510 spring loaded pin stuck down

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vaper1960

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The 510 spring loaded center pin on my mod tends to stick down (actually, I've had issue with this since it was new) It's a Kangertech Kbox mini. I take very good care of my mods and have never got any juice in the conncetion... it has always had this issue but now it seems worse. Any tips to get it to pop back up? Plastic toothpick, tiny scewdriver, tweezers (combination of those) What about putting a tiny drop of oil (like on the end of a toothpick) followed by some alcohol on a q-tip? I'm very handy with tool... can I take the mod apart and fix this from the inside?
 

vaper1960

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Not sure what you mean but I can feel some spring to it but it doesn't really move much... stays most of the way down. Have tried pressing on it many times to see if it will pop back up. Visually it is lower than my other mods. Didn't want to get rough with it but might try again just slightly more aggressive. It has always been like this but not as bad. Other than that issue, I love this mod.
 
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puffon

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    That mod was designed for a Subtank Mini which has a longer 510 than most tanks.
    Whenever I ran a STM on other mods I shimmed it with a spacer.
    Could be why it looks lower than other mods.
    Another option is to use one of those small o-rings on the screwdriver that came with your Lemo tank, and get it around and under the mod contact pin, which should lift the pin. (easier said than done)
     
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    HigherStateD

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    That mod was designed for a Subtank Mini which has a longer 510 than most tanks.
    Whenever I ran a STM on other mods I shimmed it with a spacer.
    Could be why it looks lower than other mods.
    Yeah, mine isn't that springy, but it is smooth. Not crunchy or catching on anything. Not a far travel. and definitely not a tall pin. Anything that wouldn't work on a hybrid mech is a no go I'm sure.

    @vaper1960 you can have mine, and the quad-flex rda I've got on it, at the very least, spare parts are good.

    @vaper1960
     

    vaper1960

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    That mod was designed for a Subtank Mini which has a longer 510 than most tanks.
    Whenever I ran a STM on other mods I shimmed it with a spacer.
    Could be why it looks lower than other mods.
    Another option is to use one of those small o-rings on the screwdriver that came with your Lemo tank, and get it around and under the mod contact pin, which should lift the pin. (easier said than done)
    That's ironic... I have a subtank mini (just got it recently... total coincidence, did not come with the mod) I noticed that too and it may be the only atty that works on this mod. Until recently, have been using Aspire Nautilus X tanks (drop-in coils) but now they wont even work. I will try the suntank mini (at least I will have one atty that works with it) None of my RTAs like it.
     

    puffon

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    That's ironic... I have a subtank mini (just got it recently... total coincidence, did not come with the mod) I noticed that too and it may be the only atty that works on this mod. Until recently, have been using Aspire Nautilus X tanks (drop-in coils) but now they wont even work. I will try the suntank mini (at least I will have one atty that works with it) None of my RTAs like it.
    Yes, try the STM. If that won't work something is fubared with the 510.
     

    UncLeJunkLe

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    From my experience with sticking spring-loaded 510s, you have one of 3 things going on...

    1) you did get juice down there (many tanks do in fact leak some juice/condensation from the 510) and over time it got gunked up and now that gunk is stopping t pin from springing back up.

    2) The insulator around/the pin is damaged enough that it prohibits the pin from moving freely.

    3) The spring or the hole 510 mechanism is simply just worn.

    For #1, the first thing you can do (and I know this is going to be controversial to some people but it has worked for me) is to put a drop of 90% or higher isopropyl alcohol on the 510, let it sit, then get a qtip and clean it out as best as you can while pushing on it repeatedly. If this seems to have fixed it, let it dry well before you fire up the mod again.

    For #2, well, not much you can do unless you have something that you can use for an insulator (this is why I save all my spent factory coil heads, those things have seals and other parts that can be used to fix stuff). I don't know what size you need, but FT has 510 insulators for eGo batteries that I have used on other mods and even 510s on tanks. This of course will require you to open the mod to see if you can then disassemble the 510 on that mod to even be able to replace the insulator. This can sometimes be done from the top of the mod without opening the mod, but not usually. If a bad insulator is your problem and you think the ones at FT might work, I can send you a couple. Of course, if the 510 cannot be disassembled, then we come to #3.

    As for #3, nothing you can do but replace the 510 or trash the mod. Fasttech has many 510 connectors. Here is my favorite one - you have to buy 2, and it's worth it at just over $3. This of course will require some drilling and soldering. But of course, which 510 you buy depends on how much room you have inside the mod. You'll have to open the mod up to see if you can even buy a 510 that will work in that mod. It may not be worth saving the mod though, only you can answer that.

    It can be done. I have done it. This was back in the day when they used brass threads on mods and it stripped so I replaced the stripped 510.

    1fv3P0C.jpg


    Here's the mod without it.
    2145601-8.jpg
     

    HigherStateD

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    When I worked at funcoland, we had this product called "foaming cleanser." It was an aerosol isopropyl alcohol spray that foamed like the bathroom cleaner.
    No joke, you could soak a nintendo, and bring it back to life after sitting in a toddlers room until they were a teenager.
    As long as it fully dries before you power it up, you could most likely clean the whole thing, if needed with alcohol.
     

    dwcraig1

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    The way the 510 is mounted in a protrusion of the body it would be fairly difficult to find a 510 socket to fit. It would also need to be affixed with screws on top. It wants to stick in place because of really sloppy tolerances between the positive pin and it's insulator then coupled with a weak spring. I've been into mine a couple of times. I would rewire it with heavier gauge wire and replace the 510 if the 510 wasn't going to be so darn difficult. I have considered replacing just the guts of the 510 but the thing seems to work OK when the pins not stuck.
     

    vaper1960

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    The Subtank Mini works fine on the mod. Used a "dental pick" tool and gently worked around the pin... BINGO... it came back up. Did not try pushing on it ( to test the spring... just happy it's working) If this happens again, I will just use the pick tool.
    BTW, getting some electronics cleaner/lube spray (for another project) It's basically alcohol and a bit of mineral oil... might use some of that and see if it helps (don't worry, I wont blast the spray in it, just use a q-tip and let some work down in, then clean the pin with alcohol after. This deserves two dancing bananas! :banana: :banana:
     

    HigherStateD

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    The Subtank Mini works fine on the mod. Used a "dental pick" tool and gently worked around the pin... BINGO... it came back up. Did not try pushing on it ( to test the spring... just happy it's working) If this happens again, I will just use the pick tool.
    BTW, getting some electronics cleaner/lube spray (for another project) It's basically alcohol and a bit of mineral oil... might use some of that and see if it helps (don't worry, I wont blast the spray in it, just use a q-tip and let some work down in, then clean the pin with alcohol after. This deserves two dancing bananas! :banana: :banana:
    :banana::rickroll::banana:


    I'd use the pick to actuate the pin a few times upside-down, to loose any grit that may be in it!
     
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