Printed Mechanical Bottom Feeder Mod

Status
Not open for further replies.

Aal_

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
May 5, 2012
7,077
18,566
Toronto
    Aal, post pics, I get no pitting @ .4 and I occasionally do go down to .3 with quads


    This is the battery, the multiple pits is because I move it around on purpose.






    This is the pin. The pitting is on the top right. Not very clear. Other stuff is a reflection from brass.
     
    • Like
    Reactions: Rossum

    Tagi

    Super Member
    ECF Veteran
    Verified Member
    Feb 26, 2014
    682
    1,187
    Dallas Texas
      All wired up. Now only has 3 contacts to clean.

      05a6eedd33ee0bc0e1e51c224e073863.jpg

      d0a3352b469260e9182f19245b6946ac.jpg

      af49b60429a4828b55d7dfe214693bdc.jpg
       

      Rossum

      "Chump"
      Supporting Member
      ECF Veteran
      Verified Member
      Dec 14, 2013
      16,011
      104,434
      SE PA
        Well, straighten it out. Either by bending things, or by re-shaping the head of the contact. :)

        Its just lots of power focused on a small contact area and that causes arcing. For the stock Peko, only two things can be done to minimize it. Either bend the solder lug so that the face of the screw is flat or file the screw head flat/parallel to the battery surface.
        Source: Some dark corner of the 'net where George is able to post.

        However, the best solution (IMO) is to do the wire mod. George does it like this:

        BG6yNNK.jpg


        K9zmJ9t.jpg


        It allows the button to travel straight up and down instead the arc that the mechanical arm forces it through.
         

        Moxienator

        Super Squonker
        ECF Veteran
        Verified Member
        Aug 22, 2014
        932
        2,319
        Central Mass
          Please make sure to send George our love. If you ever "see" him in your travels on the dark side, that is. I owe him a huge thank you for his design keeping me off analogs.

          And just as a ha-ha, bug him about designing some kick compatible internals and 18500 Pekos.

          Fortune favors the Bottom Feeders.
           

          Aal_

          Vaping Master
          ECF Veteran
          Verified Member
          May 5, 2012
          7,077
          18,566
          Toronto
            Well, straighten it out. Either by bending things, or by re-shaping the head of the contact. :)

            Source: Some dark corner of the 'net where George is able to post.

            However, the best solution (IMO) is to do the wire mod. George does it like this:

            BG6yNNK.jpg


            K9zmJ9t.jpg


            It allows the button to travel straight up and down instead the arc that the mechanical arm forces it through.
            Hey Ross, thank george for me will ya. I took a 600 grit paper to the pin, now the black spot is appearing more spread and thinner. Which means I'm getting more contact. Of course 600 made it foggy and need to polish it up with higher grits.

            Nevertheless the theory seems correct. What I'm worried about now is are all my peko pins like that? I have been using this one the most lately but never compared the black spots locations on the others. It seems the screws are not regular which makes sense, these are the ones that came in the coop and I should have inspected them and aligned them correctly with the battery when assembling.

            It's a beautiful mod you can do a lot with it, and even with the black spots it was hitting great. Maybe I'll try switch the screw with the FD pin.

            As for wires, not ready yet but will attempt it one day for sure (after I finish my GDNA'S right Bob? Lol)
             

            TyCreek

            Another Vaper
            Supporting Member
            ECF Veteran
            Verified Member
            Dec 19, 2013
            565
            1,570
            Treasure Valley
              Why not get rid of those washers in the top while we have the soldering iron out? Those washers are just more contact surface areas that need to be cleaned from time to time. Since the battery fire pin is locked into place anyway why not just solder it direct and use the FD 510 screw for better battery contact area while we're at it...
              IMG_4012.jpg

              The contact ring is locked into place on both the 510 retainer nut and the battery contact pin, so just solder them directly. It eliminates 2 contact surfaces.
              IMG_4014.jpg

              IMG_4015.jpg


              High strand wire provides plenty of flex. I use the magnets for spring and a nice positive button action is achieved by putting an O-ring under the magnet that goes in the button (it moves that top magnet closer to the one around the contact pin).

              This Peko is the only one in my lineup that ever saw use and the direct soldered connection has been maintenance free for almost a year. The washer contact on the vented screw is required for adjusting pin height but it is easy to pop off and clean the corrosion that takes place.

              Mixed up some more 3 part epoxy like armament paint yesterday and added some black for a darker blue... My Peko previously had a grey hammer paint that held up pretty good but its hammer texture didn't show up very well and my clear coat pooled in 3 spots (drove me nuts to see) so it is now dark blue. Because of this I had it apart so I took the above pictures.
              IMG_4019.jpg

              Here's a picture from before getting new paint (2 of the pooled clear coat spots are visible here):
              PS214253c.jpg
               

              sjoat

              Senior Member
              ECF Veteran
              Jul 23, 2011
              239
              365
              Earth
                Anyone got any ideas on how to remove the magnet (the one on the shell part not the main body)?

                It popped off, and I put it back kindof half-heartedly thinking I'd do it properly later with glue, and it's now the wrong way round. Facepalm. So yeah there's no glue holding it, so there's hope, but it's still quite tight.
                 
                Last edited:

                TyCreek

                Another Vaper
                Supporting Member
                ECF Veteran
                Verified Member
                Dec 19, 2013
                565
                1,570
                Treasure Valley
                  Need to get the force under the magnet and depending on how far seated your magnet is... determines what you might have handy to use. If near flush to the bottom of the shell a needle tip forced under the magnet to give it that first little bit of rise works for me. Just a little bit might be all that is needed to use magnetic attraction to pull it straight out the rest of the way. If it's still too tight you should now be able to slip a small flathead screwdriver under the edge and leverage it up further. Getting that first little bit of lift without chewing things up is the hardest part.
                   
                  • Like
                  Reactions: Moxienator

                  sjoat

                  Senior Member
                  ECF Veteran
                  Jul 23, 2011
                  239
                  365
                  Earth
                    Need to get the force under the magnet and depending on how far seated your magnet is... determines what you might have handy to use. If near flush to the bottom of the shell a needle tip forced under the magnet to give it that first little bit of rise works for me. Just a little bit might be all that is needed to use magnetic attraction to pull it straight out the rest of the way. If it's still too tight you should now be able to slip a small flathead screwdriver under the edge and leverage it up further. Getting that first little bit of lift without chewing things up is the hardest part.
                    Thank'ee

                    Justin@livewire suggested a curved pick to pry it out with. So now to find one of those.

                    Was hoping for some neat trick, something along the lines of heating it so it expands, or.

                    Wish me luck
                     

                    Moxienator

                    Super Squonker
                    ECF Veteran
                    Verified Member
                    Aug 22, 2014
                    932
                    2,319
                    Central Mass
                      [QUOTE="sjoat, post: 17143763, member: 67012]
                      Was hoping for some neat trick, something along the lines of heating it so it expands, or.

                      Wish me luck[/QUOTE]

                      Tried that once. I melted part of the sled. :(

                      Good luck buddy. I'd skip the pick if you don't have one and use a really small flat head screwdriver.


                      Fortune favors the Bottom Feeders.
                       

                      JC Okie

                      REOnaut
                      Supporting Member
                      ECF Veteran
                      Verified Member
                      Jul 2, 2010
                      6,511
                      17,718
                      Tulsa, OK
                        Thank'ee

                        Justin@livewire suggested a curved pick to pry it out with. So now to find one of those.

                        Was hoping for some neat trick, something along the lines of heating it so it expands, or.

                        Wish me luck
                        You can get one of those curved (dental) picks from the Dollar Tree store in a kit that comes with a dental mirror, some tweezers, the pick, etc. cheap. If you don't have a Dollar Tree then probably even Walmart or Walgreens. Dental.
                         
                        • Like
                        Reactions: muzichead
                        Status
                        Not open for further replies.

                        Users who are viewing this thread

                          ')