Tried to make a USB passthrough. Help.
- Thread starter Don'tReadTheRunes
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Interesting, I suppose it makes a lot of sense. Looking at a chart (and assuming I may be reading it right). 5 ' of 28 gauge wire has about 3.25 ohms of resistance. Going to 18 gauge cuts that to .34 ohms.
Seems making your own cable with some 18 gauge wire and these may make a big difference in PT performance with low ohm atties like 510.
Seems making your own cable with some 18 gauge wire and these may make a big difference in PT performance with low ohm atties like 510.
Chances are that decent cable has higher guage wire than what I used before. I bet it makes all the difference.
if you cut the cable very close to the plug and connect heavier wire you could avoid buying more cables. sounds like the 3.25 ohm resistance turned your cable into a voltage divider. with about 2.5 ohms on the atty and 3.25 on the cable the atty is only getting about 2.2 volts. not enough to heat up the element. glad to hear you found the location of the problem.
Yeah. What he said. 100 percent confirmed wire issue because I just did the above with tester wires. Damn, high voltage vaping is the BOMB!
Well, I finished it and now it works. That cheap cable was good for something (the terminal) I soldered 18 or 16 guage wire to the plug end and resoldered the housing and voila! Vaping away!
Thanks for everybody's input, it is appreciated.
Thanks for everybody's input, it is appreciated.
This has been an interesting thread. We always see so many PT issues, especially with the 510. They always seem to center around USB. Now I ask why worry about USB seeing as everyone is always searching for the 'right' AC adapter. Now we have wire issues to consider and the USB connector itself is only rated at 1.5A.
If you are building one from scratch and don't already have the AC adaptor simply build your box, choose your switch and install and wire to this:
Size N Panel-Mount Coaxial DC Power Jack - RadioShack.com
Then simply get one of these:
Genuine DELTA SWITCHING AC ADAPTOR ADP-15GH B 5V 3A - eBay (item 290372974728 end time Dec-22-09 04:34:30 PST)
You could probably get fancy and add a DPDT switch and a diode ending up with 5V or 4.3V PT.
There are probably many such PS' that would work. I believe it should be of the switching type though as they should regulate the volts.
A switched-mode power supply (also switching-mode power supply, SMPS, or simply switcher) is an electronic power supply unit (PSU) that incorporates a switching regulator in order to provide the required output voltage. An SMPS is actually a power converter that transmits power from a source (e.g., a battery or the electrical power grid) to a load (e.g., a personal computer) with ideally no losses. The function of the converter is to provide a reliable output voltage often at a different level than the input voltage.
If you are building one from scratch and don't already have the AC adaptor simply build your box, choose your switch and install and wire to this:
Size N Panel-Mount Coaxial DC Power Jack - RadioShack.com
Then simply get one of these:
Genuine DELTA SWITCHING AC ADAPTOR ADP-15GH B 5V 3A - eBay (item 290372974728 end time Dec-22-09 04:34:30 PST)
You could probably get fancy and add a DPDT switch and a diode ending up with 5V or 4.3V PT.
There are probably many such PS' that would work. I believe it should be of the switching type though as they should regulate the volts.
A switched-mode power supply (also switching-mode power supply, SMPS, or simply switcher) is an electronic power supply unit (PSU) that incorporates a switching regulator in order to provide the required output voltage. An SMPS is actually a power converter that transmits power from a source (e.g., a battery or the electrical power grid) to a load (e.g., a personal computer) with ideally no losses. The function of the converter is to provide a reliable output voltage often at a different level than the input voltage.
If you have and old D-Link router check out the PS. The are usually 5V @2.5 to 3A. I just found an old SBS/ATT 2WIRE modem PS I had laying around... 5.1V@2A. Off to the workshop, multimeter in hand. 
You guys just made my life a whole lot easier. Usb is not really needed for a simple passthrough, I guess its just typical because of the convenience of the port. This matters not to me and I'm glad you brought it to my attention. I've been so overwhelmed by all the information in this section that I seem to have lost the ability to think for myself.
Now I don't have to worry about getting enough amperage from the damn usb port. I have an old d-link print server (parallel port, lol) that I found and the power supply is 5V 2.5A. Nice heavy gauge wires, too. No more worries about frying a usb port or damaging my mobo.
Now I don't have to worry about getting enough amperage from the damn usb port. I have an old d-link print server (parallel port, lol) that I found and the power supply is 5V 2.5A.
Nice heavy gauge wires, too. No more worries about frying a usb port or damaging my mobo.Yup, the power jack solution works too...just have to have room in the box for it. If you're making a direct-wire PT (no battery), shouldn't be a problem.
Good luck!
Good luck!
they make inexpensive selectable power adapters. they usually range from 3 to 12 volts. i got 1 with 3, 4.5, 6, 7.5, 9 and 12 volts. it runs at 1 amp. they come with changeable connectors. you could always put in a 5 volt regulator chip and set the voltage at 12 volts. should be plenty of current for this app.
1A is useless for a 510 atty as has been mentioned numerous times in this thread.
I wouldn't say it's useless, I will say that your power supply is probably not going to last very long (in comparison to, say, a 2a supply) if you're hitting a 510 at 5v off of it.
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