1st Mech Mod

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Edwin Betz

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Finally got my Mech mod today, the first one I've ever owned. I was going to order a different one, but couldn't afford it and this was already ordered. So I am stuck with a Hybrid Mechanical mod as my first. It is an Ijoy RDTA mod and uses a single 18650 battery. One positive I see by looking at it is it has 4 air holes in the top for venting.

Anyway, I am using a Samsung 25R (20A) battery, and my build is showing as
.09 ohms. I tried plugging in the numbers to the ohms law calculator I found

Ohms Law Calculator

And got confused. It says to plug in 2 of the values and calculate. So the resistance I know would be .09 ohms. Would the voltage be 3.7v from the Samsung 25R battery?
20180530_165815.jpg


A little enlightenment here please!
 
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APathos

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Volts are whatever your battery is putting out, so 4.2 for a fresh battery on the first hit only. You can take into account sag ~ -0.35V if you want. I'll use 3.6V; what I feel the battery will be at most of the time. I'll also just use steam engine - since it has build tools all in one place. 0.09Ohms at 3.5V is 39Amps at 136Watts. So for a 20A battery that would be a no (for a 30A battery, still a no).
 

Edwin Betz

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Thank you. I trashed the .09 (actually put them in box for single coil builds on reg mod). Found Steam calculator online. Now using .18 ohms build. I come up with 20A. Is that too close being that the 25R is 20A?
Volts are whatever your battery is putting out, so 4.2 for a fresh battery on the first hit only. You can take into account sag ~ -0.35V if you want. I'll use 3.6V; what I feel the battery will be at most of the time. I'll also just use steam engine - since it has build tools all in one place. 0.09Ohms at 3.5V is 39Amps at 136Watts. So for a 20A battery that would be a no (for a 30A battery, still a no).
3f28d40c68b26d8d680d40964d11aec3.jpg


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Edwin Betz

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How about a Efest 35A 3.7V? I came out with 20A 72w.
Yeah, you should leave some head room; when calculating at 4.2 - 23.33A. To clarify, I'll use 3.6 for what i feel the Wattage will be at most of the time, not for Amp safety. You could also use a true 30A - LG HB4 or HB6.

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Edwin Betz

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Yeah, you should leave some head room; when calculating at 4.2 - 23.33A. To clarify, I'll use 3.6 for what i feel the Wattage will be at most of the time, not for Amp safety. You could also use a true 30A - LG HB4 or HB6.
This is the only LG I have and I don't know the ratings.
20180530_193705.jpeg


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B2L

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How about a Efest 35A 3.7V? I came out with 20A 72w.

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Efest is notorious for over rating their rewraps, most likely it is (if they’re still using the same cell) a 20 amp battery.

Efest 35A 2800mAh 18650 Bench Test Results...a 20A/2300mAh battery

This is the only LG I have and I don't know the ratings. View attachment 745571

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The HG2 is also a 20 amp battery.
 

Zaryk

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This is the only LG I have and I don't know the ratings. View attachment 745571

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That's a LG HG2, I think its a 20a battery, if memory serves me correctly. I would double check that on mooch's charts though.
 

Topwater Elvis

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When calculating battery amp draw using a mechanical always use the full charged voltage 4.2v, this gives a very slight safety margin.
Then use a resistance that creates an amp drain that is under the cell CDR until you gain experience.

Always refer to mooch's battery blogs for accurate data on cells ---> Mooch's blog | E-Cigarette Forum
If you don't know what the cells you have are capable of and if they are authentic name brand cells, probably best to set it aside until you do.

I’ve used mechanicals on & off for years, I wouldn’t go under .235Ω on any 20a CDR cell.
Everyone has to set their own personal safety comfort zone, it is unwise to push any cell to its CDR until you understand what you're doing & why, every time.

The only safety feature a mechanical has is the one between the users ears.
 
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APathos

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Do you want that 0.18A build to run at 72Watts? When building for a specific atty / mech combo, I generally find a specific build and internal diameter only has one setting that works (for me). i.e. On a hadaly/SQ, ss 316l 26/26/36 gauge with a 3.5mm internal diameter fused clapton only works for me with 6 wraps at 0.27 Ohms. At 3.6V, outputs ~48W.

If I add a wrap to 0.32Ohms, I've added metal mass/surface area, and the lower Wattage does not run that to my satisfaction.
If I subtract a wrap to 0.23Ohms, I've subtracted metal mass/surface area, and the higher Wattage is too much.

It's the mech/build dance you have to go through (well, I do anyway).
 

Topwater Elvis

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I buy cells here ---Batteries and Chargers they are also on mooch's 'good vendors' list.

But before you get into a rush to order best to spend some time reading mooch's blogs so you get familiar with battery basics which will give you more understanding and help you select appropriate cells for your intended use.
 

Edwin Betz

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So I went ahead and ordered some
LG HE4 batteries. They came in the mail this morning. I went ahead and purchased them from Amazon, which to me is a reliable/trusted vendor. I charged them and tried my Mech out for the first time. I haven't set it down for more than 10-20 minutes since. I love the way it feels and hits. It took a few times to get used to the fire button being on the bottom, but even that feels normal now.

The one thing I have noticed is the longer I use it on the same battery, the longer it takes for the coils to fire. And now they aren't getting as hot as I like them, so I guess it's time to replace the battery. All in all, I am very satisfied with the mech. I have another set of LG HE4 batteries on order. I am keeping my batteries separated and only using the HE4s for the mech. The rest I am using for my regulated mods only


Screenshot_20180602-195642.png
 
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Topwater Elvis

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Edwin Betz

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In reality amazon isn't a reliable source for authentic cells, and they are falsely advertising the the 'amp rate'.

Those cells are 20a CDR, they are not 35a.
---> LG HE4 20A 2500mAh 18650 Bench Retest Results...a good 20A battery but 25R5 is better

The usual price for those cells is around $4.50 - $5.50 each from reputable vendors.
Damn. Shouldn't there be a laws against this type of sh**? False advertising? Especially when it has to do with something that has the potential to cause serious harm to someone! Not only vapers either overloading a battery in other applications can be just as dangerous.

I am still trying to figure out how to navigate Mooch's blog. I am putting my Mech up once again to be safe. I've been dealing with Amazon for years and never thought they would falsely advertise something, especially something listed as "Amazon's Choice".
 
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Zaryk

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Damn. Shouldn't there be a laws against this type of sh**? False advertising? Especially when it has to do with something that has the potential to cause serious harm to someone! Not only vapers either overloading a battery in other applications can be just as dangerous.

I am still trying to figure out how to navigate Mooch's blog. I am putting my Mech up once again to be safe. I've been dealing with Amazon for years and never thought they would falsely advertise something, especially something listed as "Amazon's Choice".

Amazon is a business. They take the info given to them and move on. They are not interested in making sure the ratings on these batteries are accurate, they have too many items spread across any number of categories to invest the time into making sure every description is 100% accurate. The only places I seen so far that make fairly accurate claims on battery ratings are the businesses that specialize in battery sales. Even then, I only trust mooch as he actually supplies data to back up his findings.

If you want to find info on a specific battery, just google the battery in question, and put mooch at the end. It will bring up what you need if he has tested it.
 

Topwater Elvis

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Amazon & other like sites are full of knockoff / counterfeit goods of all varieties & have been since their beginning.
No different than all the 'bargain' type vaping sites. If you find something vape related for one third to half or even less the normal price of reputable vendor/dealers, there is a reason & a good indicator of where not to buy from.

Here is a link to mooch's blogs ---> Mooch's blog | E-Cigarette Forum

What is it your having trouble with / finding difficult to navigate?

I would never recommend buying cells anywhere that isn't on his list of good vendors, be sure they are in the US before ordering.
I buy my cells at RTD vapor.

You might find this helpful ---> (8) A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod | E-Cigarette Forum
 
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Edwin Betz

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Amazon & other like sites are full of knockoff / counterfeit goods of all varieties & have been since their beginning.
No different than all the 'bargain' type vaping sites. If you find something vape related for one third to half or even less the normal price of reputable vendor/dealers, there is a reason & a good indicator of where not to buy from.

Here is a link to mooch's blogs ---> Mooch's blog | E-Cigarette Forum

What is it your having trouble with / finding difficult to navigate?

I would never recommend buying cells anywhere that isn't on his list of good vendors, be sure they are in the US before ordering.
I buy my cells at RTD vapor.

You might find this helpful ---> (8) A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod | E-Cigarette Forum
Zaryk in the post before yours gave me an easy way to get to Mooch's specs on a battery using Google search with Mooch's name.

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gpjoe

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Zaryk in the post before yours gave me an easy way to get to Mooch's specs on a battery using Google search with Mooch's name.

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I believe he's questioning why you would buy from Amazon after all of the advice to only buy batteries from a a reputable vendor (recommended by Mooch).

BTW - what is your recipe for orange creamsicle? :)
 
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