The 4 connections on the deans are the easiest to fix 
You can change them under the cap were nothing should be glued together
You can change them under the cap were nothing should be glued together Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder
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Sorry can you explain more? What should I switch?The 4 connections on the deans are the easiest to fix
Ok the deans connect to the fire button and the Atty out and negative
Look at your internals the 2 wires coming out of the dna for the fire button (2 middle spots on top of the board)
are going to the fire button under the cap + - don't matter on these 2 find there potion on the deans and run your wire from the deans in the cap to the fire button in the cap.
Next the 2 wire from the atty out and the ground. The atty out goes to the + on the 510 (brass washer)
The - goes to the retaining nut for the 510 under the cap, same as the fire switch find the connections on the deans in the internals and follow them thru to the cap, from there go to atty out and 510 ground
Hope this helps
Look at your internals the 2 wires coming out of the dna for the fire button (2 middle spots on top of the board)
are going to the fire button under the cap + - don't matter on these 2 find there potion on the deans and run your wire from the deans in the cap to the fire button in the cap.
Next the 2 wire from the atty out and the ground. The atty out goes to the + on the 510 (brass washer)
The - goes to the retaining nut for the 510 under the cap, same as the fire switch find the connections on the deans in the internals and follow them thru to the cap, from there go to atty out and 510 ground
Hope this helps
I don't see how to switch. Should I desolder? I know I made them opposite and I need to rewire. Can I remove the brass inserts in the deans and just switch those in the plastics of the deans?Ok the deans connect to the fire button and the Atty out and negative
Look at your internals the 2 wires coming out of the dna for the fire button (2 middle spots on top of the board)
are going to the fire button under the cap + - don't matter on these 2 find there potion on the deans and run your wire from the deans in the cap to the fire button in the cap.
Next the 2 wire from the atty out and the ground. The atty out goes to the + on the 510 (brass washer)
The - goes to the retaining nut for the 510 under the cap, same as the fire switch find the connections on the deans in the internals and follow them thru to the cap, from there go to atty out and 510 ground
Hope this helps
No you will have to desolder the wires under the cap and reroute them
Ok thanks. I hope I don't melt the frame
. Will do it tonight and report back.
Maybe this picture will help
if you can take the internals a part you could switch the wires under the deans.
If not you will have to connect your wires in the cap like is shown in the picture
if you can take the internals a part you could switch the wires under the deans.
If not you will have to connect your wires in the cap like is shown in the picture
Fixed and working thanks steamer. I did have to do it in the frame. Melted a bit of plastic but not an issue. Still testing normal mode.
Now I have a couple of issues probably strictly related with gdibina. I might take it in private with Georges and Peter.
thanks steamer. I did have to do it in the frame. Melted a bit of plastic but not an issue. Still testing normal mode.
Now I have a couple of issues probably strictly related with gdibina. I might take it in private with Georges and Peter.
Thanks buddy.
Scrambled screen, I have been waiting for you!! Yep got the screen of death! Now this is my first serious soldering project and it was neater and better than I expected. I have tested this chip for like 2 hours before 2 months. Didn't have issues. Now let me tell u.
As soon as I got the scrambled screen I realized I was getting weak battery as well, so i took the battery out it was 3.4v (its a samsung 20R). Popped in a vtc5 and it is running fine at 40 watts. All this temp mode of course. Does anyone know if the weak battery is what caused it? I think/hope that yes it is.
Let me tell u. Scrambled no scrambled, screen no screen, I'm not taking that chip out. I will enjoy vaping it and never look at the screen if I have to lol
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Usually, a scrambled screen is caused by deans connector instability, really needs to be tightly coupled (top to bottom)
Guys I think having weak battery would lead to the same result no? If the scrambled screen is cause by intermittent not consistent current it would happen with a weak battery.
Thanks gdeal most of the problems I'm still having are related to tolerances and looks. Completely my fault. I would need to think about some solutions and I might PM you for suggestions.
George I read people saying how the design is great. But it took me building one to realize what you did is really genius. Not to forget the Beta guys I know they gave you some push as well
. Thank you for making it possible.
Guys I think having weak battery would lead to the same result no? If the scrambled screen is cause by intermittent not consistent current it would happen with a weak battery.
Thanks gdeal most of the problems I'm still having are related to tolerances and looks. Completely my fault. I would need to think about some solutions and I might PM you for suggestions.
George I read people saying how the design is great. But it took me building one to realize what you did is really genius. Not to forget the Beta guys I know they gave you some push as well
I run 3 DNA40 devices and have never had a scrambled screen due to a weak battery.
YepI run 3 DNA40 devices and have never had a scrambled screen due to a weak battery.
I just had it with the good battery. Well I think something related to the battery contacts. The Dean connectors are well connected and the wiring does not seem problematic.My dna's are the first ones that came with celsius but I'm pretty sure it is a user error especially that I have an alignment problems with the frame. I won't be returning this one and as I said I will just wait for it to sleep and vape again.
I wonder if anyone has every tried putting a capacitor across the battery inputs on a DNA40 that has issues like this?
Believe me I know a cold solder joint when I see one. I've done so many before
I think you'd need quite a beefy capacitor for stabilizing the current, not sure it'd fit in there..
I have a gdna question, that may just be a BF in general question. Sometimes I have juice feeding problems. I'll have great squonking until the bottle gets down a ways, then squeezing the bottle produces little or no juice to the atty. The only solution I've found is to turn the mod upside down while squonking; not the preferred squonkage mode. It's like an air lock. Anyone else? any trick or "hack" to deal with this?
yes to both, to the bottom with the angle cut. It's a vapage 9ml, and it starts when the bottle gets about half way.
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