4th nicostick...new problem!

[HippyGirl]

I must not be holding my mouth right or SOMETHING...

Making a nicostick for an 801. Made it JUST like my last one (2AA box, 510, 14500 battery, etc) which works perfectly, but this one doesn't work.

I tested the battery...it's hot and the voltage is fine.

I checked the continuity from the positive terminal to the switch and from the switch to the center of the connector (followed the red wire)...no problems there.

I checked the continuity from negative terminal to the outside of the connector (followed the black wire)...no problems there.

When I put the battery in, however, I'm registering voltage from the positive battery terminal to the outside wire to the connector but not to the inside wire. On the working 510, however, I'm registering voltage on both.

I'm thinking I need to re-solder the red wire to the center of the connector...maybe it's not making good contact???

This is so frustrating! I realize my "electrical" knowledge is sorely lacking, this is a simple thing! Why can I get it right one time, but screw it up so bad the next time?

It's my soldering...surely.

Thanks,

Sherry

 

[Dave Rickey]

A bad center contact does sound like the problem. You could try the "staple mod", putting a staple or bit of soldered wire into the center contact path to make it easier to get a connection between those fittings. Or resolder the whole fitting on spec.

--Dave

 

[vendo]

You didn't mention if you checked the switch. Seeing how the switch on the last mod was faulty I would test that first
Just check for continuity between the two contacts. It will register only when you push the switch

 

[HippyGirl]

You didn't mention if you checked the switch. Seeing how the switch on the last mod was faulty I would test that first
Just check for continuity between the two contacts. It will register only when you push the switch

Ha! That was the first thing I checked...once bitten/twice shy, KWIM?

Going to wallyworld shortly (on Black Friday no less!) to pick up a few things. When I get back, I'm just going to re-solder the connector and see if that's the problem...there's a big glop of solder there and, like I said, I that's the only point where I get no voltage.

Will report back later.

Thanks to all for the help!

Sherry

 

[HippyGirl]

I pulled it apart, re-soldered, checked continuity...tell me if I'm checking this right...Checking CONTINUITY with everything hooked up/soldered in place:

RED WIRE
From the positive terminal to the switch
From one side of the switch to the other WITH the button pressed
From the switch to the center of the connector
From the center connector to the outside of the connector

BLACK WIRE
From the negative terminal to the outside of the connector
From the negative terminal to the inside of the connector

If that's what I'm supposed to be checking, then it's good as far as continuity is concerned.

However, there's STILL no voltage along the red wire to the center of the connector (with the switch pressed). COULD the switch still be bad even though it passed on continunity?

Just how long can I continue to hit this connector with heat without damaging it? Isn't there a plastic insulator inside of it that can melt?

Pah! Frustrated!

 

[Shreck]

unless Im reading this wrong, there should be no conductivity from the center post to the outerside of the connector. You said you checked continuity there but not whether you had any or not. There should not be any in these locations..

 

[vendo]

Just so I can make sure you are checking this right, can you explain how you are checking for voltage.
If you hold one meter lead on the neg end off the battery(or the terminal) and then go around the circuit with the other until there is no voltage. start at the battery + and work your way to the atty, via the switch.
There will be no voltage between the switch and the atty unless the switch is pressed
As Shrek has said, if there is continuity between the centre post and outer ring of the atty, you have a short on the atty and need to either correct that or use another connector
Just to rule out the battery, try another even if it's only a standard AA 1.5/1.2v and test again. I have read the protection on these li-ions can cut the power and needs to be recharged to reset it

 

[HippyGirl]

There is no continuity between the center post and the outer body of the connector...I was apparently touching something else when I was checking from the center to the outside...didn't see it until I put on my glasses AND optivisor.

Everything else checks out as far as continuity, though.

Vendo, I was checking voltage the way you suggest and it's good except from the switch to the center post of the atty (with the switch pushed)...that's why I was wondering if the switch could be bad even though it checks out on continuity.

I'm sorry if I seem to be vague on all of this...this is new to me and have a lot to learn.

Thank for your patience.

Sherry

 

[doots]

are you getting power up to the switch?
if so and you have no output when switch is depressed then you have a bad switch.

 

[Richie G]

are you getting power up to the switch?
if so and you have no output when switch is depressed then you have a bad switch.

What Doots said.

But, go a step further and just touch a piece of wire across the switch terminals. If it fires up the atty, replace the switch.

 

[doots]

What Doots said.

But, go a step further and just touch a piece of wire across the switch terminals. If it fires up the atty, replace the switch.

good idea. I should have said that myself.. lol
Jump the switch.. If you get action replace switch.

 

[vendo]

Don't worry Sherry we all have to start somewhere
when you say no voltage between the switch and centre pole, where do you have the meter leads touching. If it's those two points then you would have nothing

If you are getting voltage (around 4.2v on a freshly charged battery) between the battery - and the switch and then nothing between the battery - and the other side of the switch with the button pressed (the one that goes to the atty) then the switch is the problem.
When you are testing for voltage, make sure you are reading it properly (this is where a digital meter helps) and have a reading between 2.7v and 4.2v on a 14500 protected battery

 

[Dave Rickey]

Take an ohm reading, not just continuity. Something could be high-resistance where it should be just a conductor (including the closed switch).

--Dave

 

[vendo]

Take an ohm reading, not just continuity. Something could be high-resistance where it should be just a conductor (including the closed switch).

--Dave

Could be. I think she may have got some dodgy switches or maybe overheating them when soldering.

HC be careful if you try using the wire to jump the switch and only use it across the switch. you can easily short the battery if its not protected

Oh and this bits niggling too "I tested the battery...it's hot and the voltage is fine." Do you mean it's actually hot?

 

[mnealtx]

Take an ohm reading, not just continuity. Something could be high-resistance where it should be just a conductor (including the closed switch).

--Dave

What he said....but (and I'm sure you already know this) take out the batteries first - voltage does bad things to multimeters set on ohms.

 

[HippyGirl]

You know what? I'm just going to start the !%@&* over!

Before I checked the forum again, I had removed the switch and touched the red to the center and the black to the outside and it fired the atty, so yet ANOTHER bad switch! I think I see now why RS is referred to as "rat shack".

Anyway, I put the box away and concentrated instead on making a PVMA connector for an 801...suprisingly, that went well! I dry-fit into the box I "was" making (after basically gutting the thing) and ran the red/black wires straight it as needed and voila! VAPOR!



I needed the break!

Will get back on the box shortly.

S

 

[mnealtx]

Bless your heart...you're having NO luck with switches lately, are you?

 

[HippyGirl]

None at all (sniff sniff)!



Seriously though, I really think I might be getting them too hot...I'm not a whiz with this soldering iron. On the bright side, however, I "do" seem to be getting a LITTLE better at it...at least I no longer have GOBS of solder, only BLOBS.

Will report back...

S

BTW, I really DO have a life other than this, but when I start on something new, I usually obsess a bit.

 

[HippyGirl]

Could be. I think she may have got some dodgy switches or maybe overheating them when soldering.

HC be careful if you try using the wire to jump the switch and only use it across the switch. you can easily short the battery if its not protected

Oh and this bits niggling too "I tested the battery...it's hot and the voltage is fine." Do you mean it's actually hot?

No, not hot heat-wise...I meant it's charged. Sorry for the slang...picked it up from the mechanics in my family.

 

[mnealtx]

Pro tip:

Tin your wires. Assuming you're using stranded wire, make sure the wire is twisted tight and not unraveled. Touch the soldering iron to the wire, and the solder to the wire. The solder will flow up the wire, tinning it.

Make your mechanical connection first (put the wire through the ear of the switch from the bottom and bend it back so it stays in place), then, touch the soldering iron to the wire AND the ear of the switch and touch the solder to the top the ear. It will melt and flow around the wire. You don't need much. You should be able to see the outline of the wire in the solder. Look at the lapped termination, here. See how the wire shape is visible? That's what you should shoot for.