Making an Atomizer Coil 101 (Actual Working Methods Only)

[rbonie]

I see the loosely knitted 1/2 in size is listed under Fiberglass seals, 1)Tightly Braided, 2)Lossely Knitted.....where as options 3,4, are under Silica Seals, and 5 and 6 are under Ceramic Seals. Anyone else notice this?

Dont want to go ordering the wrong one, dont really like the taste of fiberglass either

Anyone willing to sell any shorter pieces PM me, wish they sold this stuff by the foot and not 5-10ft sections.

Sure will send you a foot or so.. Will PM you tonight when I get home

 

[48lowes]

After my previous success I haven't done as well as I'd expected to do. I sure have enough atty's to work with as I toasted 13 of them on my (newly built) 5v mod. I went back to 3.7v till I figure things out. So needless to say I'm back to rebuilding atty's. I'll get it sooner (hopefully) or later. Plus I'm thinking I should order 50 or so atty's for backup.
Never thought It'd be criminal for vaping but hey I live in Illinois.

 

[Vaporer]

48lowes,

I like to do them in groups not one at a time.
I'll make 5 coils one day, prep 5 cups another...........
It seems easier to do in small groups.
It is slow at 1st, but as you get each step down , you will get faster overall.
Then you can always be ahead.
I think soldering is the most critical point, getting a good joint and that takes flux & heat. The pointed soldering tip helps a lot too.

I have small containers that all screw together. I have pre cut NiCh wires in one section, leads cut and ends cleaned in another..........

It just like a small assembly line one evening.
Keep at it and you'll do fine.

 

[48lowes]

Vaporer and rbonie.
You are a great support team keeping this thread alive. The advice pointers and cheering section is very much appreciated.

 

[Vaporer]

Seems there has been some changes on the Mcmaster Carr Silica rope page.
The 1/2" was the best deal since when unbraided it goes a long way.
nothing wrong with using the 3/8" or 1/4" as long as you can get a core amount to wind over , abt .060-.080 (1/16").
The correct numbers on the page for Silica are:
1/4" 8828K71
3/8" 8828K72
1/2" 8828K73

Your decision on what you want vs shipping costs.

Hope that helps.

Vaporer

 

[kai kane]

Vaporer and rbonie.
You are a great support team keeping this thread alive. The advice pointers and cheering section is very much appreciated.

another cheer and kudos for the great thread!

 

[Hawk52501]

Whats their shipping run?

 

[JoeMoto]

What adhesive are you guys using to glue your wires to the bottom of the cup so they don't push up when you reassemble the connector into the tube? I've tried hi temp silicone and some tacky glue but neither seem to adhere to the epoxy coated magnet wire.

 

[Vaporer]

I don't glue at all. I keep them twisted during reassembly then when I'm ready to attach them I put a 90* bend against the bottom of the atty, in a circular motion, so when attached I just give a light twist and the wires lay right down and never move.
The bend would be like laying the wires flat against the atty bottom in a clockwise directon, circular, both going the same direction, not towards the middle.

Hope that helps.

 

[JoeMoto]

Thanks Vaporer, I'll try that. I have a problem with trying to slide the connector back into the tube. It will push the coil up out of the cup.

 

[Vaporer]

Use the 90* bend flat against the bottom and you won't push it up at all.
I "spin" the atty sleeve down onto the connector so when I push it up in there is little to no gap when its going in the tube.

Edit:
Here ya go, this is what mine look like just before putting in the tube. Its been lightly twisted as I described to take up any extra wire.
Look at the last pic in post #1,
www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/ato...your-510-atomizer-step-step-801-901s-too.html

 

[hova]

so have you tried using fiberglass mat yet vaporer? im going to mess with my rebuilding here in a little bit , just wondered if there is actually a difference in silica fiber and glass fiber (glass has silica but usually some other stuff too , still resists heat very well , and there are stove seals that are fiberglass , so yeah...)

just curious , also : if you were to take 4 sections of 1ohm each , and put them all facing out (you know , parallel to each other , would you draw 8 amp then?


-hov

 

[Vaporer]

I played with the matt before I found the silica. If I go with the GreenCig style, the glass wins as it is more springy when wet.

The 4 1 ohm resistor in parallel become .25 ohms.
PARALLEL RESISTOR CALCULATOR

That would be a draw @ 3.7v of 14.8A and produce 54.76 watts of heat. Kinda warm.
Ohm's Law Calculator

Resistors don't work the same when paralleled.
Stock attys at 3.2 ohms are producing abt 4 watts of heat.

 

[hova]

yeah thats what i came up with (i didnt do exact math though , damn!) . i was kicking the idea around in my head the other day of the 4 strand , straight element atomizer design. i found a nice place for ceramic rod , and i was going to try a wetbox , no filler atty , but when i looked at it , it was going to pull a crapton of power. some reason my original idea said they would all share the same current they (currently) use , and distribute it among the 4 all the same...


workin on something that looks ridiculous on the board , but in practice , if it actually works , will be loverly...


-hov

 

[Vaporer]

hov, if you did 4 8ohm coils your overall would be 2 ohms. You'd have to go with thin wire to get it all in a standard small cup. If its a pill fob type, shouldn't be a problem.
If you went with Dan's style, you could use 8 small screws. Box shape them or just parallel side by side.
The overall heat will be split among the 4 also. Much below 3 watts per coil wont be hot enough to produce vapor. I've done it at 2.5 watts on a single coil and it was deff weak.

I like posting the links for the calculators because many can use them. Some just don't like asking and work while lurking. Thats ok. Participation is more fun. There are never any bad questions when you don't know the answer.

You've came a long way since 1st posting.
We all make ridiculous looking things till we get what we really want.
Make it work 1st, then make it pretty.
Anxious to see what you come up with.

The G120 is a sweet piece though. A little pricey, but its maintainability offsets it a lot.
Full price is usually abt $100 with 2 carto "heads". An extra set of heads is usually abt $50 for 6ea. Pretty much a lifetime supply when you can mod the carto.
Overall, Its cheap compared to buying a bunch of diff units or mods. If you like the smaller cigar type, the DSE701 is it to me. Once you remove the brass ring it all slides out and the coil is replaceable. Good size reservoir(abt 1/2 the 120), but uses the 10440 batteries so you need a spare battery to make it through the day.

If you like to switch from 3.7 -5 -6v or anywhere in between, even with a drip tip, the Buzz is it hands down.

 

[hova]

ive always had a problem with current. never got a straight answer if its actually like water where it pushes , or the circuit "draws" current... i do a lot of automotive , and im sort of a "burnout" , so it is just sort of all jumbled together.

i was just thinking the other day "i havent heard voltage drop once , on here" ... dont really think i have heard of current limiting or constant current...


and i really hope i get a gift card(s) for 100$ , cause i will give you two guesses what its going to be used for. i have already explained it to the better half , and she actually ok'd it.. . . . i think shes just tired of hearing me explain why this is better than last time...lol...


i basically told her , that now i have all the tools to rebuild it , she has seen them work , i told her i might have to buy a box of cartos , but thats it. juice... done.

on another note , a LR atty , say on a 20 or 30mah , 3c umm...yeah , you could probably get a solid minute of vape correct?

one more Q for you ; is there danger in using magnetic induction around lipos?


-hov

 

[Vaporer]

Thats why I post the calculators.......
It takes the questions of "did I do that right" out.
Current is dependent on the resistance. If you had a 10A supply and the resistance drew 1A at that voltage, that's it. The resistance is a "short" to gnd and depending on what the resistance is controls the current draw via availability. It won't draw more just because its available. It can draw less if not available.

Scottbee has a good thread on voltage drop.
The penstyle batts hardly ever give 3.7v under a load.
We are looking at a 360ma (discharge rate rate of ?C) in a mega batt penstyle.
Minis can be around 130ma. I'm not sure they can deliver a reliable 1A needed for a standard atty. I have measured it, but not the duration of discharge rate. Seemed pointless with the size of the battery. Its to small to go for long anyway. Knowing it can do it for 1 or 3 min is pretty insignificant.

Not much info on them but I doubt they are high C discharge rate until you get a larger mod 900ma + battery or above.
At that point you are abt 1C discharge. maybe 2C on a LR atty.

On the LR attys, some are 2 ohm some are 1.7 ohm. You'd need to run it through the calculations and see what the current rate is for the voltage you are measuring.
I'm not sure why anyone would be concerned with 20-30ma for a min vape.
I have some 10ma for my micro rc stuff that are 10C. Not cheap for the power, but when you need it and the light wt. well.......

Current drop will fall with the existing voltage drop . Thats a given, no way around it. Again, with the pen styles at a max of abt 360ma and a full charge of 4.15v, you can measure the draw and watch it fall as the voltage falls away. One of those things thats gonna happen when you suck 5-10x the discharge rate from the battery.3

I've never read anything on magnetic induction effecting lipos. Doesnt mean it doesnt exist though.

Do you plan on vaping in a particle accelerator?

 

[hova]

i dont really think we should talk about particle accelerators or altitude , but i can tell you this. magnetic induction is an easy way to avoid ugly connectors , and lots of people already use them.

and my question on the discharge rate , is would you rather have something you could sit and smoke all day and od on nicotine , or something you can pick up , hit 10 or 20 times , and put down for a couple minutes.

dont get me wrong , i like my drybox , but when im driving , i need something to limit my vaping. i has no self control...


-hov

 

[Vaporer]

My bad attempt at a joke on the particle accelerator. It is a fair question if you were vaping near a high source such as an MRI or certain high electro-magnetic generating equipment.

If you are referring to the small neodymium "super magnets", many do use them for electrical connectors. I use them on some small lipos for my rc stuff when I need a quick swap feature and no room for a plug. 1mm N50's.

Its stated many places that people tend to self medicate their levels of nicotine. You will start to feel ill before you attain OD status. Vaping nicotine absorbs slower than analogs so people tend to find themselves doing it much more frequently than the time they smoked. Oddly many of those people are "ok" on their nicotine levels but require other chemicals in tobacco such as MAOI's. DVap has a nice category table on his blog addressing this. I was a chain vapor in the begining and increasing the nic mg in the liquid did me no good. I felt I lost both hands. DVap extracted WTA from tobacco and a test was performed. I may vape 1-1.5ml now on a heavy day. If you find yourself constantly vaping, it may not be the nic you are craving. Stop by the smokeless thread.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...s-under-your-lip-your-nose-right-now-747.html

You could vape 0 nic when driving hov, but a snus does me well for a couple hrs easy. Felt like I grew 2 hands back.

 

[hova]

i must have made a bad joke too , i was just kidding about not talking about it.


im talking about using magnet wire coils , as inductors. i have done it a little before , i just dont remember how to set up the pulse width and whatnot. that was 3 or 4 lifetimes ago...

its basically an open transformer. no need for plugs. at all. slide the end where the coil is , into the slot , and it just charges. sort of like the new phone pad charger station thingies, only its been around forever...im suprised we dont see it more.

it might be hella inefficient , but i found some small 30mah lipos , probably for a camera or micro rc car , but im thinking basically , i would have a charger that would be built into the base of a 12v car plug , so its flush , the coil would be inside there.

the battery would be on the end of a m401 or other exposed bridge type atty , which i was thinking of just using a mini jst connector for , and basically your ecig would be twice as long as an atomizer.

this is all dependant on how small the coil can get , for one , and for two , how easily i could replicate an auto battery.


i just get tired of a big heavy thing.


and when plugged into the car cig lighter , was thinking of having a small plexi ring around the edge light up to let you know charge status , but i was envisioning the coil down at the bottom of the plug and the electronics around the tube , and basically the whole battery would fit in the cig lighter while its charging.

you could pull your cap and drip while charging , or use a drip tip and just let it hang in your mouth.


judging by everything i have calc'd , the average draw only uses 5mah worth of power (if mah ratings are anything to go by.. ) . so a 20 or 30 mah battery on a 2ohm should last a little longer than 4 or 6 puffs , but for the 1 minute (literally) that the recharge is , its worth it to me , to let it cool off and wick and whatnot...


of course there would be a rush for cheap camera or tiny rc cars , and the price would skyrocket , so just ignore everyting up there ^^^


-hov