Yeah, button consistency is important. I have a V3 from Puresmoker have a hit & miss relation with the switch. They have been plagued with button problems for a long time & the V3 was supposed to be a redesign to solve that problem. Will look at provape (& see if batts are the protected version of the 14500).
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That's what I thought too.. you are the first I have heard to have trouble with V3. I THOUGHT THAT HAD ALL BEEN SOLVED? Is it a spring issuethat's keeping it from making connection?
My favorite mods in my collection are the GGTS and GG Slim (100% mechanical), at 3.7v the draw and hit is harder than a regular 3.7v battery, but i don't like taking them out often as i don't want anything to happen to them, they were very expensive.
I don't like the Puresmoker mods, there is always problems with them.
And for everyone saying blah blah protected batteries... Unprotected batteries don't have short protection, but they are safer, if they decide to blow up they will just get very hot and vent gas, if the protection on a protected battery decides to fail, its gonna burst into flames. For my bigger mods i use the AW unprotected red high-drain batteries because you get a decent hit right till it wants to give up on that charge.
I don't like the Puresmoker mods, there is always problems with them.
And for everyone saying blah blah protected batteries... Unprotected batteries don't have short protection, but they are safer, if they decide to blow up they will just get very hot and vent gas, if the protection on a protected battery decides to fail, its gonna burst into flames. For my bigger mods i use the AW unprotected red high-drain batteries because you get a decent hit right till it wants to give up on that charge.
To the original poster, I'll touch on one of the best reasons to use a 3.7v mod PV over the standard 510 3.7v batteries. With actual 3.7v of power, and a low-resistance atomizer, you can hit the coveted 8-10 watt vaping sweet spot. Regular 510 batteries are too weak for this. 6v PVs can do it, but you have to invest in regulators or pricey high voltage atomizers.
Here's some info to keep in mind when you're shopping for parts.
Batteries - research the actual voltage it puts out (the voltage level)
Atomizers - when buying, look for the ohms rating (the resistance level)
Here's a link to an Ohm's & Watt's Law Calculator
Punch in the voltage and the resistance (ohms) and click 'Calculate' and look at the resulting 'Power (watts)' level that you get.
What you're shooting for is 8-10 watts most of the time. Most users find that this is the sweet spot for vaping. If you have a PV that you enjoy using, find the voltage and ohms, punch those in, and jot down the resulting power level. It might not be between 8-10 watts, but it might be your personal sweet spot. You can shop more wisely when you can figure this stuff out before spending $$. Yay!
Examples
I have a 510 battery, it's 3.7v but doing online research I find it puts out around 3.2v. I have a 510 atomizer, rated at 2.3 ohms. So over to that calculator: 3.2volts and 2.3ohms gives me 4.4 watts of vaping power. Very poor!
Next I have a 510 battery, again puts out just 3.2v... and I have a low-resistance 510 atomizer, rated at 1.5 ohms. Calculator gives me... 6.8 watts of vaping power. Better!
Alright. Now I get a 3.7v mod, I find a battery that puts out 3.7v. I use a LR atomizer with it, which again is rated at 1.5 ohms. Calculator gives me... 9.12 watts. Perfect!
Anyway, some food for thought, happy vaping!
Here's some info to keep in mind when you're shopping for parts.
Batteries - research the actual voltage it puts out (the voltage level)
Atomizers - when buying, look for the ohms rating (the resistance level)
Here's a link to an Ohm's & Watt's Law Calculator
Punch in the voltage and the resistance (ohms) and click 'Calculate' and look at the resulting 'Power (watts)' level that you get.
What you're shooting for is 8-10 watts most of the time. Most users find that this is the sweet spot for vaping. If you have a PV that you enjoy using, find the voltage and ohms, punch those in, and jot down the resulting power level. It might not be between 8-10 watts, but it might be your personal sweet spot. You can shop more wisely when you can figure this stuff out before spending $$. Yay!
Examples
I have a 510 battery, it's 3.7v but doing online research I find it puts out around 3.2v. I have a 510 atomizer, rated at 2.3 ohms. So over to that calculator: 3.2volts and 2.3ohms gives me 4.4 watts of vaping power. Very poor!
Next I have a 510 battery, again puts out just 3.2v... and I have a low-resistance 510 atomizer, rated at 1.5 ohms. Calculator gives me... 6.8 watts of vaping power. Better!
Alright. Now I get a 3.7v mod, I find a battery that puts out 3.7v. I use a LR atomizer with it, which again is rated at 1.5 ohms. Calculator gives me... 9.12 watts. Perfect!
Anyway, some food for thought, happy vaping!
Yep!! Next month will be 1 year dat I bought da Silver Bullet, I use it all day ebby day and noth'n else!! and It works 1st time ebby time jut likes da day i got it!! with none switch issues at all. It may seem a little large fer some folks,but da fact remains dat it juts works and dares no tell'n how long it may last.....Hecknaw
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Correct me if I'm wrong but a standard Joye 510 is not a true 3.7v vape. I believe the fluctuate around 3.2v. I own mods for 3.7, 5, and 6v vaping. The sweet spot voltage vaping is all subjective so you kinda need just try them out and see what your comfortable with. You can pick up a cheap box mod cheap, I would start with one of those if you wanna step up from a reg 510. I got mine from Ken's box mods, I believe his 3.7v are only like $25. Don't ever use unprotected batteries unless you hate your hands, face, and lips. You get what you put into your batts there is a reason why some brands like AW's are more expensive. It's b/c they are better batteries so your not just paying for the name but the quality of the product.
What are you talking about ? Protected batteries are the ones that burst into flames / fire.... unprotected batteries there is no short protection, but there's no fire it's just gas if they decide to take a dive.
Yep!! Was I da only one drop'd on the head as a youg'n?....Hecknaw
I see no reason not to get a variable voltage... I mean, the Buzz costs less than some 3.7's out there... is there a reason not to get a variable voltage?
What are you talking about? First of all who said anything about flames and fire. If you use unprotected batts and there is not enough vent holes in it, the gas will build in the mod till it explodes which turns the mod into shrapnel. Quick example using a box mod with unprotected batts and not vent holes. If the batteries gas out and it burst the plastic then you get plastic in your face and hand.
I think the only way to go is with a variable like the Buzz. You can set it to the voltage you like but if the price is to much a hello battery and a LR Atomizer is as good as any of my 3.7 big mods. I personaly like my Buzz for home and my Hello 016 when I'm out and about.
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You were the one saying don't use unprotected batteries unless you hate your face and hands etc, which implies bad damage, and failing protected batteries do much worse damage... if an unprotected battery decides to let off in my GG Telescopic Storm it's just gonna get real hot and vent off through the holes at the end. If i used protected batteries, it's gonna go boom with flames coming out of the holes at the end, much worse.
As for your example.... that's another story, if someone does that then they're asking for trouble, but you're trying to imply that protected batteries are safer when they fail, they are not, unprotected are a safer chemistry, they just do not have short protection.
All mods should have vent holes as standard.
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I believe I was giving my opinion. I you wanna disagree thats fine. The OP has never used a HV mod if you suggest he go with unprotected batts on a unregulated mod then ok. I explained my logic behind what i said and that it pertained to mods with no vent holes. not everyone is fortunate enough to be able to afford GG.
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