- Status
I was thinking about safety shut down circuit too...do the rapid 5 clicks and see if it goes on-line
If they don't flash without the atomizer but do with one on it they are not dead and something else might be going on here..something might be tripping the protection circuit. But it's only a guess..maybe you should have someone else look at them in case your missing something or try contacting support where you bought the batteries.
Also I doubt this is it but in case I wonder if those batteries have a turn off "code" I've been reading a some new eGo's can be turned off/on by pressing the button 5x and some can change voltages by different numbers of pressing the buttons..look at any manuals you got with the batteries...
Last edited:
The worst one lights up after the five button hits. The other two are lighting up now without the atty in when I push the button. They flash. I'm not getting a real steady voltage reading--probably because I'm not steady enough. It looks like about 5 volts, max.
Your Mosfet connection is shot, the Batts are done, just my opinion, where you running LR Carto's/Atty's on these Batts and chain vaping with them ? you may have burnt out the one wire in the connection, in which case the white button will still blink but the Batts will not work and they are done.
This can happen a couple of different ways, one way is chain vaping LR stuff, if that's what your doing it's best to run a pair of batts and switch up every couple of vapes so the Batts Mosfet connection doesn't over heat & fry. Secondly if your using a different charger then what came with the Batts or the wrong charger it can also fry the connection, sounds crazy I know but its happen to me a few times with different set ups. I have so many I now have to mark my chargers and Batts. Most recently I plugged a longtootem VV Ego type Batt in a reg charger and it smoked it immediately instead of using the charger the VV Batt came with and the charger looks and is marked with exactly the same specs as my others accept the actual metal piece on the chargers front is a tad different. Anyways just a few of the different things that have crossed my path with these different Batts and ya I know any old 4.2v charger should charge them but it just isnt how it works it seems. So make sure you have the right charger and use 2 Batts to chain vape with rather then over heating one Batt. Just trying to help and say what has happen to a few of my set ups over time, especially running very LR Atty's, all these Batts have very cheaply done solder joints and are very touchy when it comes to different connections by either chargers or Atty's/Carto at times. Others run on whatever you throw on it or charge em with, but the constant white light flash is a sure sign of the mosfet connection being SHOT.
This can happen a couple of different ways, one way is chain vaping LR stuff, if that's what your doing it's best to run a pair of batts and switch up every couple of vapes so the Batts Mosfet connection doesn't over heat & fry. Secondly if your using a different charger then what came with the Batts or the wrong charger it can also fry the connection, sounds crazy I know but its happen to me a few times with different set ups. I have so many I now have to mark my chargers and Batts. Most recently I plugged a longtootem VV Ego type Batt in a reg charger and it smoked it immediately instead of using the charger the VV Batt came with and the charger looks and is marked with exactly the same specs as my others accept the actual metal piece on the chargers front is a tad different. Anyways just a few of the different things that have crossed my path with these different Batts and ya I know any old 4.2v charger should charge them but it just isnt how it works it seems. So make sure you have the right charger and use 2 Batts to chain vape with rather then over heating one Batt. Just trying to help and say what has happen to a few of my set ups over time, especially running very LR Atty's, all these Batts have very cheaply done solder joints and are very touchy when it comes to different connections by either chargers or Atty's/Carto at times. Others run on whatever you throw on it or charge em with, but the constant white light flash is a sure sign of the mosfet connection being SHOT.
Last edited:
Ego-T Batts have a max output of 4v+ there is no way to achieve 5v from them.
She may not be using a digital meter & said "I'm not getting a real steady voltage reading--probably because I'm not steady enough. It looks like about 5 volts, max."
Obviously if she is getting around 3.4 V or so, maybe higher on the passthrough, it's working.
Obviously if she is getting around 3.4 V or so, maybe higher on the passthrough, it's working.
Probably my bad reading, but the battery is definitely outputting some power. I have been chain vaping pretty often, and also the juice has flooded into the battery a couple of times. I've been switching off between them and charging, so they've all been getting the same treatment. Maybe that's why all died. I only have one type of charger, so no chance of using the wrong type. I've been switching the cartomizer between them since I started using it. The button is flashing when I press it or when I touch the center button in the battery. It flashes 4 times after the first press on all of them, with an atty in them. They don't flash without an atty any longer...probably because the alcohol dried out.
coyotech, these are sealed Batts for the most part, a little juice shouldnt kill them if it gets into the bottom part of the connection just do like you are and clean them out and keep them clean. The continuous white flash is probably meaning a dead batt and the Mosfet connection has come apart. Sometimes you can actually tap them against a table and it will then work again but not for long, I've also had this happen and done this, as well as taken many of them apart and fixed them by re-soldering the connections. Best thing like I was saying is to keep rotating like you said you where, every couple of vapes pick up the other batt and use it when running LR stuff, if not it really shouldn't matter, the LR stuff draws more amperage and puts more stress on the batts heating them and the connections up more. Batts are Batts like any other and can go and will go at the oddest times, thank god there cheap enough to replace easily so you can keep vaping 
When you are trying to charge them. Are you using the USB plug, plugged in to the AC wall converter? Or are you using the USB plug, plugged in to the USB port of a computer. I found out just yesterday, that trying to use the wall converter was not charging my batterys. I would plug them in and the light on the USB plug would stay green or very shortly after I plugged it in would turn green using the wall converter. I have to use the USB plug and just plug it in to my computer USB port for them to charge. Meaning the wall converter is not working right.
Did you try a new cart/atomizer in them? BTW my Smok Tech eGo's read 3.7v under a full charge just for a reference it should be somewhere near that..could be as low as maybe 3.5v though with different brands...
Also I would just have someone check them out in case it's something you missed..good luck
Also I would just have someone check them out in case it's something you missed..good luck
Last edited:
Haploe, there are different types of AC-USB converters, the one your using is not for the chargers we use, there is a small difference in the USB type connector, make sure you get one of the correct types they work very well if you have the right one, you may be able to return the one you got and exchange it for the different type that will work depending on where you got it, it's just the small internal plastic piece that is different n some of them.
They do get hot when I use them, and then I switch to another. That's probably a bad sign...just last night when they were working, I was thinking how great that they had lasted so long
coyotech, these are sealed Batts for the most part, a little juice shouldnt kill them if it gets into the bottom part of the connection just do like you are and clean them out and keep them clean. The continuous white flash is probably meaning a dead batt and the Mosfet connection has come apart. Sometimes you can actually tap them against a table and it will then work again but not for long, I've also had this happen and done this, as well as taken many of them apart and fixed them by re-soldering the connections. Best thing like I was saying is to keep rotating like you said you where, every couple of vapes pick up the other batt and use it when running LR stuff, if not it really shouldn't matter, the LR stuff draws more amperage and puts more stress on the batts heating them and the connections up more. Batts are Batts like any other and can go and will go at the oddest times, thank god there cheap enough to replace easily so you can keep vaping
I've tried both the plug-in charger and the USB charger...doesn't seem to be the chargers themselves.
Are they 650 mAh Batts ? I find the 900mAh ones last and work much better, you may want to try the 900-1100mAh next time you buy some, just a thought
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
