A 4.2V pass thru?

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Java_Az

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Aswitching regulator would not get very hot at all. Nothing like the heat linear regs put off. In my avatar is a variable voltage battery charging card i had used for months to vape off of. Right now i am i am vaping off a switching reg the same one used in the evercool mod. It is hooked up always on and doesnt get over 90f with a 8 volt input voltage. Caps will help with transient response they also filter noise out which can be bad for components.
 

Java_Az

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I use 2.8 & 3.2 ohm cartos, does that put it back up around 5V's?
By the way, I really appreciate the input guys. :)

Kinda depends if you got a 2 amp adapter that was truly 1.6 amps like mine you might see a bit of a drop not too much. A true 2 amp you shouldn't see a drop at those ohms( off the top of my head no more Math for me today).
 

VpnDrgn

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I was referring to WillyB's statement that the AC adapter got warm. ( I am assuming he meant it got warm while using the PT on it )
A switching regulator would be idea, but my skill level would restrict me to one of the pre-assembled LM2596 modules.
The dropout voltage on those are 2 to 2.5V's and since I was hoping to do something with the AC adapter that would limit
me to 5V input, that would get me less than 3V output. I have ordered some parts to build a VV box mod like Mamu's, but
I thought it would be great to have something I could plug into the wall by my couch or desk. ( avoiding batts or taking risk with
USB on my comp )
 

WillyB

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I was referring to WillyB's statement that the AC adapter got warm. ( I am assuming he meant it got warm while using the PT on it )
I guess I wasn't clear. The 2000mA adapter should not be able to power a 1.5Ω atty at 3.71V. In this case (I'll double check soon) the adapter seem to actually be exceeding it's rating. Ohm's Law says ~2.5A.
 

Gx3vi

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You know what they say.....PICTURES.....or it didn't happen :)

lol ok, well it's a mess still, but hopefully you can tell what's going on with it. the switch sucks btw, that's getting replaced asap. the design idea was to have all the guts in a big box with a long cable leading to the atty. When it gets more refined I hope to have maybe a wooden handle for the battery connector to sit into with a push button to activate it, and the cable be ~2 ft long. the clear-ish box toward the top with the atty and driptip attached was an old soft pack cig case. maybe that will turn into a box mod at some point.


 

VpnDrgn

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Proof of concept doesn't have to be pretty, just has to work. :)
All the wires and switches aside, I see 2 boards in there. The big one is what, a 12V transformer ( how many amps? ) and the small
one is the adjustable regulator ( what kind? ). From what WillyB said about a drop in voltage on a longer cord, if you wanted a cord
longer than 2' it might be better to put the regulator in the box with the atty. That way the drop in voltage is before the regulator.
Would give you more accurate voltage at the atty, yes?

Puts me back in mind of one of my first thoughts of doing a VV box mod with power from a wall wart. At work I deal with commercial
grade hardware for doors and one of the electric strikes that we use is configured to be used with a little plug in 12V transformer that
has terminal posts instead of a wired in cord. I vaguely remember that it is only 1 amp though, I'll have to check tomorrow at work.

You'll have to show us more when you get it cleaned up Gx3vi, how does it vape?. Does that transformer put out heat?
 

Gx3vi

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Well it does work, so that's something. Coming from using a run of the mill eGo kit to this, being my first attempt at a mod, I think it vapes exceptionally well. Pretty sure I need some HV attys to really find the sweet spot tho. Around 4.5-5.5V with a standard 510 atty seems to do well enough for now. The big power supply is 12V I think. It was harvested from some of my neighbors random electronics parts he had laying around. The smaller board is this thing. The 12V does put out some heat but not too bad. The smaller board seems to get pretty hot tho, so I may need to replace that at some point or add more heat sinks. It's really only noticeable if I chain vape for too long. Right now I just unplug the whole unit in between sessions, but it could benefit from a on/off swith on the main cord. I think all of the issues I'm having with it are why most PV's arent built this way lol. But the end goal is to have multiple inputs for the cables leading to the atty. That way 3-4 people could sit around, plug in and vape. Thus the need for the longer cables, and I'll just have to live with the V drop. It wouldn't be vv for each person but as a whole it would be. I'm not entirely sure I can make it work that way, but that's what I'm trying to do.
 

VpnDrgn

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View attachment VV BOX MOD V2.pdf
Here is my diagram for the VV box I plan on doing based on Mamu's thread.
I designed it with a jack for charging using a 7.4V battery pack and a charger
made for charging 1-4 cell packs.

I was so focused on using the 5V chargers that we all have I had completely
forgot about 12V transformers being available.
A simple google search brought up this on amazon.
Amazon.com: Replacement AC Adapter for Asus Eee For 900, 901, 904, 1000H, 1000 Series. DC 12V Output Current: 3A (36 Watts): Electronics
Using that for a power supply and a box with this board in it aught to work.
DC-DC Converter Board regulator In:3-30V Out:1.3-18V | eBay
Just use the same design without the battery pack.

I don't know about multiple lines though. Maybe a much bigger transformer supplying
power to a bank of ports, each port with its own regulator supplying about 8.4V's to
each line. Then you could put an adjustable regulator with switch and atty in a
small box at the end of each line for each person.

I remember seeing a youtube video about using a computer power supply to
provide 12V dc power for a charger. Don't those have 3 or 4 lines supplying 12V's
each? That would even have a built in fan.
 

Gx3vi

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lol I just barely know enough electronics to keep from electrocuting myself very often. got ahold of some 110 putting my stupid thing together:facepalm: that's why it had to go into a box, to keep me from touching it. but with that caveat, your diagram looks ok to me :laugh:

And yeah I may end up needing a bigger power supply, and most likely more regulator boards. If I do that then I could make each cable vv. I kicked around the idea of using a computer power supply but didn't have one around at the time. If that's correct about them having multiple 12V lines, that might be the best option for me, thanks man.
 
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