VAMO OHM Error FIX!

[rothenbj]

Sorry for the delay, yes I removed the original ring first. It has to be removed as there isn't enough room for both rings at the same time. I think I worked it away from the center pin from the center first and then started working the edge up over the connector.

It might be easier to carefully work the connector out as far as the connecting wire will allow to both remove the old ring and install the one. Then just push the connector back into place with the new ring on.

No problem. I thought it would have to be removed but the more I tried, the lower it got until I was afraid I'd break the wire with all my digging. I finally gave up and stretched the uncut No 60 O ring over the connector and was able to get it back into place. Back in business again.

 

[CheriePie]

Thanks to the OP of this thread I was able to fix my Vamo v3 which began to exhibit similar problems.

I don't use an eGo connector with mine but I noticed the problem started after I leaked a ton of juice into the connector (faulty head on one of my devices). That gunked up the installed o-ring pretty bad so that the pin was constantly sliding down inside the ring. I pulled it up a few times based on the info given in the first post until I could get to Home Depot to pick up the right replacement o-rings. (I have body jewelry o-rings but wasn't too sure if they had the right OD, ID, and thickness so figured I'd just go with ones that were tried and true... later read that the 4g is the right size and so I might actually have several extras on hand since I'm at 2g and moving to 0g shortly.)

Anyhoo, with a little help from hubby, we were finally able to get that old o-ring out of there, that part was a bit of a ...... But once that was taken care of, getting the new ring on there was a walk in the park!

Thanks again for this thread and all the super helpful advice contributed by the OP and others.

 

[rothenbj]

...

Anyhoo, with a little help from hubby, we were finally able to get that old o-ring out of there, that part was a bit of a ...... But once that was taken care of, getting the new ring on there was a walk in the park!......

Yeah, I thought I had it out a few times but it ended up getting buried so deep that I just pushed it down a bit and left it. Works fine and I didn't need to cut the new one to install.

 

[MrSelf Destruct]

OP thanks for this. Just did it to my vamo and it worked great! Able to use my protank again without an adapter.

 

[MrSelf Destruct]

Anyone ever try this fix on an SVD?

 

[MrSelf Destruct]

Anyone ever try this fix on an SVD?

Works on the SVD also. Just fixed mine. A little more difficult to remove the original o ring on the SVD than it was on the Vamo but was the same fix.

 

[MrThunderfield]

Yep, this technique works fantastically. I just removed the grommet, cut it in one place (since I couldn't get it back down when it was whole), and easily pushed it back under the pin. My Vamo works again!

It does make the grommet much looser, so you might have to push it back down from time to time.

 

[Koman]

Anyone ever try this fix on an SVD?

Planning to try this.

 

[geeve]

Just did this because my Vamo was starting to misfire and the original o ring looked more like a doughnut, and the pin was sunk in pretty good. very little above the oring. Getting the old ring out was a huge pain in the ***, but getting the new one wasn't to bad. I started getting nervous but in the end it worked and all is good now Thank you OP for posting this!!

Geeve

 

[yo han]

Why don't they put a spring under the center pin? I mean, I have cheap Vivi Nova clones which have a spring loaded center pin. It would make more sense to do this on the mod itself. This problem exists for a long time now, has no manufacturer ever thought of improving the 510/eGo connector?

 

[K_Tech]

Why don't they put a spring under the center pin? I mean, I have cheap Vivi Nova clones which have a spring loaded center pin. It would make more sense to do this on the mod itself. This problem exists for a long time now, has no manufacturer ever thought of improving the 510/eGo connector?

And if not a spring, at least a thicker/more durable washer or grommet under the center pin.

 

[rothenbj]

Look, I know fixing the design error is a PIA. You need to run to HD or get the O ring from some other source. Then you need to pull out the old or as I ended up doing, pushing it down into the body. Then finally cutting the O ring and installing or, again as I did, pull the pin up and roll the o ring on uncut. Not counting shopping time, I think I spent half an hour fixing mine. Knowing what I know now, perhaps a ten minute fix.

I don't know what people have spent for there Vamo, I think mine cost $40, less than a carton of cigarettes. I bought mine 7 months ago and since the fix, going strong. By the time it dies, there will be a lot of next, best mods available and I'll find something new. It's the nature of the beast. I still really like this unit.

 

[jistjul]

Where can I find the longer grommets in the picture that will work in bottom-feed tank atomizers? I just started rebuilding my pyrex smoktech aro attys and although mine are still new enough that they don't need replacing, I would like to find a source for them for the future. Also, perhaps slightly off topic, does anyone know what size o-rings you need for the base of this tank? I assume that these will need replacing at some point as well. Thirdly, how about the top silicone "cap" that slides on the tube?

 

[CShaver]

Reviving this thread so I can find it easier incase I need to do the fix when my V5 comes in a week or 2.

 

[K_Tech]

Reviving this thread so I can find it easier incase I need to do the fix when my V5 comes in a week or 2.

Hopefully that won't be necessary. There's a lot of folks that don't run into problems with theirs.

 

[CShaver]

Hopefully that won't be necessary. There's a lot of folks that don't run into problems with theirs.

Lol while I hope I'm one of those people, my luck seems to dictate otherwise. So I figure that I might as well be prepared for when it happens

 

[Rimau]

Finally needed to do the o-ring mod. Easiest thing yet. Here is what I did: used an o-ring with ID 5/32 and OD 9/32 from a set I have from Harbor Freight. Used a dental pick to pull up on the pin, then used it to pull out the stock white o-ring. Then (without cutting th o-ring at all) I got one side started and while holding up the pin with one pick, used another dental pick to push it down all the way around. Went down no problem, then pushed the pin down until seated. Tightened a vivi nova down fairly tight to make sure the pin was seated as far as possible, and it was fixed. No cuts, completely sealed, and really easy.

Yes, I know I am just repeating the obvious, but this is what I wanted to add since I really couldn't find a direct answer anywhere and wanted to let others know. Since I have disassembled and fixed plenty of batts, I know that the pin can be pulled out really far, but I wanted to know how far on the Vamo. If I screwed it up, I would just re-solder it, but I didn't want to have to do that, and didn't.

Therefore: pull the pin up pretty far (I am talking about the v5 model) and you will have plenty of room to fit a complete o-ring around it. I pulled it up to almost where the bottom notches are. If you only pull it out a little, it is going to be more difficult, I was able to do the complete procedure in about 3 minutes, and I wasn't rushing it either. Couldn't believe it was that easy after hearing fellow forum members having a tough time. I think it has to do with the amount of space you give yourself with the pin. Remember, I used 2 curved tip dental picks, they are small enough to get two in there and the curve helps hold the lip of the pin better.

Good luck, and I hope this helps someone. BTW, I checked the ohms that the Vamo gave me with the fix against a meter, and they were spot on.

I did this before I read Jimsmith94's piece, but just wanted to let everyone know that it works that way, is easy, and to give the specific ID and OD in case anyone has some extra o-rings lying around, or were just wondering.

 

[The Ministry]

Thanks for the thread. Been having intermittent faults with my V5 not reading the tank correctly - I was getting 0.0 ohm readings when "tight" - had to loosen the air flow controller and/or the actual tank to get a 1.5ohm or a 2.1ohm reading depending on the coil.

Got a small screwdriver and managed to get the pin back above the washer. I'll take a trip to a store and replace this weekend.

I guess I've been a bit firm when attaching the 510 airflow controller so self inflicted! Least it is fixed, so all good (for now!)

 

[GwenB]

So I've been scouring this thread trying to figure out why my new vamo was under performing compared to my 10 month old Vamo.
It would periodically shut off but was not giving me the tell tale ohm error.
Being 10 days out of warranty, I decided to try the gasket fix. After a few tries it worked. I did not buy the pack of gaskets from Home Depot, I simply used one of the o-rings from a drip tip that I did not like. I actually had to cut it a half to get it to fit. I removed the old white gasket with a pin to ease it up and over the center post ( make sure to get all of it as mine was broken in two) . There should be no white rubber left. Then gently maneuvered the new gasket into place. Once the gasket was in place, I gently pushed down the center post on top of the new gasket. used a small flathead screwdriver (the kind used to repair eye glasses). I had no luck with tweezers but the tiny flat head screwdriver does work There is also a video of this process.

I want to thank all those that contribute to the forum. Without you, I would be out 50 bucks.

 

[darkmader]

Well if you're getting the V5 and you've read the sections here it's a must to get an air flow controller. You can pick them up for $7 or so with shipping and it's a life saver. The trick is to raise the collar as high as you can with the air flow controller on to pick up contact with all your devices and you're good to go. Mine has shown a bit of wear and tear, but it's the AFC so I don't care, and don't ask me how but somehow (had to be a pocket issue) I lost the metal piece that raises and lowers but it still works fine so I'll have to pick up another one that ppl always link to from a well known company that I forget now and don't have time to do research and compare it to the one I have now and post my findings.

The other thing, even without an AFC on a Vamo you will get more life out of both if you screw your devices on vertically and never sideways. I learned that quickly as I'm constantly changing my 2 protanks and Iclear30 all the time.