How is the ohm accuracy? What does the D2 read for the . 5 coil?
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IPV D2 announced.
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My D2 reads withing +/- .01 of my SX350 mod. My cheap eleaf ohm checker reads a little higher than both of them. I go by my Yihi boards for accurate readings and it has never got me in trouble.
I just learned that tank is plastic..
If that's true it means I won't order one because some juices I use will crack or melt it...like the ego type tanks...
Now if it is indeed Pyrex glass that would be great...just sayin..
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From:
Holy Land Mods
Material: 303 Stainless Steel with Polycarbonate tube
Since the original is not glass, I doubt the clone would be, the original is expensive for a non glass tank in my opinion, but I assume the shape makes that difficult if not extremely expensive to produce.
Nevertheless polycarbonate will crack with certain juices I use..
Will pass on this one for now..thx for the heads up..
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Can't remember which not to use in it?
Heck I have (2) dozen mods, each with their own tanks and Flavors.
Think about it. A Poly tank can be Crazed or cracked. A Glass tank ban be shattered. Both become useless at that point.
Why even risk damaging good glass tanks for non-cracker e-liquids?
I don't want to worry about what flavors are safe in a plastic tank..I don't use plastic tanks myself..never shattered a glass tank yet either....personal preferences I reckon...
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Been tinkering a little this morning with some subtank occ heads. I was able to rebuild one using 28g ni200 and its performing pretty good. After removing the old coil and cotton I drilled the juice flow holes to 3mm. I did it by hand with a bit the material is very soft so you dont need to even use your drill. On the same bit I wrapped a 6 wrap spaced coil and dropped it into the head. Then slide bit back thru the holes to hold the coil in place while you reinstall the grommet and positive pin. Japanese cotton of course, but rayon will work just fine too. I trim it with 1mm sticking out both sides. Then take something and stuff the excess cotton into the head and it will press up against the sides keeping any flooding from happening. Its real important that the outside leg (ground) lays into the tiny groove then trim it close. The positive leg also pull on it tight before trimming. These must be a solid connection or its not gonna work. I noticed that when removing it, and putting it back in if you do not press firmly on the pin of the head to firm up the connection it will not work right. I think that maybe pre-made heads that suck can be fiddled with to work right in this manner.
I can take a couple pics if someone needs them but its pretty straight forward for everyone here I think.
I can take a couple pics if someone needs them but its pretty straight forward for everyone here I think.
On your 28 gauge 6 wrap, what was your final ohm reading?
And do you find any advantages over building on the latest Kanger SubTank RBA?
I agree with the person above me. Doesn't the latest rba already have 3mm juice holes? I don't see the point of the pain of trying to rebuild premade coils. Rip always has tutorial vids on it tho so there must be a point.
.134 was my final reading. I just do it for entertainment, it would be up to you if its worth it.
I dont have the latest RBA head. I dont see your point. And if you follow Rip there is nothing wrong with that.
Two advantages- Price and airflow
Price of latest RBA is cheap, don't know about airflow advantages or not as I have to order my first nickel wire to do a build on the RBA. Having built on the tiny Egrip RBA, I think I can deal with the Kanger SubTank RBA just fine. Still not sure what gauge nickel to order but if I want to match the Kanger .12 ohm pre-builds, I keep seeing users, and YouTube videos of 28 gauge at between 8-10 wraps on a 3mm rod, to get to .12, steam engine site says 8 wraps. I also see a bunch of folks choosing 30 gauge.
Anyways, KUDOS for being able to rebuild those tiny Kanger coils, not something I think I would ever be tempted to bother with!
Forgot to ask, buying nickel wire, read that tempered version is easier to deal with over straight annealed version. Not sure of any other advantages or disadvantages. Opinions welcome?
We all have them
I wish they were all available in Glass. Easier to clean/maintain, but such is life.
FWIW: adding to my USB charger results, buried back in this thread. I have a 120 volt to 5 volt wall wart to 3mm charger for a blue tooth speaker called FoxL. The plug fits the D2, and is 5 volts, 2 amp output. Just tested this with no issue on a fairly depleted VTC4 battery. This along with my tests using 1 amp and 2.1 amp iPhone/iPad USB sources confirms the D2 can limit its input charge to its spec of 1 amp, took, about 2 hours, got 4.21 volts reading the battery out of mod with volt meter. I normally use an Xtar VP2 and my Sony VTC4's and 5's, come off that charger at approx. 4.19 volts. Don't know what charging algorithm is used in the D2, but it does give a full charge.
Not really seeing your point. The rba section is included with the STM. So it's still pretty cheap. The new rba section is like ten bucks too. I bought one.
I believe I posted the same response, but with a KUDOS. Why ask the same thing again?
Im thinking of picking one of these up as a TC back-up to my VS rDNA40 and was wondering how good the battery life is in TC mode titanium only? I would be using a Samsung 25r and I generally run my VS at 350* and 18w. Thanks in advance!
I did the same exact thing, except with Ti 26 gauge 6 wraps. And I used a drill. Works great been using the same head and coil for a month now. I leave a little dingle berry of cotton hanging out on both sides.
I use that battery at 17.5-20J 160-180C and always get a full day out of it. I swap the battery out with morning coffee and leave.
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