New vertical subtank occ coils

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Spike_41

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I haven't had any VOCC coils to inspect myself, but I THINK they are press-fitted from the bottom.

You have the bottom pin that is removable like all OCC coils where the coil legs run through, but I THINK the threaded part on the bottom is separate from the top and those two parts are press fitted together. So basically you have a large square cap on top which is press fitted on to the base.

If you look at this picture:

HTB1czOiIpXXXXXVXXXXq6xXFXXXl.jpg


You can see what appears to be a separate metal interior vs the exterior cap in both the top and through the wicking hole on the side. It would probably be a real PITA to remove the bottom section without damaging the threads, but I can almost guarantee you that's how these VOCC coils come apart. I'll be willing to bet that the seam is just underneath the o-ring on the top of the threads.

Nyiddle, maybe look and see next chance you get?
 

nyiddle

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I haven't had any VOCC coils to inspect myself, but I THINK they are press-fitted from the bottom.

You have the bottom pin that is removable like all OCC coils where the coil legs run through, but I THINK the threaded part on the bottom is separate from the top and those two parts are press fitted together. So basically you have a large square cap on top which is press fitted on to the base.

If you look at this picture:

HTB1czOiIpXXXXXVXXXXq6xXFXXXl.jpg


You can see what appears to be a separate metal interior vs the exterior cap in both the top and through the wicking hole on the side. It would probably be a real PITA to remove the bottom section without damaging the threads, but I can almost guarantee you that's how these VOCC coils come apart. I'll be willing to bet that the seam is just underneath the o-ring on the top of the threads.



EDIT:

BINGO. Found this pic...

verocc.jpg


You can clearly see that the bottom post is separate from the square top with the seam between the two pieces just outside of the white o-ring at the top of the threading. Kanger builds and wicks the coils on the stem and then press fits it into the square top cap. The question is, how hard is it to remove that stem from the top cap? If it can be removed fairly easily then it shouldn't be too difficult to rebuild these coils.

Nyiddle, maybe look and see next chance you get?

Will check during my lunch break, but from what I could examine previously, unless you're willing to brute force (potentially destroy) it, I don't think it's possible.

Not to mention these heads have now been on the market for a full month or two and still no one has released a video/pictures of them rebuilding it. All of the videos/pics of people pulling these apart ends with a pretty big mess of broken metal and "bits and pieces." It's looking pretty grim for this one, boys.

Will update in a lil bit.
 
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Completely Average

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Will check during my lunch break, but from what I could examine previously, unless you're willing to brute force (potentially destroy) it, I don't think it's possible.

Not to mention these heads have now been on the market for a full month or two and still no one has released a video/pictures of them rebuilding it. All of the videos/pics of people pulling these apart ends with a pretty big mess of broken metal and "bits and pieces." It's looking pretty grim for this one, boys.

Will update in a lil bit.

That's sort of what I'm expecting.

I can see where the pieces were put together, but that doesn't mean they can be taken apart. All Kanger had to do was put a small press tab on the ends of the stem piece so it snapped into place and it would be virtually impossible to remove it without destroying it. Another possibility is that it's threaded into place and torqued down to keep it from unscrewing easily.

The one thing I would like to see is someone take a coil that's been used and is ready to throw away, pull the pin out of the bottom so the legs are freed, and then remove the coil and cotton from the outer casing. Even if the coil and cotton is destroyed getting a look at how it's assembled inside that square top cap could answer all of the questions. Even if it is held in place with tabs it may be possible to release the stem from the square cap once the coil is removed, which would allow the coils to be rebuilt.

Or it may be in there so tight that you would need a hydraulic press and a flat pin going through the top of the square cap to press the bottom stem back out. Won't know until we can get a look inside the thing with no coil or cotton to get in the way.


Either way it seems like a lot of metal to throw away. I'm surprised there isn't some way to recycle these things.
 
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nyiddle

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That's sort of what I'm expecting.

I can see where the pieces were put together, but that doesn't mean they can be taken apart. All Kanger had to do was put a small press tab on the ends of the stem piece so it snapped into place and it would be virtually impossible to remove it without destroying it. Another possibility is that it's threaded into place and torqued down to keep it from unscrewing easily.

The one thing I would like to see is someone take a coil that's been used and is ready to throw away, pull the pin out of the bottom so the legs are freed, and then remove the coil and cotton from the outer casing. Even if the coil and cotton is destroyed getting a look at how it's assembled inside that square top cap could answer all of the questions. Even if it is held in place with tabs it may be possible to release the stem from the square cap once the coil is removed, which would allow the coils to be rebuilt.

Or it may be in there so tight that you would need a hydraulic press and a flat pin going through the top of the square cap to press the bottom stem back out. Won't know until we can get a look inside the thing with no coil or cotton to get in the way.


Either way it seems like a lot of metal to throw away. I'm surprised there isn't some way to recycle these things.

Yeah I just tried pretty hard (and sacrificed a head) to try and get it off. It seems like it's press-fit and maybe somehow sealed into place, because I couldn't get the damn thing to budge. I attached one part to a clamp and yanked as hard as I could with some pliers. The whole head kind of split apart from the bottom seal-y bit and the entire coil came out all unraveled.

It's weird, because looking at it, it definitely looks removable from the bottom. There's kind of a gap in the circle in the bottom of the head, so like.. I dunno. Maybe that's somehow glued or secured into place?

I asked Reddit, will see what other folks have to say.
 
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Spike_41

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Yeah I just tried pretty hard (and sacrificed a head) to try and get it off. It seems like it's press-fit and maybe somehow sealed into place, because I couldn't get the damn thing to budge. I attached one part to a clamp and yanked as hard as I could with some pliers. The whole head kind of split apart from the bottom seal-y bit and the entire coil came out all unraveled.

It's weird, because looking at it, it definitely looks removable from the bottom. There's kind of a gap in the circle in the bottom of the head, so like.. I dunno. Maybe that's somehow glued or secured into place?

I asked Reddit, will see what other folks have to say.

Dang.. Kanger must of really not liked the fact that we could rebuild the occ coils.
 

speedy_r6

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Dang.. Kanger must of really not liked the fact that we could rebuild the occ coils.

Time to stockpile the old horizontal style heads. That way I can keep a boatload of them around for rebuilding for later. Worst case scenario, I guess I can also always buy the VOCC heads and just steal the grommet out of that one when the ones in the regular head wear out.

And, to nydiddle, I didn't realize there was a second coil in there holding in the cotton.
 

nyiddle

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That way I can keep a boatload of them around for rebuilding for later. Worst case scenario, I guess I can also always buy the VOCC heads and just steal the grommet out of that one when the ones in the regular head wear out.

And, to nydiddle, I didn't realize there was a second coil in there holding in the cotton.

Yeah it's weird, I don't think it's a functioning "coil", it looks more like an underwire type thing that sort of holds the cotton in place? It's odd, you can see it in the Pbusardo video too.

I might dissect/play around with my now-destroyed VOCC head to see if I can get any further towards disassembling the thing.

Time to stockpile the old horizontal style heads.

Yep, this is what a Redditor said:

D-Juice said:
Just rebuild in the OCC heads. They're much the same but you can wrestle the top off.
 

dcfluegel

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Time to stockpile the old horizontal style heads. That way I can keep a boatload of them around for rebuilding for later. Worst case scenario, I guess I can also always buy the VOCC heads and just steal the grommet out of that one when the ones in the regular head wear out.

And, to nydiddle, I didn't realize there was a second coil in there holding in the cotton.
i picked up some replacement grommets (silicone) from lightning vapes (also think I saw them at avidvapes, maybe?) that I am going to try - they look like they may work like a charm
 

dcfluegel

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Yeah it's weird, I don't think it's a functioning "coil", it looks more like an underwire type thing that sort of holds the cotton in place? It's odd, you can see it in the Pbusardo video too.

I might dissect/play around with my now-destroyed VOCC head to see if I can get any further towards disassembling the thing.

If you've got a dremel tool I would suggest getting a diamond saw blade and sawing one in half right down the middle. It would be interesting getting a clear picture of how it's put together.

It wouldn't surprise me to find that it has collapsing tabs that pop out and lock the post into place once it's pressed in to the top cap. It's pretty clear that Kanger doesn't want them coming apart easily.
 

jseah

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Here you go. Took the dremel and cut the vertical OCC in half. I do not see where it is glued or welded in place. Rather the two semicircular metal tabs that wrap around the coil itself seems to put pressure on the inside of the square OCC exterior to hold it in place. I cut it right down the side of the wick holes, which meant that I cut each of the semi circular tabs in half. Once I cut through the square exterior shell, the pieces immediately fell apart.

20150720_140925.jpg
20150720_141138.jpg
20150720_141155.jpg


I do not see any locking tabs that would be holding the stem in place. I believe just the friction from all that steel is more than enough to keep it in there without enabling you to pull it out without destroying the OCC.
 
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nyiddle

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Here you go. Took the dremel and cut the vertical OCC in half. I do not see where it is glued or welded in place. Rather the two semicircular metal tabs that wrap around the coil itself seems to put pressure on the inside of the square OCC exterior to hold it in place. I cut it right down the side of the wick holes, which meant that I cut each of the semi circular tabs in half. Once I cut through the square exterior shell, the pieces immediately fell apart.

View attachment 473576 View attachment 473577 View attachment 473578

Super helpful. So does that weird circular metal tab come up over the "lip" of the head, right by where the threads are? If so that'd make it literally impossible to pull this head apart without taking a saw to it.
 

jseah

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Super helpful. So does that weird circular metal tab come up over the "lip" of the head, right by where the threads are? If so that'd make it literally impossible to pull this head apart without taking a saw to it.
Actually it doesn't. The entire stem/coil/semicircular tab unit slides right into the head. It is actually a pretty smooth fit. The problem would be to try to get a firm enough grip without stripping the coil threadsto overcome that metal on metal pressure to slide it off. Maybe if you could somehow get some penetrating oil to seep in that might lubricate it enough to slide it out? Of course you would have to wash it really well before you recoil, wick and put it back together.
 

jseah

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Just sacrificed a second coil. Since there is a slot on that metal collar on the inside on the sides where the wick holes aren't, I made one cut with the Dremel on that side. That gave the square head cover just enough give where I was able to slide out the complete unit without destroying the coil threads. There is no metal tabs or detents holding that collar in place.

20150720_144435.jpg
20150720_144419.jpg
 
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jseah

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Wow definitely interesting. Thanks for slicing up a couple of heads for us, I know they aren't cheap @jseah.

What do you mean by "penetrating oil"? Something stronger than WD40 I'd assume?
It's all good. Those two coils I sliced up were coils that I had already used once before and soaked in vodka for a couple of days. I know they wouldn't last nearly as long the second time around. By penetrating oil, I meant something like WD40. Although now that I think about it, I wonder if you could use the tank base as a fulcrum to hold the coil in place to try to pry that top cover off.
 

nyiddle

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It's all good. Those two coils I sliced up were coils that I had already used once before and soaked in vodka for a couple of days. I know they wouldn't last nearly as long the second time around. By penetrating oil, I meant something like WD40. Although now that I think about it, I wonder if you could use the tank base as a fulcrum to hold the coil in place to try to pry that top cover off.

I have some WD40. I have a near-dead coil (probably got a few more days left in it). I could give it a shot w/ some WD40 and see if that makes prying it off a possibility.
 

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OK, now that I see how it's put together I know exactly how to take it apart without damaging the core components required for rebuilding it. You'll destroy the coil obviously, but since the plan is to rebuild it that shouldn't be a problem.

First, measure out the diameter of the round post Take a 2X4 piece of wood and drill a hole through it about 1/8th of an inch larger in diameter. Place the head assembly over the hole with the post in the hole. Then use a wooden dowel rod pushed through the top hole and upper o-ring and a hammer to tap out the post. Since it's only held in with friction this should knock the round post out without damaging the metal. It may be easier to do if you remove the bottom pin and use a pair of needle nose pliers to pull the coil and wicking out first.

Once you're done drill out a second hole in the wood the same diameter as the threaded part of the bottom section. This should allow you to place the bottom part into the hole and tap the square section back on using a plastic or rubber mallet without bending the bottom section. Using a small amount of juice as a lubricant may help make this part easier.


Now I'm interested in buying some of these coils just to see if I could rebuild one using nickel wire in the vertical coil configuration.
 
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