18650 Extra battery Storage

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Myrany

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Unless somebody wants to go over the maximum recommended discharge rate, I don't see why protected 3400mAh li-ion's aren't recommended for use in ecigs.

3400mAh AW batts can safely pump out up to 6.8 amps. So unless the amperage exceeds 6.8A, protected 3400's are perfectly fine for a ecig mod (as long as it's a decent battery from a reputable manufacturer, which can be said for any li-ion type of battery).

Now for those who are going sub-ohm, over 5 volts and want some massive wattage, then protected 3400's can't safely produce that kind of amperage. But come on, who in their right mind is regularly vaping @25+ watts? Most people likely keep wattage under 10, and amperage well below 6.8A.

You know what going over 6.8 Amps can happen quite accidentally. I had an A7 that I had setup with a 1.75 ohm coil that had been vaping beautifully for hours suddenly short out in such a way that it sent the amps WAY over 10 AMPs and collapsed the heat spring in my REO.

I did nothing to the atty or coil. THe Atty itself failed suddenly are dropped me into scary sub ohm territory (it wasn't even reading the coil on it anymore).

That taught me a lesson. I will never use a battery in my reo with a RDA that can't take at least 10 amps and preferably more. Frankly this experience scared the bejeebus out of me.
 

ITPython

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You know what going over 6.8 Amps can happen quite accidentally. I had an A7 that I had setup with a 1.75 ohm coil that had been vaping beautifully for hours suddenly short out in such a way that it sent the amps WAY over 10 AMPs and collapsed the heat spring in my REO.

I did nothing to the atty or coil. THe Atty itself failed suddenly are dropped me into scary sub ohm territory (it wasn't even reading the coil on it anymore).

That taught me a lesson. I will never use a battery in my reo with a RDA that can't take at least 10 amps and preferably more. Frankly this experience scared the bejeebus out of me.

True, shorts do happen. With a protected battery, like an AW 3400mAh, short-circuit protection is there, along with over-discharge protection. So if a short happens, the protection circuit kicks in and you are safe. With a battery that has no short protection, it releases a HUGE amount of energy.

However a protected battery with a faulty protection circuit that doesn't protect against shorts or over-discharging, may be a big problem. Which is why purchasing decent protected batteries is pretty important. But either way, I would rather have a protected battery that can stop shorts or over-discharging rather than a non-protected battery which if exposed to a short, will 100% short out and release an insane amount of energy.

Basically:

- Non-protected batteries will short out 100% of the time if they are exposed to a short.
- Protected batteries will only short out of protection circuit is faulty or doesn't have short-circuit protection.
 

vicflo

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True, shorts do happen. With a protected battery, like an AW 3400mAh, short-circuit protection is there, along with over-discharge protection. So if a short happens, the protection circuit kicks in and you are safe. With a battery that has no short protection, it releases a HUGE amount of energy.

However a protected battery with a faulty protection circuit that doesn't protect against shorts or over-discharging, may be a big problem. Which is why purchasing decent protected batteries is pretty important. But either way, I would rather have a protected battery that can stop shorts or over-discharging rather than a non-protected battery which if exposed to a short, will 100% short out and release an insane amount of energy.

Basically:

- Non-protected batteries will short out 100% of the time if they are exposed to a short.
- Protected batteries will only short out of protection circuit is faulty or doesn't have short-circuit protection.


as in if the positive pin on a regulated vv/vw mod happens to somehow get a foreign object in it or you drop it and the pin makes contact with the tube at all, the "safety" features of the circuit will be completely useless as the current is not even flowing through the circuitry.

back to car audio, which ive also dabbled in, its the same concept when putting a higher amperage fuse at the battery thats rated higher than the onboard fuse of the amp. its to protect the battery from blowing up as opposed to the fuse on the amp or the amp itself from tripping.
 

Ryedan

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True, shorts do happen. With a protected battery, like an AW 3400mAh, short-circuit protection is there, along with over-discharge protection. So if a short happens, the protection circuit kicks in and you are safe. With a battery that has no short protection, it releases a HUGE amount of energy.

However a protected battery with a faulty protection circuit that doesn't protect against shorts or over-discharging, may be a big problem. Which is why purchasing decent protected batteries is pretty important. But either way, I would rather have a protected battery that can stop shorts or over-discharging rather than a non-protected battery which if exposed to a short, will 100% short out and release an insane amount of energy.

Basically:

- Non-protected batteries will short out 100% of the time if they are exposed to a short.
- Protected batteries will only short out of protection circuit is faulty or doesn't have short-circuit protection.

It is generally accepted when looking at the whole picture that unprotected safer chemistry batteries are safer than protected ICRs. In addition to what you've listed above, there are two more differences between them. The safer chemistry battery will not vent with flame like ICRs do. I know IMRs behave this way but I'm not sure about the other safer chemistries. The second is that safer chemistry batteries need to get significantly hotter before they start venting compared to ICRs.

For mechanical mods I use IMR only. I would much rather have a IMR vent in my K100 than have a ICR vent with more energy with increased likelihood of turning my mod into a pipe bomb. Just my :2c:
 

Baditude

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True, shorts do happen. With a protected battery, like an AW 3400mAh, short-circuit protection is there, along with over-discharge protection. So if a short happens, the protection circuit kicks in and you are safe. With a battery that has no short protection, it releases a HUGE amount of energy.

However a protected battery with a faulty protection circuit that doesn't protect against shorts or over-discharging, may be a big problem. Which is why purchasing decent protected batteries is pretty important. But either way, I would rather have a protected battery that can stop shorts or over-discharging rather than a non-protected battery which if exposed to a short, will 100% short out and release an insane amount of energy.

Basically:

- Non-protected batteries will short out 100% of the time if they are exposed to a short.
- Protected batteries will only short out of protection circuit is faulty or doesn't have short-circuit protection.

Ryedan said:
It is generally accepted when looking at the whole picture that unprotected safer chemistry batteries are safer than protected ICRs. In addition to what you've listed above, there are two more differences between them. The safer chemistry battery will not vent with flame like ICRs do. I know IMRs behave this way but I'm not sure about the other safer chemistries. The second is that safer chemistry batteries need to get significantly hotter before they start venting compared to ICRs.

For mechanical mods I use IMR only. I would much rather have a IMR vent in my K100 than have a ICR vent with more energy with increased likelihood of turning my mod into a pipe bomb. Just my :2c:

Ryedan just made the point that I was going to make. Safe chemistry batteries are inherently "safer" (admittedly a relative term when speaking about batteries) than any ICR chemistry battery, protected or not. The only reason that ICR batteries can be used for our application in the first place is because of the protected circuit in the protected batteries. This is because, without the protected circuit, they are considered to have a volatile (as in "flames) chemistry which means when they go into thermal runaway, it is often with flames or explosion.

Case in point, my first mod was a mechanical mod. It had a collapsable hot spring, no vent holes but the fire button was designed to vent gas. I was using a protected ICR battery. Pretty safe, right?

The mod was kept in a pants pocket in my locker at work. The fire button became compressed in the pants pocket and allowed the battery to fire continuously. The battery over-discharged and went into thermal runaway. Luckily I found the mod and the battery going into meltdown mode before a fire started. When I found it, the mod was too hot to touch, was releasing hot gas from the fire button and melting the paint on the mod, the below battery had melted the shrink wrap, ruined the fire switch and the hot spring, and ruined a perfectly fine pair of pants.

The fire switch did as it was designed to do by venting gas, however the protected circuit in the ICR battery and the hot spring had failed to prevent a potential catastrophy. Had I not found the situation when I did, it could have been much worse and caused a fire.

If this had been a regulated mod I would not have had this story to tell. The better protective circuitry in a regulated mod would have more layers of protection: over-discharge protection, auto cutoff of the battery after so many seconds, hot spring protection, and the recommended safe chemistry IMR battery.

Trustfire2.jpg

Too many novices and even long term e-cig users do not have the education or knowledge of li-ion battery chemistry or use safe battery practices. Most believe the higher the mAh rating, the better the battery is. They are often buying the cheapest batteries that they can find. Even many of the e-cig salesmen in vape shops apparently don't know what's safe.

Just this weekend a novice vapor purchased a mechanical mod that uses an 18350 battery. The sales person sold him an RBA with a coil he set up with a 0.4 ohm coil. No 18350 battery has the amp rating to safely use a 0.4 ohm coil. That's a 10.5 amp draw; the continuous discharge rate of an 18350 battery is only 6 amps. If a protected ICR had been used, it would have been an even more critical disparity. http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/general-e-smoking-discussion/487382-help-me-my-battery-yo.html

This was not an isolated incident. This has become a trend. I can recount several such incidents on this forum in the last few months.

Yes, a safe chemistry battery can vent in thermal runaway as an ICR battery will, but it will do so by simply releasing gas but without flames and explosive force like an ICR battery will. This is why protected batteries are no longer recommended for mods, but safe chemistry batteries are. This is why some battery vendors like Orbtronic have the disclaimer, ""Protected Li-ion 18650 batteries are made for high performance flashlights, not for e-cig mods."
 
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Strontium

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Case made of Aluminum looks good, but it is not made for li-ion batteries. If you are planning to place some insulator where the positive will be that might work.

Orbtronic is not recommending protected batteries because of battery dimensions. It applies for any protected battery. 80% of e-cig mods will not work with protected 18650 batteries. That's the reason.
 

00gt1

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Just to solidify what seems to be the general consensus here... aluminum = bad idea without an insulator... it DOES conduct electricity... it was used for a while to wire houses back in the day before copper... I know it looks nice, but stay safe and use plastic. On a second point, x2 to Badtitude's post, waaay wrong
 

Ryedan

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Case made of Aluminum looks good, but it is not made for li-ion batteries. If you are planning to place some insulator where the positive will be that might work.

:facepalm: They show a Li-ion battery going into the case on the site. No additional insulation is needed with this device.

However, they also say the following:

"pill internal size: 20.7mm * 66.0mm. The pill may not fully seal if your 18650 battery is longer than 66mm".

Which means a protected 18650 will likely not let the pill close all the way.

Orbtronic is not recommending protected batteries because of battery dimensions. It applies for any protected battery. 80% of e-cig mods will not work with protected 18650 batteries. That's the reason.

So, you're saying 80% of mods will not work with longer batteries and this is why Orbtronics does not recommend them? I keep re-reading your post and hoping it's not what I actually read :rolleyes:
 

Strontium

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:facepalm: They show a Li-ion battery going into the case on the site. No additional insulation is needed with this device.

However, they also say the following:

"pill internal size: 20.7mm * 66.0mm. The pill may not fully seal if your 18650 battery is longer than 66mm".

Which means a protected 18650 will likely not let the pill close all the way.



So, you're saying 80% of mods will not work with longer batteries and this is why Orbtronics does not recommend them? I keep re-reading your post and hoping it's not what I actually read :rolleyes:

Yes, that's what I said. Email them. Protection will hold up to 12 Amps, so performance is not an issue.Short protection works good (I know that ;).That's not an issue either. It is 68.9mm length, and probably diameter. Also read Amazon reviews. It seems that Orbtronic batteries are top sellers at AMZN. Negative reviews are coming mostly from vapers (dimension problem).
 

Baditude

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Regardless of whether a battery will fit in a mod or not, electric regulated mods that use buck-boost circuitry and PWM (pulse width modulation) to achieve variable voltage perform best when a high drain battery is used. Provape engineers provided the following explanation why:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/provape/334831-technical-why-high-drain-batteries.html

"And we have to keep in mind that this is ONLY the average current. Because the Provari converter is a pulsing device, the pulsed battery current can be a factor of 2 higher than the average current. REALLY, the battery needs to supply pulsed currents of over 9 amps. These engineering calculations show why you need a high quality, LOW INTERNAL RESISTANCE, battery to supply what the Provari converter needs.

"But wait, why do the cheap batteries work at all? They work when the output is not adjusted to supply high power. They get by running at low power but the full capacity of the battery is NEVER available because of the voltage drop due to the higher internal resistance causes them to shut down early. So if you think you are getting 2500 maH out of a battery with that rating you would be wrong.
 
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stillnotsmoking

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Strontium

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Love that battery pill case, especially if I could attach it to my keyring, bazinga!!! Op, when you get it delivered let us know if there is insulators in the ends?

Also LH has that zipper case in stock, Ballistic Nylon Battery Case with Keyring

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk

It is for AA size. I use it for 14500 liions in combination w plastic case
 
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Baditude

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It seems that Provape people have no problem selling "high quality" Protected Trustfire ICRs with their products.
"Compatibility: These will work with the ProVape-1 Electronic Cigarette".

This is their mechanical mod (and not a regulated mod with boost circuitry).
 
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Myk

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The new hybrid batteries, which you appear to be talking about, are safe chemistry and high drain batteries, which is what IMR batteries are. The battery that you recommended is neither.

IMR is safe chemistry. "Hybrid" is not IMR but is safe chemistry. All NCRs are New Nickle Platform, which would put them in the "hybrid" category and not only that but they have multiple safety features that go beyond the "safe chemistry". Funny thing is we've already covered this in another thread.
When you tell people "buy IMR" they go out and buy those letters not NCR, Samsung ICR, INR, the high amp Sony's or CGRs (if they can find them). Then they come back complaining about how little time the batteries last which is why places have been inventing these new batteries over IMR, it doesn't do much good to have a battery that won't explode in your electric car if you can only go 10 miles.

I'm curious why you used the protected version's Orbtronics link before to claim they shouldn't be used in ecigs when Orbtronics carries the unprotected version with no such warning.
And BTW,
"Max. Discharge rate: 2C (6.8A)
Pulse current (5-6 sec.): 12A "
- See more at: Panasonic 18650 3400mah NCR18650B battery cell



I've seen a couple of people say this before about the Panasonic hybrids. I know a bit about NCA chemistry and the heat resistant layer (HRL) technology they are using in the NCR series, but have never seen any data that these are safer than IMR.

If anyone has any, I would love to hear about it :thumb:

There are some YT videos with hard shorts using CGR, IMR and NCR. (see below)
After using CGR and NCR to oxidize wicks and having the CGR's get very hot very fast while the NCRs do not I decided I believe the videos.

Once I found out 99% of what I read about NCR's on forums was wrong and that all NCRs were NNP I don't really care which one I throw into a mech to oxidize wicks. They don't get warm for me unlike the recommended "hybrid" CGR did.

I don't know about puncture tests or anything like that.


You know what going over 6.8 Amps can happen quite accidentally. I had an A7 that I had setup with a 1.75 ohm coil that had been vaping beautifully for hours suddenly short out in such a way that it sent the amps WAY over 10 AMPs and collapsed the heat spring in my REO.

I did nothing to the atty or coil. THe Atty itself failed suddenly are dropped me into scary sub ohm territory (it wasn't even reading the coil on it anymore).

That taught me a lesson. I will never use a battery in my reo with a RDA that can't take at least 10 amps and preferably more. Frankly this experience scared the bejeebus out of me.

Are you talking VV or mech REO?
I had an eGo-C battery short out and the eGo protection curcuit shut it down. I've had coils/wicks in Vamos and eVics short out and drop below 1.2Ω and they shut it down. VV are supposed to have protection, the VV REO has it.

The thing is when you short an NCR the safety features seem to limit the power flow like a protection circuit would.
Callies Kustoms 3100mAh Panasonic 18650 batteries on sale now! - YouTube
Callies Kustoms IMR Battery and AW short circuit observations - YouTube
cgr18650ch.wmv - YouTube
 

Rader2146

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For example, using a 2ohm carto on a SVD at 15watts would give 2.75A so the B is not really being stressed.


Actually, 15 watts would be 4-5 amps average (depending on state of charge) and as many as 10+ amps pulse. That's amusing that the SVD can deliver 15 watts from a single battery, but I dont know if it shares the same flaw as the VAMO and other VW mods that fall flat at 11-12 watts,


Bottom line, a battery with at least a 5C rating should be used in VV/VW mods. It is entirely possible to get better performance and longer run time from a 2000mAh 10C battery than a 3400mAh 2C battery.
 
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