Was wondering in any other size batt besides a 18490 will fit/work in a standard size provari with the stock cap? I have some credit from a vendor that seems to carry every size but 18490
Thanks!!!!

Was wondering in any other size batt besides a 18490 will fit/work in a standard size provari with the stock cap? I have some credit from a vendor that seems to carry every size but 18490Thanks!!!!
Was wondering in any other size batt besides a 18490 will fit/work in a standard size provari with the stock cap? I have some credit from a vendor that seems to carry every size but 18490Thanks!!!!
Thats what I found...will get some 18500s. Im rarely above 3.3 with my rebuildables...thanks!!!
And this is where I get confused. My attys are measuring 1.1 Ohms so im vaping at 3.3V. This is what I am planning on getting when they are back in stock:
IMR 18500, LiMn 1100mAh Battery
The one review is saying it works, thoughts?
I think you will find that Amps is Equal to Volts Divided by Ohms.
So Amps = 3.3/1.1 => 3 Amps. That is Actually a Lot of Amps to draw from Many Batteries.
To know if a Battery can Handle 3 Amp draw you have to know what the "C" Rating is for a given Battery. Here's a Link that tells you how to do just that.
How To Find Your Lipo-Battery’s Maximum Constant Amp Draw
Unfortunately, the batteries you listed don't have a C Rating so there is no way to tell if they can Handle 3 Amps or Not.
At work but will dive into this tonight......and im sure will have questions![]()
Thanks!!! Im also in the coop for a couple of the variable volt/watt mods and honestly have no idea what/why/how to do anything with a watt setting. Is it so I can just adjust directly to that "sweet spot" directly? I guess its time to get all this down![]()
When you go to buy a Light Bulb, the Higher the Watts, the Brighter the Bulb, Right. And a Brighter Bulb means its running Hotter.
This is Basicaly what is going on with a Carto or Atty.
Watts are calculated by taking the Voltage (Volts) Squared and then Dividing it by the Resistance (Ohms).
Watts = (Volts x Volts) / Ohms
If the Volts remain the same, the only way to make the Watts go Up or Down is to Change the Ohms.
Since the Ohms are on the Bottom of the Fraction, (Volts x Volts) / Ohms, making the Ohms Smaller makes the Watts Bigger. And when the Ohms are made Larger, they go into the top of the , (Volts x Volts) / Ohms, less times, Hence the Watts are Less.
So just remember that if you Lower the Ohms of what you are using right now, say from 2.8 ohms to 2.4 ohms, the result will be the Carto/Atty Runs Hotter. Raise the Ohms and the Carto/Atty runs Cooler. A Carto or Atty that runs Hotter will make More Vapor. And it will make More Flavor to a Point. But if it runs Too Hot, then you e-Liquids start to taste Burnt.
Most people Experiment by buying Cartos/Attys of Lower and Lower Ohms until they Reach the Point where there e-Liquids taste Burnt. There is no Rule that fits Everyone as to what Ohms are Right. It's all based on what the Individual Likes and what their e-Liquids can Handle.
Ok finally had some time. So using the formula(thanks for that, I fly RC helis and am sure that page will be used again), The mad vapes batt is 10C so thats 11 Amps Max Constant. So technically the batt can handle 3 amps.
Im getting the math. What I don't fully get is having a mod that is variable watts and volts. Help me here. If I have a VV mod, I can control the watts/vapor. So what would the point be for having these new mods that can directly control watts?