Search results

OK OK I got it finally. If anyone else has this problem, here is the solution: remove the build deck, all O-rings, small insulator in the center of the 510 so you have ONLY the base. now, screw the base on a device, screw the tank section to the base (without the build deck and chimney). Now...

Hello every1 I have recently come across a huge problem with the Hurricane. The air flow control ring has lost it's "clicks" and it is loose loose loose loose... Has any1 figured out a way to get the air flow control ring out some way?

For Sale/Trade POSTING IN THE THREAD IS REQUIRED FOR FEEDBACK TO BE ENABLED Selling: GG Ithaka Serial 0292 with deck update and extendable parts Condition: Good Known flaws: None Image: Description: This is real collector's choice!!! Authentic GG Ithaka rebuildable tank atomizer with the...

For Sale/Trade POSTING IN THE THREAD IS REQUIRED FOR FEEDBACK TO BE ENABLED Selling: Provari V3 Stealth Military Edition Condition: Good Known flaws: None Image: Description: Provari V3 Stealth Military Edition Willing to ship to: US I reside in: US Other: Shipping add-ons: Price...

For Sale/Trade POSTING IN THE THREAD IS REQUIRED FOR FEEDBACK TO BE ENABLED Selling: Wismec Reuleaux DNA 200 Condition: Like New Known flaws: none Image: Description: Wismec Reuleaux DNA 200 Willing to ship to: USA buyer I reside in: US Other: Shipping add-ons: USPS Priority Price...

Hi imeo. I also get a lot of gurgling with the telescopic mouthpiece. is it possible that liquid finds its way from that tiny little space between the moving parts of the telescopic mouthpiece?

Hi imeo. I received my telescopic mouthpiece today, but when you extend it, it is not stable, and it moves from side to side, and also it can be accidentally pushed in and it is difficult to pull it out. how can I make it more solid and stable?

sure did, sure. Here is what I ended up doing: put the base (with the coil) in boiling water for two minutes, dry burn, boil again to make sure everything is clean and shiny, and re-assemble ithaka and start vaping. it seems to be working fine.

thank you very much

Hi everyone. I would appreciate if you could explain what is the best way for dry burning a wick and coil. I always chage it as soon as I feel it is gunked up, and have never tried dry burning. I use a Provari by the way. Thanx

the reason why the center pin is not in the middle of the 510 post: you screw the center pin to the ceramic housing TOO HARD, and the buttom of the ceramic housing bites the plastic insulator more on one side than the other. unscrew it and take a look at your plastic insulator, and you will...

Does anyone have any tips for reducing the moist condensation inside the air control area and on the mod's positive post? my setup has a looooot of condensation (not eliquid) in the air control area

Take a look at this. 3.4 ohms!!! 32 AWG Kanthal (joined with no-res wire)

your sweet spot voltage depends on the capacitance of your capacitor in use. I wouldn't give out numbers. It is trial and error. I am using two different capacitors, with different capacitance levels, so my sweet spot voltage is different on each. Using a higher capacitance capacitor, lower...

OK, I have a little question here. Why do I sometimes, repeat, sometimes get a burnt taste as if a wicking issue is there, and then good wicking after two or three puffs???? I can see air bubbles getting into the tank from the ceramic channels, so my ithaka is breathing right and wicking right...

using ribbon wire gives a looooooot of vapor, because the surface area of hot wire in contact with the wick is greater, but also increases the amount of gunking. ribbon wires get dirty much sooner than regular wire.

when you get a drop of liquid inside the central air hole, the liquid comes down and ends up on the positive pole of your device, in my case, a provari. this liquid has nowhere to go and stays there and disrupts the airflow and makes a noise. if you deepen that cut by about 2 mm, the air passes...

I used a small file. You can use a hacksaw as well. you just have to make it 2 milimeters deeper (+1 mm original=3 mm final depth)

Here is a picture. Making this cut bigger by 2 milimeters, will make air flow smoother and more efficient even when there is a drop of liquid on the positive connector of your PV device.

Hi Imeo. Just found a huge fix: When a little amount of liquid gets into the center air hole, even with the central pin shortened, the liquid goes down the center air hole, and ends up on the positive pole of the electronic cigarette( in my case, my provari ). Now when you want to inhale, air...