510 Passthrough Question
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is it a 510 ego?
If it is then, yes it will work.
I've used my joye ego passthrough is LR cartos while plugged into the computer.
I'm not entirely sure if your afraid the computer will be damaged. I use an IMAC and it will tell me if I'm drawing too much power from my comp.
If it's not an ego I don't think you can use LR cartos with a small 510 batt, I could be wrong though.
If it is then, yes it will work.
I've used my joye ego passthrough is LR cartos while plugged into the computer.
I'm not entirely sure if your afraid the computer will be damaged. I use an IMAC and it will tell me if I'm drawing too much power from my comp.
If it's not an ego I don't think you can use LR cartos with a small 510 batt, I could be wrong though.
I would NOT use a pass-through plugged into a laptop. There have been numerous reports of people damaging their laptops and even needing to replace their motherboards. Get a good 5 volt/2 amp USB to AC adapter and plug into an outlet.
And you can use any LR or dual coil on a 5 volt pass-through. But in the long run you would be better served to just get a good 5 volt PV such as the 5 volt GLV2 which comes with a lifetime warranty and will handle anything you put on it. Plus most pass-throughs are very cheap and cheaply made and do not hold up very long.
And you can use any LR or dual coil on a 5 volt pass-through. But in the long run you would be better served to just get a good 5 volt PV such as the 5 volt GLV2 which comes with a lifetime warranty and will handle anything you put on it. Plus most pass-throughs are very cheap and cheaply made and do not hold up very long.
It's a little bit more complicated, with a lot of history and hardware changes over time. So, the full answer is a bit tricky. Also, you actually have two questions... PT's on computers, and LR stuff. However, the easy solution in most cases is to do what wv2win said and use a 2 amp or better wall-wart.
Now, that said... as a generalization, if you're using a 3.x volt PT that HAS AN INLINE BATTERY you are vaping off the battery...not really the USB. Any USB device can fail. And with e-cigs, USB cord shorts seem all too frequent. However, a PT with battery only trickle charges the battery from the USB, so it can do that from a computer port. That said, why tie up a computer port with an e-cig? Why risk frying a port when a wall-wart is $5.00?
However, they also have 5 volt "direct" PTs. Those don't have a battery and draw strait from the USB connector. Too much for a computer...even without using LR (which is too hot at 5v). You can do it for a while with SR stuff on newer 3.0 ports but it's risky and could fry them. At best, the voltage will drop due to low amps and stress the heck out of the port. Now add DCC's into the mix and it's pure trouble.
The "history" part of the LR equation for many e-cigs includes (?rumored?) frying of mosfets (circuits) on the e-cig due to overamping... PT or no PT. This is rumored to be resolved with most models. However, occasional reports of premature failure of the e-cig still happen. OTOH, there's tons of users that swear they have used LR stuff on their eGo type battery for a long time and never had an issue. Others suspect that they can either fail randomly, fail based on vaping habits with LR, or fail due to an internal short when the LR atty/carto gives out. Note that this doesn't normally apply to mechanical mods (i.e. box mods with a 3.7 volt battery) since they often don't employ a mosfet and don't have much if any circuitry to fry (other than the protection circuit in the swappable battery).
This is a bit paraphrased from memory and gleaning a lot of posts. However, it should get you thinking.
Now, that said... as a generalization, if you're using a 3.x volt PT that HAS AN INLINE BATTERY you are vaping off the battery...not really the USB. Any USB device can fail. And with e-cigs, USB cord shorts seem all too frequent. However, a PT with battery only trickle charges the battery from the USB, so it can do that from a computer port. That said, why tie up a computer port with an e-cig? Why risk frying a port when a wall-wart is $5.00?
However, they also have 5 volt "direct" PTs. Those don't have a battery and draw strait from the USB connector. Too much for a computer...even without using LR (which is too hot at 5v). You can do it for a while with SR stuff on newer 3.0 ports but it's risky and could fry them. At best, the voltage will drop due to low amps and stress the heck out of the port. Now add DCC's into the mix and it's pure trouble.
The "history" part of the LR equation for many e-cigs includes (?rumored?) frying of mosfets (circuits) on the e-cig due to overamping... PT or no PT. This is rumored to be resolved with most models. However, occasional reports of premature failure of the e-cig still happen. OTOH, there's tons of users that swear they have used LR stuff on their eGo type battery for a long time and never had an issue. Others suspect that they can either fail randomly, fail based on vaping habits with LR, or fail due to an internal short when the LR atty/carto gives out. Note that this doesn't normally apply to mechanical mods (i.e. box mods with a 3.7 volt battery) since they often don't employ a mosfet and don't have much if any circuitry to fry (other than the protection circuit in the swappable battery).
This is a bit paraphrased from memory and gleaning a lot of posts. However, it should get you thinking.
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