Hmmmm, I think I dated her back in the day
If it was the 70's, I don't believe either of you would remember it
◙ Li’l PINCH (←thang) ◙ pdib (←maker) ◙ not sayin’ (←just sayin’) ◙ shuh-ZAM! (←hyperbole)
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If it was the 70's, I don't believe either of you would remember it
Pfft...try phonographs were a recent invention of the day!If it was the 70's, I don't believe either of you would remember it
Finally made it through all 27 pages of this new thread. The last one was just impossible for me to keep up with. I'm really liking the new El Pinchos! I still have a good while to wait, but that's definitely what I'm going for. I'm [HASHTAG]#296[/HASHTAG]. How long do you think that will take from now? I've got other things in the works too, so I have to make sure I'm prepared for it when the time comes.
ohhhhhhhh. . . hmmmmmmmm . . . . IDK, 6 months?
seems like a good place to ask. and yes&no. Bottom insulator or top? Bottom insulators, I have a few left. Top, all gone.
Tricks, hacks, for the top insulator? yep. Pretty? nope. Very effective and simple? yep.
Take one of these: AGA Series Positive Post Insulators - 10 pack - Kidney Puncher
cut the shaft/sleeve/bushing section to 1/2 the existing length.
shove it in there (take out the other first).
Bob = Uncle.
(the reason we're cutting half the bushing section away is so that it will seat low enough to clear the juicefeed holes.)
Tricks, hacks, for the top insulator? yep. Pretty? nope. Very effective and simple? yep.
Take one of these: AGA Series Positive Post Insulators - 10 pack - Kidney Puncher
cut the shaft/sleeve/bushing section to 1/2 the existing length.
shove it in there (take out the other first).
Bob = Uncle.
(the reason we're cutting half the bushing section away is so that it will seat low enough to clear the juicefeed holes.)
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I always wanted to know why Bob was my Uncle....... I could have sworn Bob was not related to me in any way, but everyone is always telling me he is..... also HI Peeps!
BTW: Could you grant me permission to post in your threads?seems like a good place to ask. and yes&no. Bottom insulator or top? Bottom insulators, I have a few left. Top, all gone.
Tricks, hacks? yep. Pretty? nope. Very effective and simple? yep.
Take one of these: AGA Series Positive Post Insulators - 10 pack - Kidney Puncher
cut the shaft/sleeve/bushing section to 1/2 the existing length.
shove it in there (take out the other first).
Bob = Uncle.
(the reason we're cutting half the bushing section away is so that it will seat low enough to clear the juicefeed holes.)
It is a Registered Supplier TOS requirement.
Reciprocity is of course granted.
It's the one you see in the top of the base. Coil got too close and burned the lip of it.
but. . . . but . . . . but . . . . I hardly know you!
and . . . and . . . and . . . .
. . . sheesh . . . I just don't know 
well . . . . OK
. . . . I guesssssssss 
sounds cosmetic.
however, there's the suggestion above.
whoa! 
There it is!! The elusive .17Ω vape I been looking for.
So, all it took was getting 23g Kanthal, and then resorting to a 5/64" Allen Key (2.1mm dia. on the corners . . . . I wasn't going to be heading up to Hardwick's anytime soon).
The 2mm ID worked fine with the 23g wire; but it was cusping. Meaning, once my wicks got run for a little while, and if my juice bottle wasn't mostly full, I'd have to be mindful of a vape, lest it run a'swee-bit dry towards the end of a toot. Not vaping this↑ one yet; but I think the extra tenth of a mm in ID will just do the trick.
I must say that: while I was setting this up, I put my other atty on the mod. That one is a .21Ω, 24g, 2mm ID version of this same setup (5.75 wraps). The .21Ω is on the other side of my own personal battery barrier (20A batteries acceptable to me). Point being, I wouldn't go and by the 30A HB6es just for the difference between the two vapes. There's not that much difference there. Glad I got the HB6es tho, because I don't like barriers. Don't have to cross them; just good to know I can when I feel like.
There it is!! The elusive .17Ω vape I been looking for.
So, all it took was getting 23g Kanthal, and then resorting to a 5/64" Allen Key (2.1mm dia. on the corners . . . . I wasn't going to be heading up to Hardwick's anytime soon).
The 2mm ID worked fine with the 23g wire; but it was cusping. Meaning, once my wicks got run for a little while, and if my juice bottle wasn't mostly full, I'd have to be mindful of a vape, lest it run a'swee-bit dry towards the end of a toot. Not vaping this↑ one yet; but I think the extra tenth of a mm in ID will just do the trick.
I must say that: while I was setting this up, I put my other atty on the mod. That one is a .21Ω, 24g, 2mm ID version of this same setup (5.75 wraps). The .21Ω is on the other side of my own personal battery barrier (20A batteries acceptable to me). Point being, I wouldn't go and by the 30A HB6es just for the difference between the two vapes. There's not that much difference there. Glad I got the HB6es tho, because I don't like barriers. Don't have to cross them; just good to know I can when I feel like.
Very nice!! What's the height on that DT? Looks about 11-12mm?
Heard a few folks are looking for some rosewood burl? Here is a beautiful piece I was just drooling over on ebay.
Black Honduran Rosewood Eye Burled Mod Block 4 520 x 2 270 x 1 235 In | eBay
Black Honduran Rosewood Eye Burled Mod Block 4 520 x 2 270 x 1 235 In | eBay
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