDDDDD again. Shoulda read my own post. I usually only get about 2-3 tanks out of a setup. After said tanks, I pull the cotton out, pulse the coil at 9 watts a few times, strum the coil with long sewing needle to knock off the black crusties and finally rewick. Good for another 3 tanks. I haven't changed the coil just the cotton is what I shoulda said.
Are you using kanthal or nickel I'm confused.
Edit
h you are using titanium. Well how do you dry burn that? It always says no liquid doesn't it?
LOL I'm not hitting with 1.21 jigawatts JK. I take it out of temp mode whether it's on one of my DNA devices or Yihi devices, set the wattage to about 9-10 watts, pulse it very shortly, 3-4 seconds, barely glows a dark red if even that. Just long enough to dry out the gunk so it flakes off when I strum it. I understand you can't dry burn Ti cause of Ti dioxide etc. There's a lot of scare tactics and TRUTH out there, you just have to have good judgment when it comes to what is too much and what your comfortable with doing. Obviously you don't wanna punch your Ti coil in the balls with 20 + watts for 10 seconds. Blue gold purple colors of Ti are OK, dull grey, yellowish you've gone too far. IMOAre you using kanthal or nickel I'm confused.
Edit
So what's the deal if I run a nickel coil in wattage mode? Do you know. I might try it next time I gunk up a nickel coil. Just don't wanna destroy my mod somehow haha
Ni200 is a little trickier. Depends on what your mod will handle down to in wattage mode. .2 is the D2's limits in kanthal I think. I never took my mods out of temp to clean my Ni200 coils. I just set it at its highest temp, highest wattage whether it's 600° F on my DNA devices or 572° F for my Yihi devices. Same process, take old cotton out, max out temp and watts, hit fire button about 5 times for 5-10 second intervals. Strum Crusty McCrustersons off coil, very gently cause nickel is way softer than Ti, rewick etc.
When I took my wick out and tried firing it in tc mode with nickel I got a "no liquid" on the screen and it wouldn't fire. so idk why you didn't get that when you removed your wick.
Try it at 572°. 10 joules. What ohm is your coil? Have any other TC devices?
The one I tried is .09 ohms. Trashed that and built one at .13ohms. I'll try that setting once this one gunks up. The new juice I'm using isn't as dark which shouldn't gunk it up as bad. Not as dark. I heard darker juices gunk it up faster. Too bad I like dark juices.
The only juice I have that doesn't make my coils look like they've been dragged through the mud is C.F. Milk and honey. All my other juices are horrible for gunk. Like teleos the milk, all my vapewild juices, infamous trill. All kinda revolve around fruit flavors and are sweet. Have you tried Ti yet? If you got a D2 it has a setting for it. Easier to work with, higher ohms, dual coils without 200 wraps. I have one RTA left with a Ni200 coil and it's days are numbered.
I would buy titanium. But it's much more expensive. I may buy some just to try it. But what real advantage is it other than the higher ohms
Batteries vent sometimes it is not something that can be avoided. It does not mean there is a issue with the device. A brand new battery can vent on first use because they are not perfect. TC takes more amps than running in wattage mode. I am not familiar with the cells OP used but I would only recommend Sony, Samsung and LG. Anything else and your taking a chance.
Mostly just personal preferences or concerns. I have both running and actually both are performing about the same.
Ni is .11ohm Dual coil, so .22ohm ea.
Ti is .33ohm single
Both are 8 wrap spaced coil setups.
Yah it works good and you get the advantage of the OCC larger airflow. The rba base is good for sure but it lacks in airflow. I modified mine, filed the barrel to allow more juice flow and drilled the pos pin air holes larger, and drilled down the air tube with a 3mm bit I think it was. The airflow is still tighter than a OCC even after all that. I dont know why these guy's act like that when were just enjoying our hobby. I dont buy stock heads ever, I rebuild my Atlantis heads too. Ill probably try and do a vertical nickel or titanium Atlantis one of these days.
One advantage I'll give to titanium is I heard you can run it contact and can't run nickel that way. I feel like I prefer contacts. Tho I guess it's hard to make contacts without making the coil glow. Just something that I heard tho. I'll stick with my cheaper wire. Vaping on a budget haha. I still wanna try Nichrome. So much hype on that.
I've had the same plastic puck of spider silk 26 gauge Ti now for over 2 months it's was more expensive than the Ni 28 gauge spool I bought in March but even that spool is a little more than half full, I forget the length but I bought it from giant vapes. I guess I'm saying you don't have to build a new coil everyday, just do some maintenance and the cost spreads itself out over time. Save up, get a decent size length of Ti from a vendor of your choice, make a few learning curve coils then once you've got it down make em and just maintain em.
Just got mine from FT (with sleeve). Man this thing is TIIINNYYY. I expected something small but this is even smaller than I was imagining
Well, I finally got my Vapor Shark 0.3 ohm ni200 coils for the Nautilus the other day. My initial results were good on the first coil with airflow set to max, just starting out at 10J and 370F. The coil read at about a 0.53 ohm resistance instead of 0.3 ohms when I first locked the resistance in on the D2, but I've come to expect that. I've had similar differences with other stock nickel coils - though all of them eventually failed. I didn't end up raising the max temp all that much and was getting good mouth-to-lung hits at about 11.5 joules. I had some gurgling with the Mini Nautilus at first, so I tried a few standard techniques to clear that up, including slowly re-thickening the juice blend I was using at the time. That, combined with raising the joules a bit, helped quite a bit. The MTL vape was good, then...
Yeah, fairly similar results as I had with the much cheaper Vape Only vAir-T 0.3 ohm ni200 Nautilus coils...suddenly the coil stopped working. The active resistence readout on the D2 display jumped just over 1.03 ohms - when previously I'd pretty consistently been hanging around 0.83 ohms with this coil. Then I got the dreaded "CHECK ATOMIZER" warning and the ohms readout was showing 0.00 ohms. I tried taking the tank off, took it apart, cleaned the contacts, re-tightened everything together, then snugged the tank back on the D2 nice and tight, and locked the coil in at about 0.8 ohms. But still nothing when I tried to fire it up, except the same "CHECK ATOMIZER" and 0.00 ohms displayed as before. I tried this several times.
Then I gave up on that Vapor Shark coil and instead tried another one from the same blister pack. This time when I tried to lock the coil I got a 0.8 or so ohms reading, and then the dreaded "CHECK ATOMIZER/0.00 ohms" displayed before I got any vapor at all. Even after I had reset back to the earlier lower settings I'd initially successfully used for the first coil before it gave up. Re-tightening the new coil assembly in the tank base, then re-tightening that into the D2 didn't change my results. Now very frustrated, I threw a regular Aspire 1.8 ohm stock BVC in, showing 1.93 ohms in regular Power Mode, and am running fine for hours and a day now at around 11.5 watts. I can now see how the extra airflow availble with one of those Beyond Vape Silo Tanks could really help provide a cooler high vapor MTL vape from the stock kanthal Aspire BVC heads.
What the heck? Are these nickel Vapor Shark Nautilus coils just as crappy as the nickel Vape Only Nautilus ones? I thought Vapor Shark coils were supposed to be pretty good? They certainly are priced like they should be! Or are they both just fine, but there is something crappy about my particular IPV D2, or just the device's design in general? This TC stuff so far has been extraordinarily frustrating. I'm getting a decent MTL vape using the stock kanthal 1.8 ohm Nautilus BVC head on the D2, but not as good as I was getting when the first Vapor Shark nickel coil was working properly (even if only for about an hour). I will, of course, eventually try the remaining Vapor Shark coils I have. But before I do, I was wondering if anyone had any further suggestions as to what I might try to improve my results? Right now I'm about ready to tell temperature control it can kiss my behind unless it can start reliably performing like it is supposed to.
Yeah, fairly similar results as I had with the much cheaper Vape Only vAir-T 0.3 ohm ni200 Nautilus coils...suddenly the coil stopped working. The active resistence readout on the D2 display jumped just over 1.03 ohms - when previously I'd pretty consistently been hanging around 0.83 ohms with this coil. Then I got the dreaded "CHECK ATOMIZER" warning and the ohms readout was showing 0.00 ohms. I tried taking the tank off, took it apart, cleaned the contacts, re-tightened everything together, then snugged the tank back on the D2 nice and tight, and locked the coil in at about 0.8 ohms. But still nothing when I tried to fire it up, except the same "CHECK ATOMIZER" and 0.00 ohms displayed as before. I tried this several times.
Then I gave up on that Vapor Shark coil and instead tried another one from the same blister pack. This time when I tried to lock the coil I got a 0.8 or so ohms reading, and then the dreaded "CHECK ATOMIZER/0.00 ohms" displayed before I got any vapor at all. Even after I had reset back to the earlier lower settings I'd initially successfully used for the first coil before it gave up. Re-tightening the new coil assembly in the tank base, then re-tightening that into the D2 didn't change my results. Now very frustrated, I threw a regular Aspire 1.8 ohm stock BVC in, showing 1.93 ohms in regular Power Mode, and am running fine for hours and a day now at around 11.5 watts. I can now see how the extra airflow availble with one of those Beyond Vape Silo Tanks could really help provide a cooler high vapor MTL vape from the stock kanthal Aspire BVC heads.
What the heck? Are these nickel Vapor Shark Nautilus coils just as crappy as the nickel Vape Only Nautilus ones? I thought Vapor Shark coils were supposed to be pretty good? They certainly are priced like they should be! Or are they both just fine, but there is something crappy about my particular IPV D2, or just the device's design in general? This TC stuff so far has been extraordinarily frustrating. I'm getting a decent MTL vape using the stock kanthal 1.8 ohm Nautilus BVC head on the D2, but not as good as I was getting when the first Vapor Shark nickel coil was working properly (even if only for about an hour). I will, of course, eventually try the remaining Vapor Shark coils I have. But before I do, I was wondering if anyone had any further suggestions as to what I might try to improve my results? Right now I'm about ready to tell temperature control it can kiss my behind unless it can start reliably performing like it is supposed to.
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