coil resistance and surface/liquid contact

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dezyner

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So whats the deal with touching coils? I plan on getting into rbas after I get a vv mod that lets me check ohms. Just wondering as the info I have seen claims it can short your system to have them touch. Or if they are touching do you want them all to touch? Ahh the joys of bein a nub.

you just asked for thousands of opinions... lol. take what works, ditch the rest.
 

super_X_drifter

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So whats the deal with touching coils? I plan on getting into rbas after I get a vv mod that lets me check ohms. Just wondering as the info I have seen claims it can short your system to have them touch. Or if they are touching do you want them all to touch? Ahh the joys of bein a nub.

I cannot tell you where that theory originated, being a relative noob myself, however, I can tell you that it's hogwash :). I have never had a shorted mod, but do experience off the chain vaping with tiny, scrunched together coil masses :)

I have found no way yet to get them all to touch but many do and / or are very close like this :
u6enuqu4.jpg
 
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pdib

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I have found no way yet to get them all to touch but many do and / or are very close like this :

u6enuqu4.jpg

it would be hard to do with your "cobra style" Supe-san; but when I do my 5 or 6 wraps on, say, a 3/32 or 7/64 ID, I actually (sometimes) torch them to anneal them, then squeeze them together with parallel action pliers. So, there's one way.
 

Ibocpro

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Kinda just realized the post got hijacked from dezyner's original question (sorry bout that :blush:). But this I can answer to a degree, thicker wire is easier for electricity to move through so the lower the gauge the lower the resistance. Thin wire will heat faster than thicker wire but you have to take into account Ohm's law in that amps = volts / resistance. In terms of watts: watts = amps * volts. With those two equations you can figure what the draw is on your battery and how much "power" you are using. Suffice it to say it is not a linear scale.

If you do the math you can figure out how much wire you need to obtain a certain resistance, I have found it is simpler to just use a die (needle, screw, or whatever) and to wrap x number of times then test it out. So I know if I wrap 5 times on my die with 32 gauge kanthal A1 I will get ~ 1.7 - 1.9 Ohms. With 28 gauge I will get 0.8 - 1.0 Ohms. I just changed my die to a 4-40x1-1/4 machine screw and now with a "micro-coil" get 1.5 Ohms with a 10/9 wrap. If I were to use 32 gauge it would be much higher... so I would need to reduce the wraps to get the same resistance.

I sure there will be better advise coming at you from the more experienced people here but I tend to do the math and mix it with the "just do it" principal and see what happens. Hope this helps a bit, cheers.
 

Jerms

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I was truly baffled that when I started building drippers a few months ago it, seemed like it was common knowledge in this section that wraps on a coil can't touch. I've used disposable atties for years, of course the wraps can touch. Cisco spec atties work so well because of the dozen or so touching wraps, and when you buy 1.5 ohm it will read 1.5 ohm. A Cisco spec 510 is like any other 510, except the generic ones use a few spaced wraps while Ciscos have a micro coil. That alone is the reason they are better and people are willing to pay a few dollars more. EmpireMods also sells atties with micro coils and I think Ikenvape does too.

Whether using cotton and sub-ohm with 26ga or silica and higher ohm with 32ga, or anything in between, micro coils just work better, as long as the build wicks properly.

Sent from my LGL55C using Tapatalk 2
 
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