5V Regulator or DC Booster: Which is better?

[maskgeek]

In your experience, which has better performance and less battery consumption: 5V Regulator or a DC Booster?
With a 5V regulator, you need two 3V or 3.7V batteries, with a DC Booster, you only need one 3.7V battery to increase it to 5V.

 

[youfillintheblank]

YEah, wondering that too, if anyone has a part # for the booster that'd be great, I wanna try some.

 

[opuscroakus]

YEah, wondering that too, if anyone has a part # for the booster that'd be great, I wanna try some.

Here ya go. You can get free samples from TI.

Plug-in Power Modules - Non-Isolated POL - PTN04050C - TI.com

Here's the link for the 5v regulator if you need it.

Linear Regulators - Single Channel LDO - UCC383-5 - TI.com

Tried them both and I couldn't tell you the difference time wise in how long each lasted on a battery charge. I change batteries before I leave for work every day and then again when I get home. They are never below 3.2v when I change them out. This was in both a 2xAA series and parallel box mod with a 510 atty.

 

[mnealtx]

I'm waiting for some more parts to finish a booster build.

youfill - it's the PTN04050C boost converter from TI - warm up your samples account!

NB: several people that have used them (Nuck and others) recommend the capacitors to smooth out the ripple and make it more stable so that it doesn't trigger the IC on the battery.

 

[opuscroakus]

NB: several people that have used them (Nuck and others) recommend the capacitors to smooth out the ripple and make it more stable so that it doesn't trigger the IC on the battery.

Good point. I forgot to mention that. Can't find the link for the capacitors.

 

[mnealtx]

You have to 'stack' the capacitors, one of each between ground and Vin, and ground and Vout.

Digi-Key - 445-2882-ND (Manufacturer - FK26Y5V1A226Z)

Digi-Key - 495-1529-1-ND (Manufacturer - B45197A2107K409)

I bent the legs on the 22uf caps and soldered them to the pads on the 100uf caps along with the wires to attach them - NOTE: the 100uf caps ARE polarity sensitive - the side with the brown marking is positive, make sure you hook them to the board correctly.

 

[smonomo]

Thanks mnealtx,

I might have to try this, my 5volt has shut down a couple of times, although I'm weak when it comes to electronics..
Any chance, if you get the time, post a step by step, and maybe some pics?

I just received my booster from TI, there was only one in the pack, do they let you order more?

opuscroakus@

I'm about have ago at building the Booster box mod, could you set me straight on the booster connections..
Are there two black wires connecting to the atomizer, one from the right leg of the booster, and one snaking under the booster to the atomizer?...I only have one booster, I don't want to screw it up
Is the booster glued in place, or does it just sit there loose?
And would it be okay to use one battery instead of two parallel?
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[opuscroakus]

I'm about have ago at building the Booster box mod, could you set me straight on the booster connections..
Are there two black wires connecting to the atomizer, one from the right leg of the booster, and one snaking under the booster to the atomizer?...I only have one booster, I don't want to screw it up
Is the booster glued in place, or does it just sit there loose?
And would it be okay to use one battery instead of two parallel?

There is only one black wire and it coming from the booster to the atty. I initially didn't have the booster secured but hot glued it down after that pic was taken. Yes, you can use just one battery. I'm not sure how long it will last but it will definitely be longer than a stock battery and you're getting 5v instead of 3.7v.

 

[smonomo]

Thanks for help opuscroakus,

The black wire on the left that dives under the booster in the pic, where does that go or from?

Oh yeah, 5volts, you're darn tootin'!...I'm spoiled now! I'll be making a single and a parallel.

 

[opuscroakus]

Thanks for help opuscroakus,

The black wire on the left that dives under the booster in the pic, where does that go or from?

Oh yeah, 5volts, you're darn tootin'!...I'm spoiled now! I'll be making a single and a parallel.

Crap, you're right! I took the ground from the battery and the booster to the atty. And I had the box right in front of me to look at!

 

[mnealtx]

smonomo - When my parts make it in, I'll see what I can do about a walkthrough.

Connecting the capacitors together isn't hard, but it's fiddly - if you bend the legs of the 22uf capacitors, then you can solder the leg and a wire to the pad of the 100uf capacitor at the same time - that's the easiest way to do it. Don't use the very end of the legs, either - bend them to get the caps as close together as possible.

To get more of the boost converters, you have to add more types to your sample account. Be careful though - one type has the binding posts for wire attachments, and the other have solder balls for surface mount use.

 

[Basil]

great question - and answers - thanks for all the info guys

Baz

 

[smonomo]

Crap, you're right! I took the ground from the battery and the booster to the atty. And I had the box right in front of me to look at!

You scared me there for a second , I knew that black wire was heading somewhere.

Thanks, I'm good to go!

 

[smonomo]

smonomo - When my parts make it in, I'll see what I can do about a walkthrough.

Connecting the capacitors together isn't hard, but it's fiddly - if you bend the legs of the 22uf capacitors, then you can solder the leg and a wire to the pad of the 100uf capacitor at the same time - that's the easiest way to do it. Don't use the very end of the legs, either - bend them to get the caps as close together as possible.

To get more of the boost converters, you have to add more types to your sample account. Be careful though - one type has the binding posts for wire attachments, and the other have solder balls for surface mount use.

Thanks mnealtx,

I have the PTNO4050CAD it has the four posts - I only ordered one thinking it was a one pack of 5, maybe they'll let me order 4 more. There are several in the list, ending in CAD, CAH, CAS, and so on, do they all do the same job? If I have to order a different type, which would be a good one to get?

 

[mnealtx]

If you look at the "package/pins" column, the EUU models have the pins and the EUV models have the solder balls.

 

[smonomo]

Woohoo!..

off to work now on the booster box....knowing that I can confidently screw it up, it will probably turn out to be a work of art.

Thanks again mnealtx and opuscroakus

 

[Basil]

Please - a little pic "how to guide" would be much appreciated!

 

[youngunner]

I just posted this in a different thread. I made a mod box using a booster. I used the PTN0450CAH- it has the posts. At the time I only has 10440 3.7v 360mAh bats (just 1) and the negative battery spring instantly gets super hot to the point where the neg bat spring turned colors? Is it the battery im using? why does it get so hot so fast?

Also- I ordered 1 of all the 4050 booster styles- which one has the solder balls? I have one that has little green rings on the bottom of the chip (CAZ)?

 

[mnealtx]

I answered you in the other thread.

 

[Guitarslinger]

Any chance somebody could maybe post a schematic for wiring these into series and/or parallel mods? I only have a couple and really don't wanna fry 'em too bad lol. I also noticed something about these being adjustable??? If so is there anything that needs to be done with it, since I think they output up to 14V max (not absolutely sure-kinda remember that figure tho). Thanks a lot