What do I need to know about using a reo?

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ancient puffer

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English translation: batteries are rated as to how many amps they are able to safely discharge. Amps are just a function of volts (we use 4.2 since that's the maximum your batteries charge to) and resistance (determined by how much wire is in your coil).

You can calculate how many amps you're going to be drawing from the battery (the formula is amps=volts/resistance), but realistically, using good batteries (for example AW IMR 18650's 1600mah) you only need to be sure you don't have a short. If your resistance is any where near the sane end of the scale (.5 to 1.0+ ohms), you're well within safety limits.
 

RuDawg7890

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I'm anxious to hear your thoughts on the Kuro kit! Nice find!
Yeah man, me too!
New REO & the Kuro tomorrow, should be vaping bliss of a weekend!!

Sorry to kinda hijack your thread Niki, but thought you might wanna check out the Kuro kit as well. RTD is great place for batteries too.
 

Debadoo

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Niki, don't worry about stuff not sounding like English. Ohm, I knew, cuz that is how I bought coils for other tanks. The rest of it, made my eyes roll up and made my head spin. If you're building above an ohm, you're good. Batts from RTD are good quality not clones. As long as you check for shorts with top cap on (and DT if it's metal) you should be good to go. There are a bunch of us that don't understand all the technical stuff, but we're still vaping safe. If there is ever any question about it, a quick.......hey y'all can I do this without blowin up?? Is all that's needed. lol

sloth, I have sumpthin for you hun......I saw this and thought it was perfect for you (if you ever lose your cool). lol Bound to happen at some point over sumpthin lol

Sloth meditate, burn candles, still wanna choke someone.jpg
 

Robinowitz

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RTD has the Kuro Concepts version for $15, made in the USA.
Not trying to high jack the thread but I just found the authentic Kuros on EBay $11.95 for set of 3! Have always wanted to try them and really like to buy U.S. Made stuff too..
 

RuDawg7890

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Not trying to high jack the thread but I just found the authentic Kuros on EBay $11.95 for set of 3! Have always wanted to try them and really like to buy U.S. Made stuff too..
Just about every site I saw that carries the Kuro seems to have lowered the price to $15 or less. I'm guessing they're trying to keep up with the competition from coil master.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

JC Okie

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Could you explain that in more detail please?

@kkay59
You can check for shortages while the atty is just sitting there with a new coil and get a good reading. Then, after you put the cap on, you could have a short if any part of the metal cap touches the coil. If you haven't checked again with the metal cap screwed on, you won't know you have a short until you fire it and it melts your spring. The same thing can happen with a metal drip tip. If you have no short after you have checked with the cap on, you could still cause a short if your metal drip tip accidentally touches your coil. This could happen if a coil is too high, or a metal drip tip pushes down into the cap too far.
 

kkay59

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I am used to checking with multi meter. I have also put attys on a regulated mod to check. But Reos are different. I don't know how you can check with the top cap and drip tip on. I put the multi meter on the positive, and negative post. You would have to take the atty off to put the meter wire on the bottom thread, and top of the positive pin, I thought. I have checked a normal atty with bottom thread (510), and the center pin, to find the ohms. But the bottom fed attys are a little different. I take it the DT stands for drip tip then.
 
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Fuzzy Bruce

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It would probably, I will definitely look into one whenever that time may come.

I am used to checking with multi meter. I have also put attys on a regulated mod to check. But Reos are different. I don't know how you can check with the top cap and drip tip on. I put the multi meter on the positive, and negative post. You would have to take the atty off to put the meter wire on the bottom thread, and top of the positive pin, I thought. I have checked a normal atty with bottom thread (510), and the center pin, to find the ohms. But the bottom fed attys are a little different. I take it the DT stands for drip tip then.

I too, sometimes use a multimeter. You can check for shorts by putting one lead on the base of the atty and the other lead right in the hole of the positive pin.
 

dbrandt01

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Thank you guys.

Keep in mind I got a cheap $30 multimeter, so I have to subtract 0.8 ohms (at this time, checked it 3 times to make sure I got the correct number to subtract. to get to my actual reading compared to my ohm meter and such. This is a 0.5 build, but just to show you how I check with an multimeter meter even though I did a video of it too. Just took this picture a couple minutes ago

 
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Debadoo

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Glad everyone got ya fixed up on that KK. I wasn't on last night. Great pic Danny! I don't have a DMM (digital multimeter) but have one of those doohickey things. I mostly use my ohm meter. Used a VW mod before I got the ohm meter. I have a thing like this that I use to check my batts, but mine has two leads instead of 3. One day i'll get a DMM. But for now this and the ohm meter, take up less space. Mini DC 0 1 30V LED Panel Voltage Meter 3 Digital Display Voltmeter Motorcycle | eBay
 

kkay59

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Well Danny had a great photo too. I tried the meter on the top of the spring, and the firing pin. That looks like the easiest. I was just doing the Rogue with the top off, and pos and neg post checked. I like putting an atty on a regulated mod to check too. But I'm not wanting juice in my vv/vw mods.
 
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misswish1

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Nikinic, thanks for starting this thread. I am reading everything I can about Reos, trying to be ready when Rob sends my mini back. I really appreciate all the info everyone is offering! It is like a different language, and there are so many threads to sort out.
 
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