4Nine getting warm - ideas?

[Kh888]

Hi All,

I have a couple of 4nines. One is authentic and the the copper version is a clone from Infinite. Both have been very good, thus far.

However, I do notice that the mod does get warm with an 18350 battery and a kayfun Lite at 1.5 - 1.7 ohms. The copper version is a bitter warmer. In addition, I will notice some "perspiration" that forms on the top of the 4nine and the underside of the kayfun Lite.

Anyone else experience this and if so, are there options to remedy this? I am very concerned about safety and just want to make sure nothing is awry.

Thanks for your help!

 

[DetraMental]

I know it's crucial to clean all contacts and threading.

 

[AzPlumber]

Copper is an excellent conductor of heat so it's no surprise you would notice it getting warmer. If it is getting hot I would be concerned about a poor connection somewhere.

 

[Kh888]

Thank you. I have been doing so, but will do it again to be safe.

 

[Kalaniboi81]

My only guess would be that if it's only getting warm when your using the 18350 then it's just the atty heating up the mod. It would make sense because it's it's only a third it's size and would make it much easier to warm up. As for the perspiration there's juice making its way down there and it would be good to check all seals for failure. I have a 26650 copper infinite 4NINE clone and it also heats up slightly. I thought there was an issue but my buddy has the SS version and it does the same. I think it has alot to do with the hybrid top cap. There isn't much separating the atty and mod therefore the heat can transfer faster than with a mod with a top cap and connection pin. VAPE ON!

 

[Kh888]

My only guess would be that if it's only getting warm when your using the 18350 then it's just the atty heating up the mod. It would make sense because it's it's only a third it's size and would make it much easier to warm up. As for the perspiration there's juice making its way down there and it would be good to check all seals for failure. I have a 26650 copper infinite 4NINE clone and it also heats up slightly. I thought there was an issue but my buddy has the SS version and it does the same. I think it has alot to do with the hybrid top cap. There isn't much separating the atty and mod therefore the heat can transfer faster than with a mod with a top cap and connection pin. VAPE ON!

Thank you for the explanation. I will double check everything. It is warm, but not hot, so perhaps it really is just the nature of the beast!

 

[State O' Flux]

However, I do notice that the mod does get warm with an 18350 battery and a Kayfun Lite at 1.5 - 1.7 ohms. The copper version is a bitter warmer. In addition, I will notice some "perspiration" that forms on the top of the 4nine and the underside of the Kayfun Lite.

Anyone else experience this and if so, are there options to remedy this? I am very concerned about safety and just want to make sure nothing is awry.

Thanks for your help!

Although Kalaniboi81's conclusion is the most likely correct one, considering the devices in use... you may have what could be described as alternately, a poor continuity, voltage drop, excessive resistance or conductivity issue. It could be a battery, the mod button conductance, the battery contacts... or a resistance in the atty itself.

Should you wish to investigate further...

If you have a DMM (digital multimeter) you can test your mods for conductance (resistance - which should be zero ohms through all component parts and assemblies) and voltage loss - without a load.

Although you can build an adapter for use with a DMM, it's easier to just buy a inline 510 voltmeter (not an endorsement, just an example). With it you can test for voltage drop under load. For consistencies sake, I'd suggest always using the same load... generally a 2.0Ω or 1.0Ω resistance.

 

[Kh888]

Although Kalaniboi81's conclusion is the most likely correct one, considering the devices in use... you may have what could be described as alternately, a poor continuity, voltage drop, excessive resistance or conductivity issue. It could be a battery, the mod button conductance, the battery contacts... or a resistance in the atty itself.

Should you wish to investigate further...

If you have a DMM (digital multimeter) you can test your mods for conductance (resistance - which should be zero ohms through all component parts and assemblies) and voltage loss - without a load.

Although you can build an adapter for use with a DMM, it's easier to just buy a inline 510 voltmeter (not an endorsement, just an example). With it you can test for voltage drop under load. For consistencies sake, I'd suggest always using the same load... generally a 2.0Ω or 1.0Ω resistance.

You are right. Perhaps I should get an inline volt meter. I will place an order for one next time I order supplies. I need to plan better...shipping costs are killing me.

 

[crxess]

Nothing Op listed could be cause for concern for me.

Warm mod - your hand alone will raise it's temp. Add usage to that with the Atty heating and it should have a mildly warm feel. Copper more noticeable than Stainless.
18350 mode has the least amount of metal to dissipate heat.
Droplets - Air hole allowing vapor do exit and collect. Another non issue.

 

[Kh888]

Nothing Op listed could be cause for concern for me.

Warm mod - your hand alone will raise it's temp. Add usage to that with the Atty heating and it should have a mildly warm feel. Copper more noticeable than Stainless.
18350 mode has the least amount of metal to dissipate heat.
Droplets - Air hole allowing vapor do exit and collect. Another non issue.

Thanks for letting me know...