30 Gauge Kanthal A-1 bandwagon

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Ctor

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I've been successfully using 32 Gauge Kanthal A-1 on my genesis attys (6 AGA-T2's with IBTanked glass and 6 SS Satin Vulcans also with IBTanked glass) and some retired plated did clones. The vape was very good, good enough for me to use them almost exclusively for the past month or so.

The 32 gauge worked, but it took a decent amount of fiddling to get a good coil going. I have to say I got pretty good at it. But I got some 30 gauge after reading some of the recommendations here. What a difference.

First off, the setup is much easier. With a fresh wick, minimally oxidized, pretty much all I had to do was get the tension on the top coil right. I got two coils set up in almost no time at all. That's a big plus. It also holds it's shape better, so wrapping with no gaps was easier and much less adjustment had to be made to the coil to tighten it up after installing the wick. FYI, I wrap the coil straight on the wick while it's off the device then I install the wick.

The vape is much better with a fresh build. Thicker vapor and more flavor, more like the 32 gauge builds I have tasted and vaped after a couple of tanks. Specs are as follows: AGA-T2 7/6 wraps @2.1 ohm, 500 SS mesh very slightly smaller than the wick hole, almost solid wick (pushpin sized void at the center of the wick) and vaping at 9 watts. The Vulcan I did the same way except a 6/5 wrap at 1.9 ohms.

If you're on the fence, try it. I got a 100 foot roll on Ebay for 6.65 shipped: Kanthal A1 Wire 30 Gauge 100 ft 0 39oz Resistance Resistor AWG A 1 | eBay

I'll check back in a few days to see if I'm still thrilled with the stuff. :)
 

Ctor

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OK, it's been more than a few days, but here's my check in.

I've recoiled all 12 of my genesis attys (6 satin Vulcans and 6 AGA-T2's , all with IBTanked glass) with 1.5 ohm 30 gauge coils. The vape is outstanding with 500 mesh, 1 1/2 inch x 2 3/4 inch in size rolled with slight straw configuration and snug but not tight to the wick hole. Fill screws are left in, and I get no leaking whatsoever from any of my attys and no wicking problems. I can even see air bubbles coming from the bottom of the wick that equalize the pressure in the tank and keep the wicking process efficient.

The wick requires minimal oxidizing. I do a quick pass of the unrolled mesh over the burners on my gas stove, roll the wick, folding over the last 1/2 inch or so to prevent frays, and fit it to the wick hole. Then I reheat the coil portion of the rolled mesh and heat the Kanthal on stove burners to anneal and clean the wire. Then I wrap a 4/5 coil tightly on the wick while it's off the atty, then I install the wick into the atty.

The only trick is getting the tension of the top coil right, which is helped by kinking the top wire so when it pulls during tightening, it doesn't create undue pressure on the wick.

From there, with the 30 gauge Kanthal A-1, it usually requires minimal adjustment, which I do with a sewing needle, to get all coils to glow evenly.

I can go from cutting the mesh to evenly glowing coils in about 10 minutes. And the original ones I coiled when I first got the 30 gauge are still going strong with at least 8 tanks each.

I hope this helps someone :).
 

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Satava

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What are the tank dimensions for the AGA-T2 I would also like to get a Pyrex Tank from IBTanked

You can also order them in colors for +$5.

I too am in love with the 30awg. I use a Vamo, so I need to keep my ohms in the 1.5 range, the 30 seems to give enough coverage with enough heat to really enjoy my flavors.
 

michaelsil1

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It wouldn't as its non-resistance wire.

Silver is used by some on the leads of the coil to prevent them from getting hot. But its unnecessary.

30awg is pretty much all I use these days, though I've been playing with some braided 32g as I've got a spool of 32 and not much use for it.

So we don't want non-resistance wire. What's the difference.
 
I found some [h=2]Sterling Silver NR Wire AWG 30[/h] I was wondering how this would work does anyone know?
The "nr" stands for no resistance...you don't want that.
That is usually used for builds that requires positive contacts in places that would burn. Stupid idea for a device period...
 
It wouldn't as its non-resistance wire.

Silver is used by some on the leads of the coil to prevent them from getting hot. But its unnecessary.

30awg is pretty much all I use these days, though I've been playing with some braided 32g as I've got a spool of 32 and not much use for it.
I've twisted it, do you actually braid it, wouldn't that be 3 pieces? I double a length over, and twist from the loop created at the fold.
 

Ctor

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So we don't want non-resistance wire. What's the difference.

Non resistance wire will have nearly 0 ohms of resistance over the length of a typical coil. You would in effect be creating a dead short. At best your device wouldn't fire if it was protected somehow. Likely you'd vaporize the NR wire, but there's a real possibility of battery damage in the process on a non-protected mechanical mod.
 

michaelsil1

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Non resistance wire will have nearly 0 ohms of resistance over the length of a typical coil. You would in effect be creating a dead short. At best your device wouldn't fire if it was protected somehow. Likely you'd vaporize the NR wire, but there's a real possibility of battery damage in the process on a non-protected mechanical mod.

Thanks, I will remember this!
 
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