Ithaka official

[Monomach]

vasilis will have them sooner Mono. I believe that on Monday or Tuesday he will start shippping

Thanks Imeo !! Vassillis has sent me email too, we will sort what is best due to me having to be away. I am sure it will all be ok.

Does anyone in UK have experience of time it takes for the shipping option to arrive ?

 

[Alireza355]

Here is a picture. Making this cut bigger by 2 milimeters, will make air flow smoother and more efficient even when there is a drop of liquid on the positive connector of your PV device.

 

[blackwater]

Here is a picture. Making this cut bigger by 2 milimeters, will make air flow smoother and more efficient even when there is a drop of liquid on the positive connector of your PV device.

View attachment 224869

What method did you use to cut this to 2mm?

 

[Alireza355]

I used a small file. You can use a hacksaw as well. you just have to make it 2 milimeters deeper (+1 mm original=3 mm final depth)

 

[Cloud Wizard]

Here is a picture. Making this cut bigger by 2 milimeters, will make air flow smoother and more efficient even when there is a drop of liquid on the positive connector of your PV device.

View attachment 224869

Easy fix, but is this intended to increase airflow for a too tight draw or stop a leaking issue? I might just be lucky but I don't get any leakage through the positive post (although I do get some internal gurgling which doesn't bother me).

 

[imeothanasis]

James, Greek seller will have windows on Tuesday and Bruce will have them in a week so you soon will have what you need buddy

Imeo, the clear window in my Ithaka is unusable and i dont have a steel window to replace it with. I just purchased it through the classifieds, so I missed out on the pre-orders. i would very much like to have an "Original" Ithaka, with the engraved ring and poly window so that I can display it properly.

So, I am looking for either a clear Ithaka window, or the window from the Oddyseus "upgrade" that had the male threading on both ends.

As far as solutions to get it working, thank you all for everything, they are great solutions. My Ithaka is working in its current configuration.

Thanks again,

James

 

[imeothanasis]

sorry Ali, but where does this help? Maybe I missed a previous post of yours?

Here is a picture. Making this cut bigger by 2 milimeters, will make air flow smoother and more efficient even when there is a drop of liquid on the positive connector of your PV device.

View attachment 224869

 

[imeothanasis]

its 1,5 mm deep so you made it 1,5 mm deeper Ali? I read the missing post of yours. So that way you have no gurgling even with the original center post top nut?

I used a small file. You can use a hacksaw as well. you just have to make it 2 milimeters deeper (+1 mm original=3 mm final depth)

 

[imeothanasis]

You are not lucky cloud, you just use it proper. I am sure that if you feel even a small gurgling, you close liquid control and then you open it again but a little

Easy fix, but is this intended to increase airflow for a too tight draw or stop a leaking issue? I might just be lucky but I don't get any leakage through the positive post (although I do get some internal gurgling which doesn't bother me).

 

[Lentulusbatiatus]

I will ship them tomorrow due a small issue with ceramics Mev

No problem... really looking forward to trying out the Ithaka now.

 

[Alireza355]

sorry Ali, but where does this help? Maybe I missed a previous post of yours?

when you get a drop of liquid inside the central air hole, the liquid comes down and ends up on the positive pole of your device, in my case, a provari. this liquid has nowhere to go and stays there and disrupts the airflow and makes a noise. if you deepen that cut by about 2 mm, the air passes easily without being held by that drop of liquid. try this imeo, it makes a huge difference, trust me. it doesn't make an airy draw, it just fixes that issue with gurgling.

of course when you shorten the top nut inside the ceramic, you get much less liquid in the central air hole, but with this fix, you get rid of the little gurgling that does sometimes happen even with the shortened top nut. this is the shot in the head of a dead guy, just to make sure he is 10000000% dead!...

you need to do both... shortening the top nut AND deepening the cut on this piece...

 

[imeothanasis]

I will try it, thanks a lot ali

 

[Icig]

Anyone have any problems with grants vanilla custard in the clear windows?


Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Lex0r]

Anyone have any problems with grants vanilla custard in the clear windows?

Nope it's all good! (using GVC in Ithaka I mean)

 

[Icig]

Nope it's all good! (using GVC in Ithaka I mean)

Thanks much! Trying to trade my Kayfun for 120mil GVC and 120 mil pluid so I can restock for when my ithika gets home to me


Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Darkreign]

As far as I know, Oddy tanks and Ithaka tanks are threaded the same, so that should work just fine. Someone will correct me if I am wrong. For the metal parts, try cleaning them with isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush (with o-rings removed) and then rinse with water.

Thanks Lex0r, I got my new o-rings in yesterday from McMaster-Carr (had to order 100 of each so I have spares for life!!!) so I replaced all the rubber and gave a good Everclear bath to everything else and all the offensive odors are gone. YAY!!!

I also did some experimenting with a single coil, "split" wick that is showing promise.



2.3ohm with 3.5mm wick

 

[JthaBigVapor]

I have two flat ribbon wires in mine... Im using, I guess an X-style wicking method (\ or / = wick direction in ceramic)

1 long piece of wick with one coil, across the channel: ( \ ) then a feeing wick, no coil across the opposite way: ( / ) then the second coil on top the feeding wick, I trim this one down to nubs so it sits on top with no extra wick hanging: ( / ) Then I feed the other longer wicks down the side channels for juice feeding and seal that baby up!

No pics as I just rebuilt the other day

How does that split wick work? Is it just one piece?

 

[Darkreign]

Yeah, I wrapped the 2.3 Ohm coil around a 3.5mm wick then unwound the ends up to the coil and re-wound them into separate "mini-wicks". Then I basically have 4 wicks roughly 2mm, one in each channel.

This is my second one like this and I have to say I like it alot.

 

[RiverNut]

I have two flat ribbon wires in mine... Im using, I guess an X-style wicking method (\ or / = wick direction in ceramic)

1 long piece of wick with one coil, across the channel: ( \ ) then a feeing wick, no coil across the opposite way: ( / ) then the second coil on top the feeding wick, I trim this one down to nubs so it sits on top with no extra wick hanging: ( / ) Then I feed the other longer wicks down the side channels for juice feeding and seal that baby up!

No pics as I just rebuilt the other day

How does that split wick work? Is it just one piece?

How are you liking the flat wire Justin? I haven't tried it yet.

 

[gtbb]

I started using Kanthal A1 .5x.1mm ribbon wire on monday. Joining with the Tsaf for single coil set up. I really like this wire. Too early to say the best yet but leaning that way.