3D Auto Dripper Clone from Vapingtech-First look and Impressions

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levisdaddy

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my 1st dual coil failed.
only one side of two perfectly equal 30g MCs was heating quickly. removed one and have a 1.05 ohm MC with 30g, about 7 wraps. working well. i need to enlarge airholes a bit. sitting in hybrid on my nem. this is a game changer.
i bought this thru congrevape group buy, and now i see it on fasttech for less. i may get a 2nd one if they are identical.
any thoughts on the two being the same?

also, and i feel kinda dumb. what is the best way to take it apart? specifically how to take off the center bar/post so that i can clean the well underneath.
 

levisdaddy

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I tried to gently uncrew it, but kept getting caught on the fill hole. i gave up and built on it.
ill have to wait till i tire of this lemon juice, lol

does it screw off independently? or do i have to lossen the cylinder tube under the screw (above the block)

i find it hard to articulate specific atty parts, not knowing proper terms... however, not sure there is a set glossary :)

The common block screws off, and you just pull the deck out, to get to spring and juice wells.

37, ph0n3 h0m3.
 

Kemosabe

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I tried to gently uncrew it, but kept getting caught on the fill hole. i gave up and built on it.
ill have to wait till i tire of this lemon juice, lol

does it screw off independently? or do i have to lossen the cylinder tube under the screw (above the block)

i find it hard to articulate specific atty parts, not knowing proper terms... however, not sure there is a set glossary :)

You have to press the deck down while you unscrew the common block. You can unthread the fill nozzle but it's my recommendation not to. People complain about how hard it is to get back in.

The ft 3d, the one I have, is likely hcigar. I'm not sure what congrevape is selling, haven't checked.
 

levisdaddy

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thanks bubba! that is an easy solution that i overlooked. granted, i was in a rush to get that thing built and mounted!

2nd question, for dual coil, should i situate the fill hole under one side of the block?
when the hole is under the block, doesnt that reduce the size of the tank/chamber? or can i tighten the fill hole down to not make contact with the block?

You have to press the deck down while you unscrew the common block. You can unthread the fill nozzle but it's my recommendation not to. People complain about how hard it is to get back in.

The ft 3d, the one I have, is likely hcigar. I'm not sure what congrevape is selling, haven't checked.
 

gratefulbuddy

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I DO keep the fill hole under one end of the block with duals and have had zero problems. With the fill hole "out in the open" so-to-speak I would often find the wick that wasn't near the fill hole would always dry out before the other.
The congrevape's fill hole screw preventing the block from spinning is different from the VT unit (which has a shorter fill screw that allows full-360-spinning of the block)
 

Kemosabe

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thanks bubba! that is an easy solution that i overlooked. granted, i was in a rush to get that thing built and mounted!

2nd question, for dual coil, should i situate the fill hole under one side of the block?
when the hole is under the block, doesnt that reduce the size of the tank/chamber? or can i tighten the fill hole down to not make contact with the block?

what i do is keep my fill hole out in the open. i might try leaving it under the block as thats where it lands when you tighten the block down all the way. but i thought that was a clone design flaw. i have been leaving the common black tightened down *almost* all the way as to allow the fill valve to be out in the open. however, on occasion i'll notice one side going dry before the other like my fellow deadhead so maybe i'll try your method, gratefulbud.
 

suspectK

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I DO keep the fill hole under one end of the block with duals and have had zero problems. With the fill hole "out in the open" so-to-speak I would often find the wick that wasn't near the fill hole would always dry out before the other.
The congrevape's fill hole screw preventing the block from spinning is different from the VT unit (which has a shorter fill screw that allows full-360-spinning of the block)

I think I would prefer that.. I take out the common block to get dual coils set up from the amount of spinning that occurs.
 

WattWick

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what i do is keep my fill hole out in the open. i might try leaving it under the block as thats where it lands when you tighten the block down all the way. but i thought that was a clone design flaw. i have been leaving the common black tightened down *almost* all the way as to allow the fill valve to be out in the open. however, on occasion i'll notice one side going dry before the other like my fellow deadhead so maybe i'll try your method, gratefulbud.

Not sure which version neither you or I have. Mine's from FT. If I press the cap down and rotate it, I can re-align the fill hole to wherever I want it. With just a single wick setup, I prefer it opposite of the wick. Got my mesh running below the negative block so it soaks up liquid pretty much no matter where it's at.
 

Kemosabe

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Not sure which version neither you or I have. Mine's from FT. If I press the cap down and rotate it, I can re-align the fill hole to wherever I want it. With just a single wick setup, I prefer it opposite of the wick. Got my mesh running below the negative block so it soaks up liquid pretty much no matter where it's at.

mine is from FT as well. i will try what you do in order to get the fill hole out from under the block when fully tightened down. i hadnt thought to try that. i also want to try a mesh wick in mine, being a fellow mesh enthusiast. care to share a photo of your build?
 

WattWick

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mine is from FT as well. i will try what you do in order to get the fill hole out from under the block when fully tightened down. i hadnt thought to try that. i also want to try a mesh wick in mine, being a fellow mesh enthusiast. care to share a photo of your build?

It's not looking very pretty. Was meant as an experiment only. Worked so well I haven't bothered re-doing it :)

kfx3.jpg


Rolled 500-mesh around a piece of 26 awg kanthal. Mesh cut diagonally for easy bending. Kanthal core to keep it rigid so wick "legs" could be tucked underneath the block without moving around when atty is pumped. Wick is not long enough to stick out on the other side, tho.

Wick is a bit scorched. Have to work on making compressed coils on mesh without using the torch too much ;)
 

Kemosabe

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It's not looking very pretty. Was meant as an experiment only. Worked so well I haven't bothered re-doing it :)

kfx3.jpg


Rolled 500-mesh around a piece of 26 awg kanthal. Mesh cut diagonally for easy bending. Kanthal core to keep it rigid so wick "legs" could be tucked underneath the block without moving around when atty is pumped. Wick is not long enough to stick out on the other side, tho.

Wick is a bit scorched. Have to work on making compressed coils on mesh without using the torch too much ;)

looks great to me. i really like the kanthal core idea!
being a mesh fan, i feel the need to try this. i get the best flavor from mesh, yet havent used it in anything beside my gennys in far too long. plus, im getting great flavor from the 3D anyway so i can only imagine how great itll be once i mesh it. very exciting. :)
 

kato1234

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I see a lot of people complaining about the fill screw. Not wanting to remove it because it was so hard to replace and so they weren't tightening their posts up all the way. This leaves them free to move and can screw up the coil. If you remove it and want to put it back in just stick it on a round toothpick and start it in the hole. Takes 2 seconds and I've done it many times without any problem.

Kato
 

Kemosabe

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I see a lot of people complaining about the fill screw. Not wanting to remove it because it was so hard to replace and so they weren't tightening their posts up all the way. This leaves them free to move and can screw up the coil. If you remove it and want to put it back in just stick it on a round toothpick and start it in the hole. Takes 2 seconds and I've done it many times without any problem.

Kato

awesome tip!
ive since found that you can indeed tighten down the common block even with the fill hole nozzle installed. you can just keep spinning the common block and the juice pumping tray will spin until its secure. this also alleviates the spinning pos post issue and the headache that comes with that.

i still cant get over how rich the flavor is with this puppy. i thought i had flavor loss / vapers tongue from one of my favorite juices until i loaded er up in the 3D. boom- absolutely no flavor loss. flavor amplification, as a matter of fact :D
 

vapero

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i've been an exclusive dripper for at least 6 months, dos the 3d still fits there?? well...

after a few days my liquid starts turning really dark as it used to do on my clearos when I started, I guess it is because of the little juice that stays on the reservoir for a long time getting contaminated with the burnt juice, so
how often do you pull apart and clean everything?
 

Kemosabe

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I don't typically swap juices with my attys. I usually dedicate one juice to each. Especially with the 3d. Changing juice requires a full rebuild the way I see it. But I don't get dark wicks until the tank is damn near empty. Plus I use a coil gunker in my 3d so it needs a wick change and dry burn just about each "tank"ful anyway.

I think excessive pumping can prematurely darken your wicks. That's what was happening to me at first. I was enamored with the design and couldn't stop pumping. But I think this is bad because I find for top performance (in any atty) you need to get your cotton wick relatively dry before re saturating.

I love my 3d. Love the flavor it gives, love the design, the TH is magnificent, and the added power from the hybrid connection all spells winner in my book.
 
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