Well, I may have spoke too soon. Now its doing the 0.0 ohm again with the new o-ring.
- Status
It seems a bit temperamental, but its working better than it did before the fix.
I'm guessing you did the o-ring fix rather than stealing the actual piece you need from somewhere else? If you have almost anything laying around with a 510 connection on it that you don't mind popping the center pin out of, you'll see that the "washer" is actually just the top part of a piece approx 3-4mm in total length. Everything from the "washer" down is what holds the center pin in place and insulates it from the negative. That's why the washer fix didn't work for me. But after 30 minutes or so of searching, I came across that video I posted the link to in a previous post, and didn't even have to finish watching it to figure out the problem and how to fix it. No soldering is required to use the fix in the video. Here's the link: Vamo Rubber Ring Tutorial & Fix - YouTube Hope you get it working right!
I'm guessing you did the o-ring fix rather than stealing the actual piece you need from somewhere else? If you have almost anything laying around with a 510 connection on it that you don't mind popping the center pin out of, you'll see that the "washer" is actually just the top part of a piece approx 3-4mm in total length. Everything from the "washer" down is what holds the center pin in place and insulates it from the negative. That's why the washer fix didn't work for me. But after 30 minutes or so of searching, I came across that video I posted the link to in a previous post, and didn't even have to finish watching it to figure out the problem and how to fix it. No soldering is required to use the fix in the video. Here's the link: Vamo Rubber Ring Tutorial & Fix - YouTube Hope you get it working right!
I think I found the best answer. I just bought some insulators from Avid Vapor. 510 Threaded Connector Insulators - Avid Vaper
Did you use the Danco #60 O-rings and if so did you cut once or twice to get it on there? imo that black rubber is way better than the standard silcon type insulators. Also are you trying more than one carto/tank etc... on it?
Posted this in another thread but thought it might be appreciated here too.
Haven't had to disassemble/reassemble my vamo yet but expect I will someday.
Old trick from another project regarding getting the buttons back in. Get the buttons back in the hole while holding the tube level, button holes facing down. Then stick you finger in the tube to hold them in place a moment. Use a piece of scotch tape (or anything that's handy) to hold the buttons (and possibly the window) in place while you finish assembly.
This should make things much easier.
Haven't had to disassemble/reassemble my vamo yet but expect I will someday.
Old trick from another project regarding getting the buttons back in. Get the buttons back in the hole while holding the tube level, button holes facing down. Then stick you finger in the tube to hold them in place a moment. Use a piece of scotch tape (or anything that's handy) to hold the buttons (and possibly the window) in place while you finish assembly.
This should make things much easier.
I was able to get the black #60 o-ring seated with out cutting it at all. It is working, but it looks to me like the longer type insulators will work better because they cover more of the outside of the pin then the o-rings do. That means less chance of shorting out on anything, like the edges of the hole into the unit. It works with the o-rings. Its just not consistent. The other insulators will go into the hole and protect the pin from hitting the edges.
Last edited:
Yes, that's exactly what you need. I stole mine from a 510 connector I had laying around here. I didn't know they sold just the insulator separate. You won't have to solder anything to install that - just slide it over the positive post. It's a bit tedious, but can be done with a little patience.
Just fixed this problem last night before even looking on here but if u guys are like me I have tons of vivi nova heads laying around and I used the bottom rubber price that separates the coil wire as a gasket for the center pin works good so far and it's a nice fit
I have a torpedo from TV that had what sounds like a similar problem. I think it occurred from tightening the clearo down to tightly. I sprayed a little silicone in and giggled the button and it just popped out. I don't know if it's the same issue, but thought I'd suggest another alternative for those that my be adverse to "reconstruction".
Of course I copied all the info for this to Word in case my quick and easy doesn't work since I have one of these on order.
After trial and error with the #60 o-rings, I found that the insulators from Avid Vapors work better. I was having intermittent results with the black o-rings. Meaning they didn't work all of the time. I have an insulator in now and so far it's working better.
http://www.avidvaper.com/510-threaded-connector-insulators/
http://www.avidvaper.com/510-threaded-connector-insulators/
Awesome! Mine has been good for quite some time now - a heck of a lot longer than the original insulator lasted! lol Maybe we should send that link to the manufacturer in China so they can fix their quality control problem?
Thank you for sharing this fix. I kept getting the LO error message. Originally I thought it was a problem with the spring not keeping the battery in place but today no amount of messing with the batteries and springs would fix the error message. I thought my VAMO was trash and even though not real expensive to replace I just don't have the $$ to do it right now. I read this fix And decided for under $3 I would give it a shot. Imagine my complete joy whe. It worked! My VAMO is alive and I have been happily vaping away tonight. Thank you all for you knowledge and sharing it!!
If by top button you mean the flat positive post inside the 510 connector, yes it is fixable. You'll need to solder the wire back on it. May require taking off the head of the unit. See earlier in this thread for instructions.
Yah the #60 o-ring didn't really help much. It still allowed the pin to touch the sides of the hole into the unit. It was a better fit and covered the edges of the hole when I used the original type gromet. It has a lip that fits over and under the hole. Didn't matter what type of clearo/carto I used.
Last edited:
I just don't really see how the #60 let any part of that pin touch anything. The thing is so tight when you get it in there... I dunno your mileage may vary I guess. My pin couldn't move or touch anything if it wanted to. That soft stuff is what was in there in the first place, I didn't want it to just push down and break again.
I could be wrong about the o-ring because my Vamo will only stay on while a battery is in it. It won't turn off at all now, so its pretty much useless. In other words, it may have had other issues besides the pin shorting. I tried to get the top off to work on it, but its in there too tight and I believe I'll destroy it if I keep trying.
Last edited:
Here is how I fixed this problem. Went to lowes and got some small diameter heat shrink tubing, pulled up the center pin and wire, forced the tubing over it, cut off the excess and then keeping it WAY back, I used my hand torch to shrink the tubing down solid. Then i trimmed the excess and pushed the pin back down. TADA...no more error.
- Status
Similar threads
