Ithaka official

[imeothanasis]

i think that your CT got full after some days of use and it finally leaked sub. I believe that it would be nice if you clean CT every 2 days with water

 

[eratikmind]

Imeo, I have had my Ithaka for about 1-1/2 weeks. I am quite impressed with it. So much, that I just ordered another one.

Many may choose to purchase a Ithakaish device. I will pay you your dues and respect by ordering a genuine GG product.

- Andy

 

[imeothanasis]

thank you for being an inteligent person eratik. Not only because you support the real maker but because your device will hold or increase its value. And of course you dont support untrusted people

 

[fright88]

Hey Fright,

What are you vaping for juice now?

Chris

I have Watermelon loaded in my Woodie/Penny combo and Monster in my GGTS/Ithaka. Monstermelon in my RSM

 

[fright88]

I have rebuilt my ithaka 5 times in the last two days and it leaks bad. I have added the extra 2x2 suggested by bishop, I have tighted everything but I can't pin point where it is leaking, I find juice everywhere including my hand, collecter tank and driping from the top cap when juice isn't even half full. I have lost two bottles of juice...I have no idea where to begin...I feel like sealing it up with silicon lol. Is there a written diagram or breakdown of parts? I have watched the videos but I am missing something. It has a decent amount of vapor production but flavor is muted compared to dripping....any help appreciated.

Cheers,
PerfectElu
"On the level"

What mix juice are you using? Also what size wick and how much and is basic feeding open?

 

[Alireza355]

Hi everyone. I would appreciate if you could explain what is the best way for dry burning a wick and coil. I always chage it as soon as I feel it is gunked up, and have never tried dry burning. I use a Provari by the way. Thanx

 

[fright88]

I normally start by rinsing and drying as much as I can. Then attach to your device leaving coil and wick exposed. At the start you can hold fire for longer if the wick is wet but once the coil starts to glow try 1-3 second pulses (depends on your wire thickness) Hold 1-3 seconds let off then repeat do this for about 20 seconds. Stop and blow off the coil really well. Repeat this process till the coil glows pure and doesn't look like it has any carbon or black spots. I normally use a cloth and give the coil a slight wipe off every 2 burn cycles (burn cycle being the 20 seconds of firing/not firing)

Once the coil seems to be glowing with no dark spots or gunk you can rinse and dry again the fill and vape like normal. Untill you burn off all the water you will get very little vapor production but my coils usually start working again within 15 minutes or so like normal. I used this process to keep my last ithaka coil alive for 2 3/4 months.

 

[Alireza355]

I normally start by rinsing and drying as much as I can. Then attach to your device leaving coil and wick exposed. At the start you can hold fire for longer if the wick is wet but once the coil starts to glow try 1-3 second pulses (depends on your wire thickness) Hold 1-3 seconds let off then repeat do this for about 20 seconds. Stop and blow off the coil really well. Repeat this process till the coil glows pure and doesn't look like it has any carbon or black spots. I normally use a cloth and give the coil a slight wipe off every 2 burn cycles (burn cycle being the 20 seconds of firing/not firing)

Once the coil seems to be glowing with no dark spots or gunk you can rinse and dry again the fill and vape like normal. Untill you burn off all the water you will get very little vapor production but my coils usually start working again within 15 minutes or so like normal. I used this process to keep my last ithaka coil alive for 2 3/4 months.

thank you very much

 

[pl_svn]

... ok... fifth rebuilt attempt on my Ithaka, even if not necessary I put a brand new centre post o-ring and... now I see it floods, then leaks, from basic feeding that I previously always left open on one channel


but the big issue I now have is... how the hell am i supposed to take apart steel and plastic (see picture) and where/how should I place the new orings? (I removed the center pin to clean the juice sitting there on top, then when I tried re-inserting it... )

 

[yankeebobo]

Pl. use some rubber grippers and plyers. If you can't find grippers (like a silicone hot mat), take two plyers. You won't need as much pressure as it looks you'll need to take that apart. Small twist Small plyers will help grab an area with less threads. Needle nose.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

 

[pl_svn]

Pl. use some rubber grippers and plyers. If you can't find grippers (like a silicone hot mat), take two plyers. You won't need as much pressure as it looks you'll need to take that apart. Small twist Small plyers will help grab an area with less threads. Needle nose.

... in the while I cooled down and found the right tools. job done (thank god I also had the spares )

just... when I took off the center pin I thought if it slides out it will also slide back in without the need of tearing every single piece apart!

thank you very much, yankeebobo

 

[yankeebobo]

... in the while I cooled down and found the right tools. job done (thank god I also had the spares )

just... when I took off the center pin I thought if it slides out it will also slide back in without the need of tearing every single piece apart!

thank you very much, yankeebobo

Yea you need to take that apart to reassemble those orings on the post. Ask me how I know.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

 

[pl_svn]

Ask me how I know.

... how do you know?

 

[subver]

i think that your CT got full after some days of use and it finally leaked sub. I believe that it would be nice if you clean CT every 2 days with water

You're right, I definitely need to clean my CT more! This morning I looked at the Oring on the center post and it was definitely a lot more wet, so I think there is a very slow leak there.

Can this happen when the rebuildable part is screwed in too tight? I might have screwed it in very hard when I set up MrKrinkle method because I was afraid unscrewing the mouthpiece would unscrew the whole assembly because there is no wick in the channels (no real resistance to keep it screwed in)

 

[Ariel_MX]

Hi everyone. I would appreciate if you could explain what is the best way for dry burning a wick and coil. I always chage it as soon as I feel it is gunked up, and have never tried dry burning. I use a Provari by the way. Thanx

I normally start by rinsing and drying as much as I can. Then attach to your device leaving coil and wick exposed. At the start you can hold fire for longer if the wick is wet but once the coil starts to glow try 1-3 second pulses (depends on your wire thickness) Hold 1-3 seconds let off then repeat do this for about 20 seconds. Stop and blow off the coil really well. Repeat this process till the coil glows pure and doesn't look like it has any carbon or black spots. I normally use a cloth and give the coil a slight wipe off every 2 burn cycles (burn cycle being the 20 seconds of firing/not firing)

Once the coil seems to be glowing with no dark spots or gunk you can rinse and dry again the fill and vape like normal. Untill you burn off all the water you will get very little vapor production but my coils usually start working again within 15 minutes or so like normal. I used this process to keep my last ithaka coil alive for 2 3/4 months.

And here is a video tutorial by Bishopheals:

 

[Ariel_MX]

... ok... fifth rebuilt attempt on my Ithaka, even if not necessary I put a brand new centre post o-ring and... now I see it floods, then leaks, from basic feeding that I previously always left open on one channel


but the big issue I now have is... how the hell am i supposed to take apart steel and plastic (see picture) and where/how should I place the new orings? (I removed the center pin to clean the juice sitting there on top, then when I tried re-inserting it... )

Maybe it is too late, but as a reference it could help, check this section on the GG Wiki (there is a tutorial by lee72 and two videos (VaporKings & Bishopheals):

GGTS - E-Cigarette Wiki

 

[thatton]

I tried re-wrapping a coil yesterday and for some reason I cannot get anything other than low ohm readings out of my provari, I've tried 30ga, 32ga, and tried 4 wrap, 5 wrap, 6 wrap and even 7 and 8. No matter what I am getting low ohm readings and an E1 when I try to fire on the Provari. Any ideas? When I dissasemble and clean to try again, all of the parts are in tact and nothing appears out of the ordinary.

 

[Darkreign]

I tried re-wrapping a coil yesterday and for some reason I cannot get anything other than low ohm readings out of my provari, I've tried 30ga, 32ga, and tried 4 wrap, 5 wrap, 6 wrap and even 7 and 8. No matter what I am getting low ohm readings and an E1 when I try to fire on the Provari. Any ideas? When I dissasemble and clean to try again, all of the parts are in tact and nothing appears out of the ordinary.

If you have an ohm meter you can check what range it is at. Test it both un-assembled and assembled (with mouthpiece in place) to see if there is a difference. I had this issue before and it turns out one of my wires was higher than the ceramic so when I had the mouthpiece installed it would ground out. Easy fix, but hard to diagnose if you dont know what is going on.

 

[thatton]

If you have an ohm meter you can check what range it is at. Test it both un-assembled and assembled (with mouthpiece in place) to see if there is a difference. I had this issue before and it turns out one of my wires was higher than the ceramic so when I had the mouthpiece installed it would ground out. Easy fix, but hard to diagnose if you dont know what is going on.

I don't have an ohm meter but it is reading that before I put the mouthpiece on. It is driving me crazy!

 

[subver]

Are you sure the positive wires aren't touching any of the housing metal? Could also be a very small metal burr from the machining, I've heard of this happening.. I would inspect the pieces very carefully.