They call me 'Tibs"
- Feb 23, 2010
Funny thing, my first ever solder turned out to be beautiful and working well with dna40, what I failed at is gluing and sanding and making sure the height is right when dealing with a Gdibina . It sits now looking like a Frankenstein with the internals butchered. One day I will go back .
TC sensitivity to poor connections (any chip I've messed with so far) does not favor multiple connections and solder points. Though well connected gdna mods do however work quite reliably if everything is tuned top to bottom. Some prints take a lot of tuning for a good solid TC experience. I've put together a few gdna shells and every one has been slightly different.
If a print design eliminated the hobby connectors such as by keeping the electronics connected in the center like the Peko, I think more people would have better success.
Personally I like the smaller early print series better than the later versions. Still, I've not seen a better bottom fed TC mod from purchased parts.
Oh... I found a small screen DNA40 that was tucked away so my Lipo Tibs/Bap mod got TC and a heavier spring in the 510! Here's some TC mods handy on my bench that I lined up the day I did that swap.
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Duly Noted! That Mod, never gave me a bit of trouble, in fact I like it, alot; a true mystery, aside from your remarks. I've always seated the top with a good strong snugging, BUT obviously, they can be made to fit, and connect, easier and betterChuckle... small world it is
Anyway, the blue gdna has been working great all day driving a nickel clapton that had a few days of use. The top now snaps together nice and solid. This is my first of a newer printed shell type and was interesting trying to figure out how to take it apart since I'd never seen one before. Nice print design gdeal did with those!
Looked, to me, like the key to these working right is getting the magnets set so they just make contact when fully seated. So, the body side magnets were my last assembly step by setting them into position using a fully assembled top to press them into place for a perfectly matched magnetic contact plane. Also, when checking how the parts fit together, I shaved the whole top of the body by a bunch (maybe 1/32") and the top of the center connecter carriers got shaves too so that the connector faces were flush (provided full seating into each other).
This can work great "for a while" ... but when the snugging fit wears off, the magnets are VERY key to maintaining long term stability. The Magnets need to touch and lock together. With that one I rebuilt, the magnets had a gap and did not lock together so even though a bad switch was its primary dysfunction its TC stability was doomed. I don't know what the original instructions state for mounting the magnets but there should be a note to ensure they are set into place in the body by using the fixed position top cap magnets so that all 6 make exactly the same contact simultaneously with the mating print surfaces.... I've always seated the top with a good strong snugging, ...