◙ Li’l PINCH (←thang) ◙ pdib (←maker) ◙ not sayin’ (←just sayin’) ◙ shuh-ZAM! (←hyperbole)

[damselle]

I love the different shades of the warm earthy colors ...nature is awesome, and you bring it out Peter.

So, just esthestically asking, would you not have the same results from consistently oiling the wood? In fact, wouldn't the nature of the wood be darkened and enhanced?

 

[pdib]

darkened, yes probably/usually. But no, unless a piece of wood is soaking in oil (like a layer of wet oil on the surface), you won't see the same results. You need to have something built over the surface and smooth (like laying a pane of glass on something). There are oil based products ("oil finish") that build; but not just oiling it.

 

[Slots]

darkened, yes probably/usually. But no, unless a piece of wood is soaking in oil (like a layer of wet oil on the surface), you won't see the same results. You need to have something built over the surface and smooth (like laying a pane of glass on something). There are oil based products ("oil finish") that build; but not just oiling it.

I didn't know you could use oil as a finish on stabilized wood. I didn't think it would soak it up.
I thought the stabilizing made them almost waterproof
Learn something everyday ....(forget it the next)

 

[pdib]

"stabilizing" is a general term. Depending on how porous the wood is, what the stabilizing agent is, what method is used by the person flingin' the term around, it can take some oil. There are certainly examples that won't take any oil. I do natural wood mods too tho.

 

[CaptSteve]

If a piece is stabilized correctly it should end up with no pores but the problem is that few do the process correctly mainly to save time/money.

The piece being stabilized is submerged in stabilizing liquid resin in a vacuum chamber and with a vacuum pump the air is pumped out. On average (depending on the species of wood) a piece of about the size used for a Pinch would take 3-5 hours in the vacuum chamber to have all the air pulled out. At this stage (when the air is removed) it's where some people take a shortcut and end up with an inferior stabilized piece by removing the piece from the liquid and baking it in an oven too early.
To do it correctly once the air is all removed and the piece no longer releases bubbles it should be left in the liquid in full vacuum for at least another 2-3 hours. What this important step does is that it allows time for the wood to displace all the air which was removed with liquid. Once the bubbles stop if the pump is shut down and full vacuum is maintained the wood will within a couple hours suck up a huge amount of liquid resin.
Since the liquid resin is heat activated the piece is then placed in tin foil in and put in an oven for another 3-4 hours at about 250-280 degrees for the resin to set.

The main reason some pieces aren't stabilized correctly is that they weren't given the chance, enough time to suck up enough liquid resin. Hence on the outside they look fine but once you cut in deep in the wood it's still porous. Stabilizing liquid is reusable so to save money many of those guys stabilizing don't let the wood suck up all the liquid it needs to save liquid.

Sadly the only way for you to know if the piece is stabilized correctly is to cut into it.

 

[Slots]

Since the liquid resin is heat activated the piece is then placed in tin foil in and put in an oven for another 3-4 hours at about 250-280 degrees for the resin to set.
Sadly the only way for you to know if the piece is stabilized correctly is to cut into it.

AwwHaa
I think you just verified a thought I've had running around in my head.
I have a block I bought, and when I got it, it stunk.
It smelled so bad I put it out in the garage.
I contacted the seller, and he admitted, (and apologized ) that he had probably not "warmed" it long enough, and that it just needed to dry.
It sat for several months., and it still has a faint odor.
I'll bet that block is one of those "rush jobs" ... and no good
Thanks for the explanation

 

[Clark F]

Beautiful mods, congrats to everyone in this run!

 

[Clark F]

Oh look, two years smoke free!

 

[B2L]

Oh look, two years smoke free!

Congrats on a big milestone

 

[CaptSteve]

Oh look, two years smoke free!

Congrats Clark, awesome achievement

 

[CaptSteve]

AwwHaa
I think you just verified a thought I've had running around in my head.
I have a block I bought, and when I got it, it stunk.
It smelled so bad I put it out in the garage.
I contacted the seller, and he admitted, (and apologized ) that he had probably not "warmed" it long enough, and that it just needed to dry.
It sat for several months., and it still has a faint odor.
I'll bet that block is one of those "rush jobs" ... and no good
Thanks for the explanation

Probably the case Slots but it's certainly got to do also with the type of stabilizing liquid he uses. The one I use doesn't stink and I know that there are lots of inferior stabilizing resins out there.
What he told you however is a load of doodoo. The resin is heat activated so it doesn't "dry" as he told you, it needs to be heat treated as I described. If you've had it several months in your garage I wouldn't bother with it however. Still if the smell is gone you can always check what it's like.

 

[Gigdujour]

Oh look, two years smoke free!

Congratulations sir!

 

[Clark F]

Thanks everyone!

 

[TamiPac]

Oh look, two years smoke free!

Congrats and Happy Vaperversary!

 

[pdib]

Congratulations, Clark!

 

[turbocad6]

I believe not all stabilizing is heat cured. I think there are 2 types, heat cured and reactive cured, like an epoxy resin. I'm no expert but as far as I know heat cured is more for the home hobbyist type because it allows you to keep the wood under vacuum for a really long time to get full penetration because it doesn't start to cure until heated, where something like an epoxy type resin could start curing before you get this full penetration with just a vacuum pot, which is why an epoxy based stabilizing is better when done under extreme pressure, which is much harder for a hobbyist or smaller operation to do.

one really popular heat cured stabilizing product for home use is called cactus juice. again I'm no expert but I believe that a heat cured stabilizing is not as good as a true epoxy type resin infused under high pressure. one of the really high end professional stabilizers is K&G, they use 2 types of resins, a thinner and a thicker viscosity, depending on the density of the material being impregnated and they pressurize up to 4,000 psi. they also do color dying and you can send them your own wood for processing, they charge by the pound based on the finished products weight and even doing a single piece is no problem. search knife and gun finishing supply...

 

[Alexander Mundy]

Good job Clark, keep it going.

 

[Alexander Mundy]

they pressurize up to 4,000 psi

Wow, no wonder it isn't for us mortals to do. That pressure vessel must be huge.

 

[CaptSteve]

I believe not all stabilizing is heat cured. I think there are 2 types, heat cured and reactive cured, like an epoxy resin. I'm no expert but as far as I know heat cured is more for the home hobbyist type because it allows you to keep the wood under vacuum for a really long time to get full penetration because it doesn't start to cure until heated, where something like an epoxy type resin could start curing before you get this full penetration with just a vacuum pot, which is why an epoxy based stabilizing is better when done under extreme pressure, which is much harder for a hobbyist or smaller operation to do.

one really popular heat cured stabilizing product for home use is called cactus juice. again I'm no expert but I believe that a heat cured stabilizing is not as good as a true epoxy type resin infused under high pressure. one of the really high end professional stabilizers is K&G, they use 2 types of resins, a thinner and a thicker viscosity, depending on the density of the material being impregnated and they pressurize up to 4,000 psi. they also do color dying and you can send them your own wood for processing, they charge by the pound based on the finished products weight and even doing a single piece is no problem. search knife and gun finishing supply...

Absolutely true Turbo, however very few companies with the equipment for this process cater for the individual as K&G does. I believe Foggy does all his stabilizing with K&G

 

[penguiness]

I can see a between vacuum stabilizing and pressure stabilizing on the same wood when cutting. I had a large block of redwood that I cut in 2 halves. I sent one half to someone to stabilize and then later wanted the second half done for another project. The vacuum one was difficult to cut clean. The pressure treated block was a joy to work with and shaped beautifully.