Taifun GT Discusion!

[anavidfan]

alien Traveler" data-source="post: 16577636" class="bbCodeBlock bbCodeBlock--expandable bbCodeBlock--quote js-expandWatch">

Damn. It's leaking again.
OK, 2 days with zero leaking...

Are you installing your wick through channels and leaving little tails?

If so, try this method, It solved all my same problems. Leave the wick longer and roll and tuck under with a pair of tweezers. Its perfect everytime and somehow I can still vape till its almost completely empty, even with 95% VG.

Its in German but easy to get the idea... I had similar problems when I first started using it, was getting irked, but found this video.

 

[Alien Traveler]

Are you installing your wick through channels and leaving little tails?

If so, try this method, It solved all my same problems. Leave the wick longer and roll and tuck under with a pair of tweezers. Its perfect everytime and somehow I can still vape till its almost completely empty, even with 95% VG.

Thanks for reminding. I believe this method was described in manual. I'll try it next time I rewick.

 

[ReacT]

I believe you can permanently damage a battery if you let it discharge too far. Sounds like your VTC5 won't hold a charge anymore. Also, there are fake VTC5 batteries out there, especially on eBay. I got a couple VTC5's last month from Illumination but they sold out quickly.

Yes sounds like they are. I always left them on the charge machine more than 24 hours as the charge machine stops charging when it is full but looks like it is checking it all the time and causes it to die. My batteries are probably fake. I order new one from FT which says authentic this time, lets see.

@Alien Traveler,
Is it original GT ? I would like to say something about this issue. I got 3 fake GT and 1 fake GT2 and 1 original GT2. The clone versions were always somehow leaking and strangely each of them are different than eachother, that is also why i was using nautilus for a long time. 10 days ago I decided to give a chance to the original one, and boom. It is completely %100 different than clone, the quality is so different, top cap and base everything screwing properly, never ever leaked again and I use %70pg liquids. I recommend original.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

since this has sort of turned into a general taifun thread, I thought i woukld add an observation for those using the GS2 and GSL with ptfe tubies (as I like to call them for some unknown reason..).

I see people are having some issues with these things not conveying sufficient juice goodness to the waiting wick below. One reason for this is beacause, unlike mesh or cotton, there is no capillary action going on. In fact its worse than that cos with thick juices, whart happens is the tubes get air-locked and hardly any juice gets through. So, when you rebuild/rewick, juice up the new wick thorughly and then put on the cap with tubies installed. The just add a drop of juice to each hole and see if it gets sucked down onto the wick. If your wick is already juicy this may take a while. If it just sits there, get a piece of wire and just gently shove it down the hole and wiggle it a bit. The idea is to break the surface tension and get the juice to start flowing down the tuby (a new word!). I also noticed that its possible to get things moving without this just by shaking the atty a bit!

hope this is understandable and useful to someone!

 

[chanelvaps]

Amazing what an Oring ectomy can do for your atty's. I have 3 Taifuns (II) that were all leaking a little bit. went on for the last week or so. I changed an oring here and there, made bigger wicks etc. Tonight took all three apart and replaced all orings and all is well again. Not a leak in sight

 

[petemoss]

since this has sort of turned into a general taifun thread, I thought i woukld add an observation for those using the GS2 and GSL with ptfe tubies (as I like to call them for some unknown reason..).

I see people are having some issues with these things not conveying sufficient juice goodness to the waiting wick below. One reason for this is beacause, unlike mesh or cotton, there is no capillary action going on. In fact its worse than that cos with thick juices, whart happens is the tubes get air-locked and hardly any juice gets through. So, when you rebuild/rewick, juice up the new wick thorughly and then put on the cap with tubies installed. The just add a drop of juice to each hole and see if it gets sucked down onto the wick. If your wick is already juicy this may take a while. If it just sits there, get a piece of wire and just gently shove it down the hole and wiggle it a bit. The idea is to break the surface tension and get the juice to start flowing down the tuby (a new word!). I also noticed that its possible to get things moving without this just by shaking the atty a bit!

hope this is understandable and useful to someone!

Yes, I also experienced erratic wicking with the PTFE tubes on my GS2 (22mm) clone. Sometimes the tube was burried too deep in the wick and that seemed to choke the flow. Other times, the tube lost contact with the wick and flooding resulted. Changing to mesh straws worked for me and I won't go back. On my GS2 I filled the deep juice wells with some aluminum foil and cut the wick short. That setup is how my FEV is wicked and it's working great. Maybe a photo will show what I mean by a short wick. The straws feed a very minimal wick, just enough to cover the FEV screws.

 

[h00ligan]

Is anyone having issues with temperature control mods and the gt2? It seems somewhat unreliable unless I unscrew the bottom screw really far and let it sort of screw itself back in as I mount it to the mod.

Also can the base be separated into two pieces?

For a contribution to the thread.

I have the steam tuners matte that goes clear tank. It's really nice. I had ordered fast tech clear tanks and they all basically sucked. They don't fit normal drip tips. Which is a shame because outside hat they're nice and here cheap.

The effect of the matte tank turning clear from steam tuners. Nits more than your normal matte tank. It's made a different way somehow.

This is the fast tech tank. One out of five fit proper drop tips and it cracked from a. Juice hay shouldn't have made it crack. Disappointing when it looked so great.

Here is the steam tuners acrylic matte to
Clear tank

I realize this was a gt thread. I hope the gt2 is also part of it. If not I'll remove this and find the gt2 thread.

I am thinking of buying a gs2 to put on the ego one battery. The clone is fine but not great. It gets super hot when Vaping and it's kind of s pain to wick. I'd like to know if the authentic has these issues. Can't seem to find a gs2 thread though. If anyone can point me towards one. Or can anyone post a pic of their mesh straws? I have some but I'm not sure if mine are right. It's not exactly wicking with mesh bt I've never touched the stuff before. I'm having slight issues. I had a perfect build in the clone. Now it seems either it won't wick or its flooding. Some actual measurements of how much mesh to use. How tall how wide how tight of s roll. That would be helpful. I'd like to buy the authentic if it shrugs off heat better than the clone. The clone absolutely cooks. I've mostly settled on just tapping them down until they don't want to fall down further. Seems to level off providing new I use a ton of cotton with high shoulders. My main concern is the heat the clone carries through.

Here's what it looks like on a ego one battery. I get through about two ml of Juice on a charge built to about .7-8 with kanthal. Color isn't perfect but I had battery and it's close enough for horseshoes and hand grenades.

Thanks for the info all and I hope the picture and thoughts on the steam tuners tank helps someone out. They're also great people to deal With. Pretty fast shipping from Greece to the left side of the USA.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Yes, I also experienced erratic wicking with the PTFE tubes on my GS2 (22mm) clone. Sometimes the tube was burried too deep in the wick and that seemed to choke the flow. Other times, the tube lost contact with the wick and flooding resulted. Changing to mesh straws worked for me and I won't go back. On my GS2 I filled the deep juice wells with some aluminum foil and cut the wick short. That setup is how my FEV is wicked and it's working great. Maybe a photo will show what I mean by a short wick. The straws feed a very minimal wick, just enough to cover the FEV screws.

Not sure Al foil is a good idea. Al is not good with acids and some juices, particularly the fruity ones are probably going to dissolve that over time...just saying!!

 

[anavidfan]

Not sure Al foil is a good idea. Al is not good with acids and some juices, particularly the fruity ones are probably going to dissolve that over time...just saying!!

I was kinda thinking the same, I saw someone use pads of KGD/ rayon/cotton etc to lift the shoulders. I just use longer tails and roll them under to keep the shoulders up and snug on the mesh tubes.

 

[dwcraig1]

Is anyone having issues with temperature control mods and the gt2? It seems somewhat unreliable unless I unscrew the bottom screw really far and let it sort of screw itself back in as I mount it to the mod.

Also can the base be separated into two pieces?

For a contribution to the thread.

I have the steam tuners matte that goes clear tank. It's really nice. I had ordered fast tech clear tanks and they all basically sucked. They don't fit normal drip tips. Which is a shame because outside hat they're nice and here cheap.

The effect of the matte tank turning clear from steam tuners. Nits more than your normal matte tank. It's made a different way somehow.

This is the fast tech tank. One out of five fit proper drop tips and it cracked from a. Juice hay shouldn't have made it crack. Disappointing when it looked so great.

Here is the steam tuners acrylic matte to
Clear tank

I realize this was a gt thread. I hope the gt2 is also part of it. If not I'll remove this and find the gt2 thread.

I am thinking of buying a gs2 to put on the ego one battery. The clone is fine but not great. It gets super hot when Vaping and it's kind of s pain to wick. I'd like to know if the authentic has these issues. Can't seem to find a gs2 thread though. If anyone can point me towards one. Or can anyone post a pic of their mesh straws? I have some but I'm not sure if mine are right. It's not exactly wicking with mesh bt I've never touched the stuff before. I'm having slight issues. I had a perfect build in the clone. Now it seems either it won't wick or its flooding. Some actual measurements of how much mesh to use. How tall how wide how tight of s roll. That would be helpful. I'd like to buy the authentic if it shrugs off heat better than the clone. The clone absolutely cooks. I've mostly settled on just tapping them down until they don't want to fall down further. Seems to level off providing new I use a ton of cotton with high shoulders. My main concern is the heat the clone carries through.

Here's what it looks like on a ego one battery. I get through about two ml of Juice on a charge built to about .7-8 with kanthal. Color isn't perfect but I had battery and it's close enough for horseshoes and hand grenades.

Thanks for the info all and I hope the picture and thoughts on the steam tuners tank helps someone out. They're also great people to deal With. Pretty fast shipping from Greece to the left side of the USA.

I'm going to give this a shot.
Starting with the 510. There isn't really a 510 standardization so so some 510 center pins are farther down than others. Adjust the atty's 510 screw as necessary, perhaps stretch the little spring out a bit or add a small insulator so the screw stays put.
On to the GS2, this one is a Hotcig GS2-22, a clone that rivals the authentic (sorry for that folks).
My mesh tubes are 2 mm id and will extend to the bottom of the wells.

My coil:

My wick:

Also my 16 year old cats in there somewhere.

 

[h00ligan]

Lol @ the cats

Thanks for the pics. My tubes are not hat long. Much much shorter.

Have you used the authentic gs2? The hotcig gt2!clones were awful compared to the authentic but everyone swore they were great. just curious if you've gone hands on the authentic. I don't recall which one I have from fast tech. But it's the best reviewed or was a month ago. The gt2 clones are ALL terrible. The way they split the base made them totally unreliable. And the overall fit and finish compared to the authentic. I'm not against clones. I have a ton. That attempt is just bad. Again all of them. The gs2 clone i have looks and works great except For getting baking hot.

Does your clone get hot if you chain vape ? Mine can get untouchably warm.

Im also Doing my cotton differently. I will post
Pics. I think I may be using too much cotton. I'm also placing it differently. I'll have to give your Methid a try. The tubes I have aren't that loose or big in the center. I think that's the main thing. Did you wrap them around something ? The way you have it doesn't seem like it's much different than using ptfe tubes. I wonder how're mechanics of that work.

Oh and on the 510. I get it. The issue is not a lack of standardization though it's the center screw pin. I feel like something is not right with it. Maybe the spring is screwing up temp control. It fits everything fine. It's just weird. It's hard to explain. Looking at it the tolerances are all there. The fit and finish is amazing.

I don't think the authentic gt2 comes apart.

The gs2 clone I have seems perfect. Maybe s little off on the air flow controllers.

 

[dwcraig1]

The hotdog gt2!clones were awful compared to the authentic but everyone swore they were great.

I find the above statement quite interesting but will not discuss it here. (not much anyway)
I assume that you have a GT2-S.
Nothing unusual with the heat but I'm sure that my wife could heat them up real good, she takes chain vaping to a whole other level. Even heats the battery.

 

[h00ligan]

Sorry I corrected most of my typos.
I have a condition requiring some
Surgery that mixes up my brain to hand signals. I try to do my best to proof read and go back to correct. Apologies.

 

[TrollDragon]

Nice work @dwcraig1!
I never thought to offset the mesh straws, I am going to try that on my GS II next rewick and see how it turns out.

 

[h00ligan]

Yah that's a good idea. I'm definitely going to try it.

This was the box mine came in

 

[dwcraig1]

Nice work @dwcraig1!
I never thought to offset the mesh straws, I am going to try that on my GS II next rewick and see how it turns out.

The tubes terminate into the wicks tail, if not touching good possible leakage may occur. If actually on the deck dry hits may happen at higher wattage.
BTW, I'm using rayon for wick with DNA200 @28 watts with 35 watt pre-heat @ 450 F. Live view in EScribe shows me just how well this is working.
Example:

Here's one with a problem wicking:

Red is temp, green is watts.

 

[TrollDragon]

I use Rayon as well so it should work out just fine with the 15W I run the GS II at.
Gotta love the DNA 200's ability to analyze your vape.

 

[h00ligan]

Is there a good small dna200 mod yet? Did they release the half power ones with smaller battery requirements? I have an opus 200 that has to be returned. I can't see replacing it with anything that isn't smaller

 

[TrollDragon]

Yah that's a good idea. I'm definitely going to try it.

This was the box mine came in

I got the same box with my Foggy-B version.

 

[h00ligan]

Yah I think that's what I have. Any idea the differences to the hotcig. I specifically avoided the hotcig after the gt2 disasters.

I'm really considering the authentic what a boils down to the heat produced if it also has a problem of just getting super hot I probably won't