Are anyone running TC on their mesh setups? It should be possible, but is there any point to it, as the temp of the mesh would lag the temp of the wire quite a bit?
TC with mesh
- Thread starter SteamBlower
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I have been using TC with mesh for a few months now. I can say when its working there's nothing better(that ive tried yet, just picked up some porous ceramic wick to replace the mesh with but havnt got it workin right yet)but it tends to be a little finicky. Initial setup produces the best results, once the coil gets gunked up, for me like 5-10 tanks I cannot get the coils cleaned like I could with kanthal. Ive tried cleaning my TI wire many different ways and found pressurized air and pulsing low watts works best but it tends to mess with the resistance and I get hot spots.. Hot spots are a big problem with TI or NI wire as it can produce harmful gasses. I am always looking for suggestions but for now I am going to try and get the ceramic wick going.
What temp were you running on mesh, and how many revolutions of wire were you using? I tried a TC build once on my cloupor mini +, but after the first hit it would mistake my hot mesh for a dry coil,and refuse to fire. Maybe my temp setting was to low or not enough wire in contact with the mesh? Am considering giving it a second try, but wonder if is worth the trubble.
What kind of wire?
I found best results by doing a spaced 5/6 wrapped coil for about .26-.29ohms to increase the surface area of heat. I used a #325 mesh solid wick, for my 1/8" wick hole I used about 2 1/4" wide piece of mesh rolled tight. Oxidized just the part that could short to the upper deck or coils, 3 heat cycles, then 3 juice burns. Once the coil is on without juice I pulsed my wire with about 8w-10w on regular VW/VV mode until the coils glowed evenly and turned blue. You do not want them bright red this can ruin your coil, I did this in a dark room. If just the top coils are glowing you will want to poke at them with a small screw driver to try and get the coils to glow as evenly as they can. A tightly wrapped coil is important, ideally there will be no air gaps between the coil and mesh. I usually wrap my coil around the wick while its in my atomizer. Once it's set up and your coils glow fairly evenly at low watts you can switch to TC mode. Depending on your chip if you can you want to use the mode for either NI or TI depending on what wire you're using.
In TI mode I run about 440F-500F at 40W depending on the juice and how dirty my coils are, more gunk on the coils needs more heat and ive found some juices like more or less heat. I have never tried NI wire but Ive heard good things, the low resistance of the wire scared me away. If your mod only does NI mode and your using TI wire set your target temp about 100F less than what you're actually going for, in my case it would be 340f-400f. Also be sure to let the coils cool down to room temp from the pulsing before you add juice and lock in the resistance. Some mods you cannot lock the resistance, I have not had much time to play with those but when my resistance is not locked it seems to spatter a bit more than if it's locked.
Few things ive ran into, dont leave the mod out in the cold, it messes with your resistance and it takes some patience to get it back to room temperature and locked in at the original resistance. If you notice your resistance reading changed more than +-.02 something is wrong and you may need to inspect or move the coils around because they can still short to the mesh. I have not ran into a "dry fire" warning which leads me to believe your coils were not tight enough, you werent wicking enough or just simply we have different chips and mine is not as picky. I am using a cheap Chinese Joyteck Evic VT. The DNA chips seem to be a little more picky... but may work better when set up right.
In all I preferred temp control over non with kanthal and mesh, once its set up you never get a dry hit. I got about an extra week or two out of the same coil and the mesh seems to last a lot longer. You could probably use the same mesh for 3+ months, I changed my mesh ever month regardless. My only problem with TC on my genny is I cannot clean the coil as easily, the best method ive found is turn it back to VW/VV mode and pulse at 8-10w and use pressurized air to blow the crud free, but for some reason after I am done cleaning I got hot top coil syndrome and occasionally ruins my coil. Hope I didn't over write this up... kind ran on a bit.
I found best results by doing a spaced 5/6 wrapped coil for about .26-.29ohms to increase the surface area of heat. I used a #325 mesh solid wick, for my 1/8" wick hole I used about 2 1/4" wide piece of mesh rolled tight. Oxidized just the part that could short to the upper deck or coils, 3 heat cycles, then 3 juice burns. Once the coil is on without juice I pulsed my wire with about 8w-10w on regular VW/VV mode until the coils glowed evenly and turned blue. You do not want them bright red this can ruin your coil, I did this in a dark room. If just the top coils are glowing you will want to poke at them with a small screw driver to try and get the coils to glow as evenly as they can. A tightly wrapped coil is important, ideally there will be no air gaps between the coil and mesh. I usually wrap my coil around the wick while its in my atomizer. Once it's set up and your coils glow fairly evenly at low watts you can switch to TC mode. Depending on your chip if you can you want to use the mode for either NI or TI depending on what wire you're using.
In TI mode I run about 440F-500F at 40W depending on the juice and how dirty my coils are, more gunk on the coils needs more heat and ive found some juices like more or less heat. I have never tried NI wire but Ive heard good things, the low resistance of the wire scared me away. If your mod only does NI mode and your using TI wire set your target temp about 100F less than what you're actually going for, in my case it would be 340f-400f. Also be sure to let the coils cool down to room temp from the pulsing before you add juice and lock in the resistance. Some mods you cannot lock the resistance, I have not had much time to play with those but when my resistance is not locked it seems to spatter a bit more than if it's locked.
Few things ive ran into, dont leave the mod out in the cold, it messes with your resistance and it takes some patience to get it back to room temperature and locked in at the original resistance. If you notice your resistance reading changed more than +-.02 something is wrong and you may need to inspect or move the coils around because they can still short to the mesh. I have not ran into a "dry fire" warning which leads me to believe your coils were not tight enough, you werent wicking enough or just simply we have different chips and mine is not as picky. I am using a cheap Chinese Joyteck Evic VT. The DNA chips seem to be a little more picky... but may work better when set up right.
In all I preferred temp control over non with kanthal and mesh, once its set up you never get a dry hit. I got about an extra week or two out of the same coil and the mesh seems to last a lot longer. You could probably use the same mesh for 3+ months, I changed my mesh ever month regardless. My only problem with TC on my genny is I cannot clean the coil as easily, the best method ive found is turn it back to VW/VV mode and pulse at 8-10w and use pressurized air to blow the crud free, but for some reason after I am done cleaning I got hot top coil syndrome and occasionally ruins my coil. Hope I didn't over write this up... kind ran on a bit.
Last edited:
- Status
