18650 IMR Button Top?

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bombastinator

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Admittedly I am not up to par with battery chemistries, so I have to reference what I feel is a reliable and objective source. And I feel Mooch, who works with batteries and battery companies is a reliable source.

Batterybro is a retailer. Not faulting the business, but retailers are not always a reliable source. Did you not have conflict with a retailer over a battery?
Actually I did once. I bought some batteries labeled “LG2 Browns” that weren’t. To be fair the retailer thought they were buying genuine stuff and were much troubled over it. What they did in the end though was convince themselves I was wrong because they’d bought a bunch of them and it would have cost them a lot to fix it. I just don’t buy batteries there any more, and they check their purchases a lot harder.
 

bombastinator

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Just but some button top 18650s. They're not that difficult to locate, and there are plenty of recs made here already.

Occam's Razor.
Do not but your batteries. It’s not helpful. It’s bad for both you and the batteries. Not as bad as hamsters, but kinda the same problem.
 

Rossum

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A somewhat related, but interesting observation from looking into button top options: Most of the button top batteries being sold are actually flat tops with a terminal attached to the top and secured with a second wrap.
I would be surprised if the buttons aren't spot welded in place.

I can't say for sure though because I've never had anything that uses button tops.
 

RedForeman

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I would be surprised if the buttons aren't spot welded in place.

I can't say for sure though because I've never had anything that uses button tops.
I was thinking soldered like a heat sink on a processor chip. As in assembled before the guts went in and the battery was energized. But that would make entirely too much sense.

I'm not cutting one up to see, but it's probably just as likely held in place only by the wrap and some wishful thinking.
 

DPLongo22

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Do not but your batteries. It’s not helpful. It’s bad for both you and the batteries. Not as bad as hamsters, but kinda the same problem.

LOL! Nice catch. Fat fingers (I). :laugh:

I would be surprised if the buttons aren't spot welded in place.

I can't say for sure though because I've never had anything that uses button tops.

They are, but I put some value in it being done by someone I have faith in more than myself. My vendor has been doing it for quite a long time, and in large numbers.

If you've ever seen my handwriting you'd NOT want to use anything welded, soldered, or even glued by me. :blush:
 

DPLongo22

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I was thinking soldered like a heat sink on a processor chip. As in assembled before the guts went in and the battery was energized. But that would make entirely too much sense.

I'm not cutting one up to see, but it's probably just as likely held in place only by the wrap and some wishful thinking.

They're welded, "Red". The vendors will confirm this if you inquire via email.

By the way (and totally unrelated >

You've got my vote.




RedForeman4POTUS.jpg
 

Baditude

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I am unable to drop a direct link at the moment, but if you click on the link below for my blog, go to my Deeper Understanding of Batteries Part TWO which explains what a protected battery actually does.
Protected vs. Unprotected Batteries

There is a common misnomer in the vaping community that a protected battery is safer to use than an unprotected battery. There is a belief that a protected battery will prevent you from over-drawing your battery and prevent it to explode or vent gas. I'm not certain where this belief started, but it needs clarification. A battery labeled as "protected" does not always prevent you from applying a higher current draw than it is capable of handling.

The term "unprotected" is vague and often misunderstood. It can mean a "safe chemistry IMR or hybrid" that doesn't use a protected circuit, or an "unprotected ICR battery". Unprotected ICR batteries should NEVER be used in a mod; they should only be used in less demanding applications such as flashlights or laptops.

The protection circuits in batteries vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, but primarily prevent you from over-discharging (using the battery past its minimum charge rating) or over-charging the battery. The "protection" moniker is not all-inclusive either. Some will provide just over-discharge protection, others have over-charge protection, and in some batteries over-current protection.

You will have to hunt down the data sheet from the battery manufacturer to find exactly which protections are provided, or hope that your merchant has this listed online. Protected batteries are quite often longer in length than their unprotected counterpart. This is due to the additional circuitry that is embedded in the battery. Confirm measurements before you commit to purchasing.

Now, this said, lithium ion batteries have what's called a PTC or Positive Temperature Coefficient circuit. This is built into the battery just above the positive terminal and is present regardless of any "protected" labels. The PTC is designed to raise the resistance of the battery as the temperature of the battery rises.

The theory behind PTC is that as the resistance goes up, the current draw from the battery goes down - Ohm's Law. This helps prevent most accidents from becoming catastrophic, but it should not be relied on. The PTC is designed to be unobtrusive and you can still over-draw the battery if you aren't paying attention. The PTC circuits can also fail if exposed to static electricity or from a faulty charger. When a PTC fails, it often fails in a position which allows you to continue using the battery without fault. -- Deeper Understanding of Mod Batteries Part 2
 

PoliticallyIncorrect

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Thanks, guys, for your replies, advice and battery savvy. I haven't been in here for a while, but I'm pleasantly reminded why I used to: If for no other reason, you can use a name like 'Provari' and see it recognized (unlike, say, the kids working in B&M vape shops who have no idea what you're talking about) :thumbs:
 
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