REO Technical Issues/Shop Talk
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The button is a side button and has pretty much a hair trigger so its much easier to press. It comes with the same stock bottle as the grands...so same squonk. I do hear that the 8.5 ml bottles are super soft and easy to squonk..
Hi Moonbear. You might want to pop in the chat Lounge and ask this question over there too. There are some... ummm... "well seasoned" members over there who may have some insight about that. ~> The Reonauts new lounge
The squonking is the same. Both use the same bottles. The button push on the P67 is easier, and the button travel is shorter. It's almost like a touch button.
Your welcome Moonbear. If firing it does bother you using your thumb, turn it over in your hand, and fire it with your fore finger, or vice versa .
Oh! If squonking is becoming an issue as well Rob has new, squooshier bottles that may be easier for you to use. They are larger at 8 ml even - but they aren't without certain issues that come along with. (Softer plastic doesn't hold up as well & the cap is a little fussy.) I don't have personal experience with them myself but other people in the lounge can help you out with any questions.
Welcome back!!! I have hand issues also, and yesssssssssss much better to fire, way less stress on the hands. Rumor has it he'll be doing another run around the end of the month which isn't far away. I don't have a P-67 but I have a 2015 woodvil and the design is the same.
The new 8.5 ml bottles are a must!!! They are a tad fussier, but I have zero leaking and they are sooooooooooo easy to squonk. I take mine completely off to refill.....give a lil squeeze into a paper towel to kinda clear out the tube. fill, recap, making sure it threads right... (that's the tricky part). Then pinch the air tube, squeeze the bottle and make sure pressure is built up. Do this a couple few times, and reattach to the Reo. If it's not threaded right, when you pinch the tube and squeeze the bottle the bottle will actually squeeze rather than you feeling the pressure built up.
Hey Debadoo, your instructions may have inspired me to try one of the new style bottles again. I got them when I received my P-67 but I didn't have the process down correctly. I was having so much fun with the new mod that I put the bottle away for another day.
I don't have hand problems but I absolutely agree that the button is much easier to push. Hope you can get one Moon Bear
kewl! You can and should do the tube pinchy squeeze part before you ever use it, and you may not have to do it again. But I've got one or two that like to dribble a bit if I don't do it each time I fill it. So I just do it. It's easy and less frustrating than having to take one back off. Hope it works great for ya hun! I LOVE these bottles!!
When a group of us porchers got together in Florida......I got to use one of Kay's P67's for the week, but her bottle didn't wanna come off, and I wasn't gonna force it. (didn't know if Rob had super glued it or not). She had the old style bottle that came with it in there. Omggggggg it was super hard to squonk cuz it wuz fairly new, and compared to the easy squeeze ones.
Okay Reonauts, I must confess that I've never really been able to get my coils to match at Steam Engine says it should be. Now, I've been making coils for darn near 3 years now for my Reos but they always meter higher. I aim for 1.2 and I get 1.5. (Both on my USA ohms meter and another meter with prongs...not sure that's the word?). It's not something I've been concerned about before but I've been playing around with SS today and I really, really want to understand what I'm doing wrong. Today I was aiming for .9 for the SS as it is cooler, but got 1.2. Hmmmmm
I use Kuro Koilers usually 2.5. (Authentic). Are they larger or smaller than what is listed. (And that's the number I put in the box of the inner diameter of Steam Engine). Do I have a problem with leg length? 5 mm is pre-set. I don't think mine are extraordinarily long and I soley work on little attys like the RM2, Origen 16, Challice 3.
I wouldn't say that I'm brilliant or have excellent building skills but I can pass for being able and kinda smart
Any thoughts my friends would be helpful. I am stumped...
Thank you!
I use Kuro Koilers usually 2.5. (Authentic). Are they larger or smaller than what is listed. (And that's the number I put in the box of the inner diameter of Steam Engine). Do I have a problem with leg length? 5 mm is pre-set. I don't think mine are extraordinarily long and I soley work on little attys like the RM2, Origen 16, Challice 3.
I wouldn't say that I'm brilliant or have excellent building skills but I can pass for being able and kinda smart
Any thoughts my friends would be helpful. I am stumped...
Thank you!
Do you have a digital caliper or a micrometer to measure the Kuro 2.5mm rod? Are you counting your wraps correctly? I think those are the only variables that could make it different...
Okay Reonauts, I must confess that I've never really been able to get my coils to match at Steam Engine says it should be. Now, I've been making coils for darn near 3 years now for my Reos but they always meter higher. I aim for 1.2 and I get 1.5. (Both on my USA ohms meter and another meter with prongs...not sure that's the word?). It's not something I've been concerned about before but I've been playing around with SS today and I really, really want to understand what I'm doing wrong. Today I was aiming for .9 for the SS as it is cooler, but got 1.2. Hmmmmm
I use Kuro Koilers usually 2.5. (Authentic). Are they larger or smaller than what is listed. (And that's the number I put in the box of the inner diameter of Steam Engine). Do I have a problem with leg length? 5 mm is pre-set. I don't think mine are extraordinarily long and I soley work on little attys like the RM2, Origen 16, Challice 3.
I wouldn't say that I'm brilliant or have excellent building skills but I can pass for being able and kinda smart
Any thoughts my friends would be helpful. I am stumped...
Thank you!
Keep in mind the full wraps, and the half wraps, or returns. Also, for a single coil in a small atomizer, 5mm total leg length is probably a bit long.
No, I don't but I could probably get it checked at our hardware store, but I think you and rule have a point about counting coils. I think that I've always done it the same way and that could be the problem. (I really think that's it's the operator and not the equipment. It's not like Steam Machine is wrong).
Do you guys reset the tail length and heat index from the default numbers on SM?
Thank you!
I don't even pay attention to those #'s at all... They are pretty meaningless unless you are vaping a regulated device. I vape dual coil setup's below .5Ω and know most likely the heat index will be very warm to moderately hot!!!
Also, are you making spaced coils, or contact coils? Spaced coils take up a little more wire, which will lead to higher resistance.
When you wrap, do you make a couple extra wraps, and then pull them out, in order to tighten the coil on the Kuro rod?
I reset the tail length from the default, depending what I'm building. It's just a guess though. For example, on a single Z coil, like for a Stumpy, I'll set it at 2 or 3mm.
I reset the Watts setting, to correspond with whatever resistance I'm building, using an Ohms Law Calculator. Given the fact that we are using a single battery mechanical, I'll figure the watts at 4.2 V (full charge), and 3.7 V (nominal). For example: If I build a .3 ohm coil, it will draw 58.8 watts on full charge, and 45.6 watts at 3.7V
When you wrap, do you make a couple extra wraps, and then pull them out, in order to tighten the coil on the Kuro rod?
I reset the tail length from the default, depending what I'm building. It's just a guess though. For example, on a single Z coil, like for a Stumpy, I'll set it at 2 or 3mm.
I reset the Watts setting, to correspond with whatever resistance I'm building, using an Ohms Law Calculator. Given the fact that we are using a single battery mechanical, I'll figure the watts at 4.2 V (full charge), and 3.7 V (nominal). For example: If I build a .3 ohm coil, it will draw 58.8 watts on full charge, and 45.6 watts at 3.7V
Bear in mind, I don't mean to be confusing. I don't go through all this stuff with the Heat Flux, watts, etc., every time I build a coil. It's only when I'm experimenting with a different build, because of wire gauge, wire material, coil diameter, or any other variable. Once I get close, I don't bother with it. I'll just maybe add or subtract a wrap.
Yahoo! I think we are figuring this out! Although I generally go for contact coils but now that I think about it, there might be a teensy tiny bit of space in between each one. I usually fix by using tweezers to squeeze them together once the coil is in my atty. (So even though it appears tiny, we are talking about itty bitty mm's here. The pinching doesn't decrease the wire length but only the space between the coils. I think I'm getting it here).
Funny you should mention the idea of adding a couple wraps and then unwrapping and tightening. I was just looking at Sloth's recent video (pg 65 of the lounge thread). I'm gonna try that next and really pay attention to the wraps.
I'm really appreciating your suggestions. I was starting to feel a bit lost. I think I need to start a couple of new habits in the coil making portion of my life.
Thanks Reo friends and yes, here's another example of why I hang out here!
Pulling the legs tight is important, so that you don't get a loose wrap, which will lead to uneven coil heating. Like Sloth, I always add a couple extra wraps, and pull them out, by grabbing the leg with pliers, and unwinding, until I end up with whatever number of wraps I want.
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