Mechanical mod or VV/VW

Discussion in 'New Members Forum' started by Kenndall, Jan 9, 2014.

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  1. Kenndall

    Kenndall Full Member

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    San Antonio, TX, USA
    Hi everyone. I have been vaping for about a month so far using an 1100 mAh eGo style battery with a Kanger T3S. I enjoy it very much, but I would like to upgrade in the future to either a mechanical or VV mod. I understand the difference between the two types. Which one would be the best to use with a RBA, or is that just a personal preference. Thank you for your input.
     
  2. generic mutant

    generic mutant Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

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    UK
    Personal preference.

    The principal reason to pick a mechanical (as far as vape goes, ignoring considerations like cost or aesthetics) is that it doesn't have a high-current (amp) shutoff.

    A high quality variable (such as some of the DNA mods) has a sufficiently high current limitation to more or less make this irrelevant.

    So in a sense, the best of all worlds is going to be a high quality variable.

    Most variables don't have this high amp limit though, so you'll be limited in how low resistance coils you can run. If you want to run low resistance coils (which I'd strongly advise you not to after only vaping for one month) a mech would be the next best option.

    Otherwise, a general VV/VW gives you lots of flexibility.
     
  3. Dakota Jim

    Dakota Jim Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

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    I use a VV/VW with all of my rba's (including a mech with a kick) because I have no need to vape above 12 watts - all my eliquids come through with the best flavor at 7.5 watts for me and I am not a cloud chaser so subohm has no attraction to me.

    The starter mod I would recommend would be the MVP2 - no extra batteries to buy - VV/VW - has an ohm reader for checking you coils on RBA's - can charge your cell phone in an emergency - slices - dices- makes julienne fries - and boy can it catch fish (sorry, 70's infomercial flashback)

    oh, and welcome to the ECF
     
  4. Kenndall

    Kenndall Full Member

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    Thanks for the info. Forgive my lack of knowledge, but what is a high-current shutoff for.
     
  5. generic mutant

    generic mutant Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

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    It's a safety shut-off, a.k.a. short circuit protection - think of it like a fuse.

    You start pulling too much power out of the battery (too many amps) and the thing stops firing.

    Mechanicals don't have that, so you have to know how low a resistance you can safely run. The lower you go, the higher the current drawn, and the closer you are to exceeding your battery's safe operating current.

    Or, of course, you can put a fuse in yourself. I use the Kamry, though the Vape Safe seems to have a good reputation too.
     
  6. B1sh0p

    B1sh0p Super Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

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    You can do both pretty cheaply. MVP 2 $40. K100 $20. Nitecore charger $15. 2 Batteries $15. Igo L $10. That's $100 for 2 proper devices that will vape great.
     
  7. djsvapour

    djsvapour Vaping Master ECF Veteran

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    If I went back and did it all again, I wouldn't bother with a mechanical mod.

    However, given that things break and the e-cig world might indeed end soon if it all gets banned, I'm glad I have some. In fact, I'm buying another tonight.

    Work that out. :)
     
  8. Kenndall

    Kenndall Full Member

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    Thanks Dakota. I think I might go with the SVD. I know batteries are only good for so many charges. Buying new batteries I think would be a lot cheaper than buying a whole new mod.

    Mutant, is the Kamry a mod or is that a fuze that you put in one?
     
  9. Dana A

    Dana A Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

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    It's for safety. I cannot recommend strongly enough that you get a VV unit! If you don't understand battery chemistry and all the ohms/wats/strain on your battery stuff you can get your self in some real trouble with only a mech and a rebuildable. The safest thing to do would be to either learn all of this before buying a mech or just get a VV mod with safety features.
     
  10. Kenndall

    Kenndall Full Member

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    Where would I get an MVP 2 for $40?
     
  11. generic mutant

    generic mutant Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

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    Kamry make all kinds of stuff, but I was referring to the fuse then. You only use fuses in mechanicals though, regulated (variable) mods have them built in.
     
  12. B1sh0p

    B1sh0p Super Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

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    101 Vape.

    PennyVaper is a good resource everyone should know.
     
  13. Tinkiegrrl

    Tinkiegrrl Ultra Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

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    Vaping Town on Ebay has the MVP 2 for around $40. You may also want to keep an eye on 101vape.com. They're out of stock for now, but they were selling the MVP2 for $40 as well.
     
  14. Kenndall

    Kenndall Full Member

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    Thanks for all of the info and quick responses. I will look into those B1sh0p.
     
  15. maxd

    maxd Senior Member ECF Veteran

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    in the other words:
    - VV/VWs' normally have a cut/stop working,
    if your(self made) coil resistance is below 1.1-1.5 Ohms
    OR if you need high Watts, for this or that reason.
    Mechanical mods are more simple and have no cuts
    but might burn if not used properly.

    - dimensions are the other reason,
    normally VV/VWs are slightly bigger

    - some VV/VW are more handy to use as might contain charger already inside.

    So, your great and simple question might not have the same simple answer :)

    but the points above to consider.
     
  16. el Jexican

    el Jexican Super Member Verified Member ECF Veteran

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    It all depends what you're trying to do. I have both and honestly only use my MVP2 w/PT2 for road trips (don't drip and drive people!). Sub ohm vaping with a dripper, for me, is far superior to anything I have experienced with a VV device. Even if I build a higher ohm coil to run on the MVP or Zmax. The 11 watts that the MVP puts out is just not strong enough, IMO, for a RDA. The 15 watts the Zmax puts out is a lot better but still a little too cool of a vape for my liking.

    With all that being said, if I had to choose between a mech or a VV device I would go with a mech, simply because of the durability and reliability of it. But, I also understand battery limitations, ohms law, and have a digital multi meter that I use every time I change the cotton out....safety first. And its not overdrawing the battery because of a low ohm coil that I'm worried about, its those damn hard shorts!

    Although, I am thinking about purchasing a DNA 20 mod. 20 watts of power...mmmmmm. Its either that or a ReoGrand...decisions decisions.
     
  17. Kenndall

    Kenndall Full Member

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    Dec 27, 2013
    Location:
    San Antonio, TX, USA
    So would I need to get a mod to operate an RDA with my current batteries(eGo style 1100 mAh) or do I really need to upgrade to a mod.
     
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