The Needle Method
For those that may not like trying to thread pull the wick in, this way works well.
You can make 2 at a time, more if your form is longer.
First, start off with a needle, or anything smooth that will slide out when finished. Take a length of wick longer than the form and secure it at each end. I use thread and a slip knot. Notice I left a bit of extra past the thread.
This will be the long wick end to go under the bridge.
Made 2 pre-soldered wire lengths and wrapped them up. The coil spacing can be adjusted, carefully, after wrapping. It doesn't have to be perfect, just don't let them touch when finished. Wrap tightly. When the needle is slid out the wick will expand leaving air space for the wicking action.
Slide the needle out and cut the wick in the middle. Now we have 2 coils ready to install. Nail clippers to snip the thread.
Most soldering tips are 60* points. When doing fine work you need a narrow point to see what you are doing. It also prevents solder blobs on your wire since when wiped clean just before soldering, not much solder is there. To make a tip like this, if you look they unscrew from the iron. Put it in a drill and lightly pass a file on it till you have the taper you want. Then polish the tip with360 & 400 grit paper till shiney. Removing the scratches from the filing help keep the tip from eroding. The drill chuck may dent the threads. It will still thread back in since its soft copper.
Screw the tip back in the iron tight. Heat it up and re-tin the tip with solder and wipe clean with a damp sponge or wet folded paper towel. Its ready.
How do you know if your coil is the right diameter? Have your atty cup close by and after a couple of wraps hold it over the cup where it is going in. Air has to get by the sides and you can also check what your length will be. It's easier to stretch the coil than compress it. Best to keep the winds close, you can always slide them apart if needed.
When in place in the cup it should be so the feed holes are level or the coil center is slightly above them. This forces the mist to hit the coil when you draw on it.
When considering the gap on the sides, remember that carbon will form eventually so don't get it to close or it may clog faster than normal.
Of course, once you can make your own you can just replace it!
Taking a picture or mentally noting the original coils position, height and dia will be a big plus.
Occasionally, you will notice your soldering iron just isn't as hot as it was. The most common reason is the oxide crust has formed on the threads from heating and cooling. With pliers, loosen the tip some, give it a few twists and tighten it back firmly. 99% of the time it will be back to full heat.
For those that may not like trying to thread pull the wick in, this way works well.
You can make 2 at a time, more if your form is longer.
First, start off with a needle, or anything smooth that will slide out when finished. Take a length of wick longer than the form and secure it at each end. I use thread and a slip knot. Notice I left a bit of extra past the thread.
This will be the long wick end to go under the bridge.
Made 2 pre-soldered wire lengths and wrapped them up. The coil spacing can be adjusted, carefully, after wrapping. It doesn't have to be perfect, just don't let them touch when finished. Wrap tightly. When the needle is slid out the wick will expand leaving air space for the wicking action.
Slide the needle out and cut the wick in the middle. Now we have 2 coils ready to install. Nail clippers to snip the thread.
Most soldering tips are 60* points. When doing fine work you need a narrow point to see what you are doing. It also prevents solder blobs on your wire since when wiped clean just before soldering, not much solder is there. To make a tip like this, if you look they unscrew from the iron. Put it in a drill and lightly pass a file on it till you have the taper you want. Then polish the tip with360 & 400 grit paper till shiney. Removing the scratches from the filing help keep the tip from eroding. The drill chuck may dent the threads. It will still thread back in since its soft copper.
Screw the tip back in the iron tight. Heat it up and re-tin the tip with solder and wipe clean with a damp sponge or wet folded paper towel. Its ready.
How do you know if your coil is the right diameter? Have your atty cup close by and after a couple of wraps hold it over the cup where it is going in. Air has to get by the sides and you can also check what your length will be. It's easier to stretch the coil than compress it. Best to keep the winds close, you can always slide them apart if needed.
When in place in the cup it should be so the feed holes are level or the coil center is slightly above them. This forces the mist to hit the coil when you draw on it.
When considering the gap on the sides, remember that carbon will form eventually so don't get it to close or it may clog faster than normal.
Of course, once you can make your own you can just replace it!
Taking a picture or mentally noting the original coils position, height and dia will be a big plus.
Occasionally, you will notice your soldering iron just isn't as hot as it was. The most common reason is the oxide crust has formed on the threads from heating and cooling. With pliers, loosen the tip some, give it a few twists and tighten it back firmly. 99% of the time it will be back to full heat.
