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I've noticed too. Disturbing. I know stock coils can short out because I had one do just that in the middle of a pull. If I had my tank on a mech it could have been a disaster.
I only remember reading about springs collapsing @ the Reos forum but don't recall any failures otherwise.
Maybe everyone was using Kicks or 1C fuses then. I'm not sure a clone Smok Kick would be an alternative for me.
Reo guys had successfully used auto fuses at some point. Maybe that?
Bad coils don't lead to exploding mech.... Bad BATTERIES cause exploding mods......
Shorted coils lead to burned out coils.. not vented batteties.
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Shorted coils lead to burned out coils.. not vented batteties.
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We were vaping at less than 5 amps..... when REOs came out... in fact the REO spring would collapse at just over 5 amp or so. As a safety feature.
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I was not aware of this. So your saying it's safe to use stock coils on a mech mod?
Provided the ohms are safe for your battery.... vape away..... biggest issue with factory heads is finding ones that perform well at Battery Voltage.
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Ok, thank you for the information. I was not aware. I was under the impression from reading and research that stock coils on a mech mod was a big no no. Always learning I guess.
Been seeing much talk about not using factory coils on a mech lately. Did I miss something in ecf's history about exploding mechs from using them?
I'd like to place my Nautilus tank on my GP Paps someday....
Ok, thank you for the information. I was not aware. I was under the impression from reading and research that stock coils on a mech mod was a big no no. Always learning I guess.
If a badly wound asymmetrical coil is going to arc, across itself or to the coil housing, it's going to happen regardless of the power source, mech or variable.
Building a repeatable, consistent baseline practically eliminates that concern. So it won't be happening with one of these…
The remaining real concern with atomizers on mechanicals is the 510 connection. That the positive pin be adequately protruding such that it and the (negative) threads don't both simultaneously contact the battery positive causing a short. The positive pin on some atomizers is floating. That means that the pin can be forced to slide up too high into the 510 when screwed on too tightly. Great graphic illustration of this below thanks to the folks at Zamplebox®…
No worries. Vape safe.
Good luck.
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Most of the coilhead atties are meant for use on regulated mods....... in that the construction of the coil either requires boosted or reduced voltage to perform.......Ok, thank you for the information. I was not aware. I was under the impression from reading and research that stock coils on a mech mod was a big no no. Always learning I guess.
Note the wattage ranges on coils ....... if say a coil is .5ohm and rated at 40watts or more..... a single batt mech will run it at 44.1 watts in PERFECT world. Reality is more likely something less than 40 due to physics alone. And that's only when using a freshly charged battery. ... wattage reduces... with each firing of the mod....
Mechs work best with rebuilable atties. Because the regulator on a mech is your brain .... the coil is the only electrically adjustable component. No + - buttons.
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When I started vaping I started on a Protank and ego battery..... coil heads just weren't doing it for me.... so one day I Google how to make a coil for ecig..... Found Steam-engine.org a vaping forum... I used this Web site and a good volt ohm meter to learn to build my coils..... FWIW I ignored the forum re safety...most is hysterical anyway... Used brain backed up by steam-engine.org for that
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Actually it isn't the 'coil' in a replaceable head type delivery device that might/possibly cause an issue when used on a mechanical.
It is the insulator in the 510 connection of the delivery device.
IF it splits, cracks, melts or in any way stops doing its job you have a direct short between the center pin (positive) and the 510 outer wall ( negative). The insulators used in most replaceable head type delivery devices are not of the same quality as those used in a typical decent quality RBA/RTA/RDA.
Sure, a failed insulator may be relatively rare, it can & does happen.
Then there is the whole pseudo / fake / false hybrid direct to battery contact type mechanicals / top cap.
A delivery device used on a fake / false hybrid must have a protruding non spring loaded / fixed center pin.
It is the insulator in the 510 connection of the delivery device.
IF it splits, cracks, melts or in any way stops doing its job you have a direct short between the center pin (positive) and the 510 outer wall ( negative). The insulators used in most replaceable head type delivery devices are not of the same quality as those used in a typical decent quality RBA/RTA/RDA.
Sure, a failed insulator may be relatively rare, it can & does happen.
Then there is the whole pseudo / fake / false hybrid direct to battery contact type mechanicals / top cap.
A delivery device used on a fake / false hybrid must have a protruding non spring loaded / fixed center pin.
You're right about that. After the Protank's initial success Kanger introduced silicone grommets. Folks were complaining bitterly that the original rubber insulators often charred affecting flavor. Again, this was due to their wildly irregularly wound construction. You simply could not rebuild using them. When moisture accumulated in the assemblies they positives would wrench and bend often too close or in contact with housings. Resistance would go all over the place or you'd short. After all the clamor that resulted Kanger reverted to to a better stiffer less slippery composite grommet. Insulator shorts are far more common than folks think.
My wish is that more producers provide quality spares with their devices to encourage replacement. You see that would be better product safety. But I've not heard significant outcry from the retail space about this. So they're open to be blamed when things break including batteries. We reap what we sow.
Good luck.
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Wow. Sorry, but this is not correct. A shorted coil is a short, and therefore could cause massive battery issues. That’s why many, including myself, do not encourage the use of replaceable coil heads on mechs. It isn’t because we think it’s a waste of money, it’s because it could lead to a waste of a face!
This assumes one forgot basic mech safety and vaped a bad coil. Test then vape.
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I posted earlier in this thread how I had a stock coil short on me on a regulated mod while I was vaping it. It was working fine, then shorted in the middle of a pull and the mod no longer worked (protected). What would have happened if I was using the same coil on a mech?
I would not recommend using a Nautilus tank on any mech mod, and here's why:Been seeing much talk about not using factory coils on a mech lately. Did I miss something in ecf's history about exploding mechs from using them?
I'd like to place my Nautilus tank on my GP Paps someday....
Take a minute some time and push the center pin of your Nautilus base down and out, be careful because the center pin is a three part piece with a spring in the center. Now push out the white rubber grommet that keeps that pin assembly from shorting out. you will notice that it is a rather soft, and thin insulator ring, easily could be shorted from over tightening, or material degradation over time. In a regulated device this is of little concern as most all of them have short protection, but on a mech, could cause a bad day for the user.
If you like the Nautilus coils and want to use them on a mech, a much safer attie by design would be the Kabuki, with the 510 adaptor base. These use a delrin insulator, also the clones from fast tech that I have, which come in a 510 configuration, are utilizing a delrin insulator with a grub screw to set the center pin to the center pin of the coil, these are pretty much short proof by design.
The point is, the flimsy silicone insulators on factory coils can fail during use, which would not be apparent in a pre-flight checkup, as it were. If that happens on a regulated device, the device will protect you. If that happens on a mech mod, it's an instant hard short, right next to your face-holes.
I too respectfully disagree with that statement. A short is a short, and a battery will not give a damn where the short is. As for the coil just popping .... well sometimes, but not always.
I used "factory coils" for several years on a mechanical. They were called 510's, and 306'es, and even HH-357s back then. Used a lot of cartomizers on a mechanical, still do on occasion. "Low Resistance" was 1.5 - 2 Ohms.
Would I use a sub ohm factory coil on a mechanical??? NOT A CHANCE!!!!
In fact I won't do any type of sub ohm on a mechanical.
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