Printed Mechanical Bottom Feeder Mod
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This is the battery, the multiple pits is because I move it around on purpose.
This is the pin. The pitting is on the top right. Not very clear. Other stuff is a reflection from brass.
All wired up. Now only has 3 contacts to clean.
That looks like you're drawing more then 20 amps, and the pin must be coming in at a severe angle, is that what you see when pressing the button with top off and batt out?
Nice, clean build! Well done!All wired up. Now only has 3 contacts to clean.
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Nope not severe angle. I would say not flat but really not that severe
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Well, straighten it out. Either by bending things, or by re-shaping the head of the contact. 
However, the best solution (IMO) is to do the wire mod. George does it like this:
It allows the button to travel straight up and down instead the arc that the mechanical arm forces it through.
Source: Some dark corner of the 'net where George is able to post.
However, the best solution (IMO) is to do the wire mod. George does it like this:
It allows the button to travel straight up and down instead the arc that the mechanical arm forces it through.
Please make sure to send George our love. If you ever "see" him in your travels on the dark side, that is. I owe him a huge thank you for his design keeping me off analogs.
And just as a ha-ha, bug him about designing some kick compatible internals and 18500 Pekos.
Fortune favors the Bottom Feeders.
And just as a ha-ha, bug him about designing some kick compatible internals and 18500 Pekos.
Fortune favors the Bottom Feeders.
Hey Ross, thank george for me will ya. I took a 600 grit paper to the pin, now the black spot is appearing more spread and thinner. Which means I'm getting more contact. Of course 600 made it foggy and need to polish it up with higher grits.Well, straighten it out. Either by bending things, or by re-shaping the head of the contact.
Source: Some dark corner of the 'net where George is able to post.
However, the best solution (IMO) is to do the wire mod. George does it like this:
It allows the button to travel straight up and down instead the arc that the mechanical arm forces it through.
Nevertheless the theory seems correct. What I'm worried about now is are all my peko pins like that? I have been using this one the most lately but never compared the black spots locations on the others. It seems the screws are not regular which makes sense, these are the ones that came in the coop and I should have inspected them and aligned them correctly with the battery when assembling.
It's a beautiful mod you can do a lot with it, and even with the black spots it was hitting great. Maybe I'll try switch the screw with the FD pin.
As for wires, not ready yet but will attempt it one day for sure (after I finish my GDNA'S right Bob? Lol)
One of the great things about the wire mod is the ability to use the FDV 510 pin as your switch contact. Big, Flat, and Uniform!
Fortune favors the Bottom Feeders.
Fortune favors the Bottom Feeders.
Installed solid copper positive with solid brass switch arm.
Fortune favors the Bottom Feeders.
Fortune favors the Bottom Feeders.
Why not get rid of those washers in the top while we have the soldering iron out? Those washers are just more contact surface areas that need to be cleaned from time to time. Since the battery fire pin is locked into place anyway why not just solder it direct and use the FD 510 screw for better battery contact area while we're at it...
The contact ring is locked into place on both the 510 retainer nut and the battery contact pin, so just solder them directly. It eliminates 2 contact surfaces.
High strand wire provides plenty of flex. I use the magnets for spring and a nice positive button action is achieved by putting an O-ring under the magnet that goes in the button (it moves that top magnet closer to the one around the contact pin).
This Peko is the only one in my lineup that ever saw use and the direct soldered connection has been maintenance free for almost a year. The washer contact on the vented screw is required for adjusting pin height but it is easy to pop off and clean the corrosion that takes place.
Mixed up some more 3 part epoxy like armament paint yesterday and added some black for a darker blue... My Peko previously had a grey hammer paint that held up pretty good but its hammer texture didn't show up very well and my clear coat pooled in 3 spots (drove me nuts to see) so it is now dark blue. Because of this I had it apart so I took the above pictures.
Here's a picture from before getting new paint (2 of the pooled clear coat spots are visible here):
The contact ring is locked into place on both the 510 retainer nut and the battery contact pin, so just solder them directly. It eliminates 2 contact surfaces.
High strand wire provides plenty of flex. I use the magnets for spring and a nice positive button action is achieved by putting an O-ring under the magnet that goes in the button (it moves that top magnet closer to the one around the contact pin).
This Peko is the only one in my lineup that ever saw use and the direct soldered connection has been maintenance free for almost a year. The washer contact on the vented screw is required for adjusting pin height but it is easy to pop off and clean the corrosion that takes place.
Mixed up some more 3 part epoxy like armament paint yesterday and added some black for a darker blue... My Peko previously had a grey hammer paint that held up pretty good but its hammer texture didn't show up very well and my clear coat pooled in 3 spots (drove me nuts to see) so it is now dark blue. Because of this I had it apart so I took the above pictures.
Here's a picture from before getting new paint (2 of the pooled clear coat spots are visible here):
Anyone got any ideas on how to remove the magnet (the one on the shell part not the main body)?
It popped off, and I put it back kindof half-heartedly thinking I'd do it properly later with glue, and it's now the wrong way round. Facepalm. So yeah there's no glue holding it, so there's hope, but it's still quite tight.
It popped off, and I put it back kindof half-heartedly thinking I'd do it properly later with glue, and it's now the wrong way round. Facepalm. So yeah there's no glue holding it, so there's hope, but it's still quite tight.
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Need to get the force under the magnet and depending on how far seated your magnet is... determines what you might have handy to use. If near flush to the bottom of the shell a needle tip forced under the magnet to give it that first little bit of rise works for me. Just a little bit might be all that is needed to use magnetic attraction to pull it straight out the rest of the way. If it's still too tight you should now be able to slip a small flathead screwdriver under the edge and leverage it up further. Getting that first little bit of lift without chewing things up is the hardest part.
Thank'ee
Justin@livewire suggested a curved pick to pry it out with. So now to find one of those.
Was hoping for some neat trick, something along the lines of heating it so it expands, or.
Wish me luck
[QUOTE="sjoat, post: 17143763, member: 67012]
Was hoping for some neat trick, something along the lines of heating it so it expands, or.
Wish me luck[/QUOTE]
Tried that once. I melted part of the sled.
Good luck buddy. I'd skip the pick if you don't have one and use a really small flat head screwdriver.
Fortune favors the Bottom Feeders.
Was hoping for some neat trick, something along the lines of heating it so it expands, or.
Wish me luck[/QUOTE]
Tried that once. I melted part of the sled.
Good luck buddy. I'd skip the pick if you don't have one and use a really small flat head screwdriver.
Fortune favors the Bottom Feeders.
You can get one of those curved (dental) picks from the Dollar Tree store in a kit that comes with a dental mirror, some tweezers, the pick, etc. cheap. If you don't have a Dollar Tree then probably even Walmart or Walgreens. Dental.
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